Cubes

CEF11E, Interesting... I do remember when I had my bosch pump installed when I first bought my car (4years ago) the tuner said the bosch 044 pumps sometimes cause issues with the stock fuel pressure regs. I had a 910 installed as back then it was 'only 200rwkw' that I was after.

No personal attacks ppls. There's been enough of it in this section in recent times. Sick of it.

On the node servers your allowed to attack an uncapable flag but with only kit weapons. So.. if your commander thats no arty and what not, if your in a vehicle or plane no attacking. Node's admins suck, they enforce it on one map then don't on another. A good example of this is the good old wake. I've been banned once. I heard of one bloke that bought 2 copies of the game and his son was stat paddling with his sons copy, node banned that cdkey so his son jumped on with his old mans cdkey and that too got banned. He's pretty damn pissed as they won't lift the ban. On nodes servers the admins appear to lack consistency.

Mine used to be a pain in the arse to start in the mornings on the stock ecu. The same as you describe. I do have a bosch pump and I can't remember if it did it when the pump wasn't installed. Powerfc sorted that issue out for me. On the stock ecu I also had a little idle hunt. I can replicate the bad starts with the powerfc by pulling out some of the cranking ms at cold start temperatures.

I wouldn't feel completely safe running around with yours Mad, afr's are obviously on the 'edge' definitely not something the thread OP wants. Dirty fuel filter = leaner again, fuel pump that decides no more = leaner again. Definitely not safe. Have yours tuned with safe afr's and you will most likely find your back down with the rest of them, 190-200rwkw. BUT you WILL pick up mid range and off boost power. On your dyno that may make it look like yours has more mid range over others, jump on another and it will be the same as the others. So sure 200rwkw 'can' be done with a select few R33's with ecu's that don't freak out and R&R all over the place. Generally series 1.5, well I knew of one R33 Series 1.5 that was a freak and cracked 200rwkw, I know of 4 others that had fuel cuts and R&R topping out at 178rwkw. So not everything is equal. I think you will find its generally not the tuner that gets low power out puts its the variables involved. Engine condition, turbo type (series 1, 2 etc), how the car is tyed down, inlet temp sensor position and finally how the dyno reads. Its not uncommon to have a dyno read 10rwkw different. With regards to pauls strange top end, thats not a tuning issue, its most likely something stupid. Have you found out why it was doing that yet Paul?

I believe he is refering to yours Paulr33, ---------- So pauls appears to have a problem with the top end reading flat then... Compare it to something else.. Maybe this one I've attached that obviously doesn't have something strange going on with a flat top end. Comparing dyno's is silly unless its on the same day same dyno, same fuel, same operator same person tying the car down.

I have an issue with either a lifter or spring that has gone a little daggy. At high rpm and higher boost levels one of the cylinders begin missing, power goes flat, it then runs on 4 or 5 until the lifter bleeds down. I'm throwing new springs in to it and will be checking out the lifters also. There's also another issue with it... Occasionally (blue moon) on cold starts it runs on 4 or 5 for 30 seconds or so then smooths out, exactly same sound and feel as when the lifter pumps up at high rpm/higher boost levels. 'Maybe' one of my lifters are a little sticky and not bleeding down or something.. nfi but will get to the bottom of it soon.

Yes Toluene is pretty damn nasty... I'll stick with the diesel and kero. I've never had any dealings with lifters before. How are they supposed to feel? I'm assuming they are supposed to pump in and out easily, I have a 8 that are nice and free where as some of the other move a little and some are completely stuck.

People have pushed the std rb25 injectors as far as 250rwkw. 200rwkw is fine on std pressure.. If you want much more then you should start looking at fuel pressure to lower the duty cycle. The exact figure.. It all depend on the dyno.

Whats your 33 look like Nozilla? Post a pic. I'm keen to see what they have been harassing you for.

You said you blew them out? Maybe pumped air in to them? I have a set of lifters soaking in diesel and appears to have really pulled quite a bit of crap out of them, the little hole on the top and side I can see a little stream of black crud. One of the 24 lifters felt as if it was a little stuck so it will be interesting if it fix's it or not. I'll give the kero a go. I had thought about heading down to bunnings and picking up some toluene for the clean.

