Cubes

My only concern with aftermarket suspension arms is the issue it may cause over the pits or insurance should one have an accident. For offroad use.. fine. unless these items have been approved? Grab the whiteline items, you can't go wrong.

If your current ones are buggered yes.

Thats a pretty damn good price for a pair. What are DBA's? I remember they were around that for one.

Don't go to pedders... Drop through a whiteline distrubutor.. Bridgestone tyre centers usually do whiteline gear.

It will probably be ok but not that wise to have kinks in the oil drain hose. The turbo bearings whip the oil in to a froth, this is why there is such a large drain hose.

Compare simply compares the map you select against the map that is currently loaded.

Mine gets to operating temp within a couple of minutes, or to be exact if I simply start and drive off slowly 2kms. Sit it idling and it takes for ever. With regards to the rb26 ign map, the first 6 load cells (verticle) are the same as the rb25's first 8 load cells. The rb26 has less resolution due to a higher total airflow hence power capability. At light cruise the rb26 ign. map appears to run stuff all ignition, unsure why this is, however at light usual traffic accelerating loads the rb26 map is pretty much the same, at higher rpms over 3000rpm the rb26 map runs a little more ignition.

When I had the stock ecu on the rb30det I had a small power run done. It pinged as 3psi and 13:1 afr approached, ign. timing went from 28degree's to 18degree's and the afr dropped went half a point richer, it then recovered and the afr went back up to 13:1 until 5.5psi, it then dropped quickly to 11.2:1. This was on blackwood auto & dyno's dyno as they had the little gizmo to connect to the consult port. Interesting the stock ecu was holding 13:1 until ~5.5psi.

Nothing wrong with 150psi odd. It was probably just the other bloke guage and or didn't give it wide open throttle. or... maybe he wanted to rebuild your perfectly fine engine.

Awesome research Geoff. Some solid facts instead my observations + a little theory resulting in a conclusion.

The skyline ecu's are not like some others, they don't learn where knock occurs. They simply detect knock then pulling timing and dump a little fuel in.

Which dyno sheet is the latest? Still 240rwkw?

Awesome.. Well throw it on the dyno to ensure its not leaning out and let us see the new power curve, average power was impressive before now.. well..

Yes for such a low level, but it may just be the guage. Which is why the general rule is to go off variation. Cam timing could also be out, maybe rebuilt some time with lower comp pistons, thicker headgasket.. Could be a number of things. My Rb20DET with std cam timing saw 145psi in all cylinders, that was at 60,000km's. Cam timing does make a difference to the comp ratio.

Octane booster does raise octane level ever so slightly. If you throw in 95ron and drop a bottle of octane booster in it it still won't be as good as 98ron. With the bottle it only raises slightly, some not even a full point. So its simple... Run 98RON octane fuel, its only $5 extra per tank. Be sure you don't drop 95ron fuel it as its a waste of money.

I tested mine when dropping the new injectors in, it runs wiseco forged pistons that have been setup on the looser side so they do slap a tad when cold. When I finally got around to testing the comp ratio the motor had done around 20,000km's, wasn't using any oil. To my suprise ALL cylinders were equal apart from cylinder 3 that read 1psi different. I got 153psi or there abouts I don't remember exactly but it was around the mid 150's. So when warm and the pistons fill the bore a little better no doubt I will receive a higher reading. So yes, equal values in every cylinder is possible.

I'm most likely biased as I used to have a little VS 5ltr that would lope over nicely on idle. 3.5" exhaust it really did sound awesome, almost race/v8 supercar type as it approached 6000rpm. Yours sounds fine though Chops, I think its when they run open pipes on the LS1's they tend to sound a little.. strange.

All the later model VG30DET turbine housings I've seen have OP6 stamped on the housing, as the R34 turbine housings do. Its most likely an earlier vg30 turbine housing. One things for sure it does appear to be bigger than the vg30/r34 turbine housings, so if they could use it it would open up the top end a little more. EDIT: Ahh there we go.. that will teach me for not reading all the posts before posting.

How will you be activating the VCT?

Interesting result, still appears to hold power well to redline. Does it feel as if it wants to rev to 6.5k still? Next time your down at your new tuner have him give it a quick power run in SHOOT6 or SHOOT6F mode. Most likely you will see a small increase in power. It will then be comparable to the last one done on SST's.

The engine sound... for some reason the LS1's have never done it for me.

I've noticed this also when I gapped a set down, which is why until now I've avoided gapping down.

Up is up... the way they sit in the motor. I'm going to poke wire in both holes and see which one makes it work. lol

Yer it is out of line but here in Adelaide for some reason they all hire young blokes that have just dropped out of school. But they machines etc are all top notch. So its a matter of finding one that has non-thrasher looking ppls working.

Even a little more interesting Boostworx appear to always run in SHOOT6 mode. Basically the lower the mode the longer it takes to complete a power run and the higher chance of wheel spin. From what I've noticed Shaun doesn't appear to have any issues with wheel spin, I'm assuming he ties it down hard. Both (lesser shootout mode & tied down harder) of which is why his dyno most likely reads a tad lower than the rest (apart from Blackwood that appear to return near identical figures).