Cubes

0.54 is the latest public release. Its purpose is to provide scans of various pfc's in order to make the real version compatible.

Yes Slide MTQ. My Bad. http://www.mtqes.com.au/Locations.htm Unsure about sonicperformance or who ever that is. I'm keen to see how these well priced (no one can argue with that) turbo's perform when pushed a little harder. And for the price if they last a good 3 or more years who cares, bl4ck32's has @ 16psi. As with the GCG items quite a few ppls have hit a wall around the 240-250rwkw mark behind manuals, I know of one GCG turbo behind an auto that has pushed 220rwkw on 14psi. Slide.... What would a BB equiv be worth? I'm guessing very close to what GCG charge?

Yes Slide MTQ. My Bad. http://www.dynamicturbo.com.au/ Unsure about sonicperformance or who ever that is. I'm keen to see how these well priced (no one can argue with that) turbo's perform when pushed a little harder. As with the GCG items quite a few ppls have hit a wall around the 240-250rwkw mark.

Brought back memorys of the ol' rb20 for a few secs there. hehe

retarded ign. = higher EGT's.

Either way.. ask a starting price of $1300 for a good condition BB stage 1 450hp GCG highflow.

Bl4ck32 has a little rb20det turbo highflow from MQT/Dynamic Turbo Chargers (been around for ~30+years). It spools within a bee's dick of the stock rb20det turbo and makes 220rwkw at 16psi. Damn good effort from such a little thing. What freaked me out intially is that its a non-bb turbo with larger turbine and comp wheels yet it spools within 200rpm of the stock rb20det turbo. Its an awesome little package. Thats been on his car now for a good 3 maybe 4 years as I knew the previous owner.

What are these new garretts at $1300?

Assuming there not adjustable?

lol... that guess was more arse than class.

So the tuner couldn't tell you what turbo was on it?

Yer I polished mine with brasso.

Its definitely ball bearing. No real idea what its worth. $500? hehe.. Try asking 1.3k?

Yep I run the R30 resistor pack. Its very closely rated to that of the GTR resistor pack, from memory the GTR resistor pack measures up at 5.8ohms vs the R30 pack at 6.3ohms. The connector the resistor pack uses is the usual motormates/sprint auto shop type that sell for around $3.95. So there is absolutely no need to grab part of the loom, simply grab an Navara 8pin plug from your local auto shop and use one half of it. I looked in to running cheap dicksmith/jaycar inline resistors but was put off after doing the watt calculations. One won't see any problems running the cheap 5w resistors running around the street but if it hits the track or sustains high rpm for long periods of time... well.. I wouldn't risk it. I then looked in to the 15-17w resistors and discovered they are mighty expensive. The rotor boys also have been known to make their own resistor packs and they most definitely do not use the cheap resistors, they use the 15-17w items, for six of these suckers you are look at slightly over $100. The rotor boys use 6.5ohms resistors, not 10ohms as the calcs would suggest. Interesting, ecu's have head room. $150 for a bran new resistor pack from nissan? They are generally $100-$150 second hand at the wreckers. And a few pics for those interested what the R30 resistor pack and plug looks like. I grabbed part of the loom before I discovered the local autoshops sell the exact same plug.

I think it would too. What power did you end up making with it on the rb20? 4.5k is not too bad. I ran a stock vg30 on my old rb20det once, that had bugger all under 4000rpm. Such a lazy turbo for bugger all power increase over stock.

The turbine housing is the larger VG30/R34 size. It must of been laggy on the ol RB20. The comp cover is from an rb20det turbo. An interesting match, small 16v comp cover with the vg30/r34 turbine housing. How did it spool on the rb20det? Al lin by 5k? As stated, its a GCG highflow, ~$1900 new. The only negative with your turbo is the small 16v comp cover.

Its ok.. I'm not worried... I know where you live. hehe.. I'll get them and they will sit on the shelf for 6months.

Thats ok Darren, I know where you live.

12psi is bugger all.. 13psi is considering pushing the turbo in my book. It all comes down to the tune and your driving style.. If I had the car at the track I wouldn't push an rb25det turbo past 9psi. On the street I would feel happy with 12psi as on the street the driving style is little squirts, no long third gear hold outs that generate lots of heat. Heat is the killer for ceramic turbo's, detonation is very nasty for them.

If you get an ecu 10psi won't be so bad, the stock ecu in the r33's is a nasty thing. I've seen close to 200rwkw being pushed on 11psi. Thats only 1psi away from 10psi.

Bu5ter is running one and has his rb30det spinning to 8500rpm. They are around 1k. I don't know alot about them but as far as I know the hp dampers are able to absorb harmonics/vibration over a greater rpm vs the std items that are tuned to a narrow rpm. http://www.atiperformanceproducts.com/prod...sting/index.htm and a couple of little links.. http://www.popularhotrodding.com/enginemas...306mm_windsor2/ http://www.atiperformanceproducts.com/prod...dampers/sae.htm This following link is especially interesting.. http://www.atiperformanceproducts.com/prod...amper_dinan.htm

Your right BezerkR32, A friend of mine tried pushing over 11psi with his R33 and ran in to a fuel cut. 10psi in an R33 is boaring, a little R32 pushing 14-15psi with only an fmic and exhaust whoops its arse.

yes 3k sucks.. get bugger all, only 'just' wet your lips so to speak. Silver gtst.. damn you've had that freaky pic of your self in your avtar for so damn long now.

lol.. 10kw my arse. I've had mine on the dyno running 1bar back to back with the stock airbox/panel and a K&N filter sticking up in the cool air from the fan. There was a big fat ZERO rwkw difference from idle to peak power. Unless its making some decent numbers (200rwkw+) the stock air box is fine. Pods and intake mods are the worse bang for buck mod one can do on the skyline. The real bang for buck is to concentrate in the following order. 1. Exhaust 2. Up the Boost 3. FMIC & up the boost some more. 4. PowerFC 6. Drop a nice panel filter in to your airbox 7. Bolt a bigger turbo on, then most definitely look at improving intake airflow. I may have forgot something as I'm as tired as all buggery.

I'll dig up of an old thread.. What did you end up doing with the motor? My bet is on the usual ring lands due to detonation. Without labour my bottom end with forgy's cost me $3.7k, it was a little on the cheaper side for what I got as we had 2 motors done at the same time so worked out a nicer price.