I've decided to do a little googling to see what I can find on the topic. First a wiki.. Taller gearing reduces pumping losses as it requires you to crack open that throttle a little more while using a lower rpm. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fuel_saving_devices Then a little from BMW http://www.greencar.com/index.cfm?content=topstory3 All though not really that clear.. http://www.insightcentral.net/KB/faq-efficiency.html and then there's this which pretty much sums it up. Which is pumping losses. http://www.ecodrive.org/newdriving/easytolearn.html Bed time.

psybic, So basically.. shift as early as posible (2.5k) with a steady right foot, don't hold gears out with super light throttle as it increases pumping and friction losses. Read the traffic - lots of deceleration in gear (fuel cut), no warm ups just get in and drive it normally. Maintenance. My injectors are spot on (when they weren't i was getting 350km's to a tank no matter what) Nice tune that runs stoich when off boost No vacuum leaks Motors in good nick *unsure how the rb26 cam specs affect fuel economy* I run rb25 cams with around 10degree's overlap, so similiar overlap to the gtr cams, similiar IVO. EVO is different. So it shouldn't be too far off. As stated there is very little difference in economy when it comes to the two driving styles, But one does offer a little better than the other. Say it is 15km's to a tank thats for example from 12L/100km's down to 11.5L/100kms. Combine this with a good driving style, motor and sensors that are in 100% perfect working order with squirters that atomize fuel and there's no reason why a modified rb can't return factory like fuel figures. I do admit I drive like a granny the majority of the time as I usually have my little 15month old rugrat in the car and boy is he starting to become a little rugrat allright. Its possible but there does appear to be a LOT of rb25's that return terrible economy no matter what.

The point is to get the most out of what we have... Mine returns a nice 10.6-11L/100km's.. 3ltr.. I'm happy. Can't get much better than that unless you pick up a little buzz box.

These cars are getting old, its always wise to replace the fuel pump with a new item (aftermarket bosch or walbro) when pushing it to the edge. Wouldn't want that fuel pump to get lazy 6months or so after a tune, lean out then wonder why you've smashed a few ring lands.

You are right as gentle acceleration will give you good results. Say we have two identical cars accelerating at the same 'normal' rate, one uses more throttle less rpm to do so, the other uses less throttle more rpm. The less throttle higher rpm WILL use a bee's dick more fuel, why? 1. Higher pumping losses 2. Higher internal engine friction hence losses Direct injection.

~200rwkw the std injectors are pretty close to max'd out, unless you pump some fuel pressure in to them. There's really 2 parts of the equation.. 1. A bit of luck 2. The tuning. Some turbo's let go on stock boost, some are fine on 13psi for years others let go at 11psi. But I strongly believe it all comes down to the tuning and maintance. One who is a little more in tune with their car is going to pick up on slight det from possibly a bad batch of fuel, dirty fuel filter, clagged injector or old fuel pump and is much more likely to have their turbo last much longer. I didn't just put a pod filter in replace of the std air box.. The pod filter was held in to the stream of nice cool ambient air so there was ZERO hot air entering the pod. There was a zero power increase. Due to the nature of turbo's they are much less likely to see power improvements when opening up the airbox at stock power levels, N/A on the other hand......... How did you place the IAT sensor when you did your back to back as this may very well could have caused your interesting reading? I should also add I ran without any filter on the end of the maf and once again the power result was a zero increase, not that it is relevant to the thread.

As I would expect a 3ltr running a small stock sized turbo. Cubes = torque but lack of rev's if you don't get it breathing via a nice exh. manifold, cams and suitable turbo that can keep up.

GTaaargh, RE: Post 20. Drop the rev's open up that throttle a little more to reduce pumping losses and it will return better fuel economy than the opposite. Thats providing the fuel map isn't tuned as such that afr's go way rich doing so.

Gas stove is good enough to bring them up to temp?

Sorry Sk, I did get a little carried away, just a bad hair day. A performance and response comparison I believe would be awesome. I don't believe Slide offers a single off the shelf highflow, he offers a few different combinations based on what the customer whats out of the turbo, if its an auto/manual etc. Then there's to boost question; Wind as much boost in to it until it stops making power?

What a lot appear to be overlooking is that the slide turbo's are not aimed at the same customer as the gcg highflows. They are at different price points. A lot people that buy these slide turbo's would simply not upgrade if it meant they had to pay 2k for a turbo. For a $400 or so over a stock item or if buying from the wreckers @ the same price one is most likely to go the slide upgrade route.

One little tip as I've learnt the hard way. Attempt to avoid the pump shops. Take the car to enthuaist crash shops/spray painters. Look for nice cars in the parking lot not commodores/falcoons. If there's no leaks and everything looks ok drive it and get quotes. I'm assuming its under insurance?

I'd do it he may be able to shed a little light as to why its not quite up there.. None the less... Impressive its held the power, now to get to the bottom of getting it to make more.

My o2 sensor was fine as far as I know, it was returning really good fuel economy before the injectors went daggy. So that was on Graham Wests Dyno. What was yours on there for just a check up or? Once when I was at Graham Wests he did mention that the dynologs read a little lower than the others. The run was finished at 6500rpm, so it held that power perfectly to 6500rpm? Thats not to bad really.. As for the low power.. It doesn't make sense, even with the vg30 it was down on top end power. One last.. what did Graham charge for a power run?