Cubes

After buzzing around a little it appears the BKR7E-11's are easy to get just not the pregapped 0.8mm's.

Nope.. They don't.

Not even 600hp at the flywheel as that in its self is still GT35R territory if a GT3040r can only crack 580hp with mid 20psi a .82, big cams, lots of head work etc.

Clint was running the .82 GT3040. It went on to make 338rwkw on a dyno dynamic once the motor was in the car. So quite a drive train loss, didn't really add up to me but its only a figure, but still its considerably higher than I've ever seen from the GT3040. No doubt running some nice fuel, it was running a Motec M800

I'm convinced its EGT due to empirical evidence, no need to convince me.

I gave them a buzz as Im going to throw in a set of 7's in a couple of weeks. Unfortunately they don't have the BCPR7E/BCPR7E-11 or BKR7E/BKR7E-11 listed, the BCPR6E's are. Bugger.. EDIT: And a couple pics of the BCPR6E that have done 30,000km's. They were still running fine in the car but you can see they were on their way out as the electrode is well and truley rounded. No octane boosters and the like only ever BP98.

Is it a series 1 or 2. If its a series 1 grab an R33 RB26 crank, possibly rb26 rods and pistons. If thats not an option then be sure you throw an oil pump drive collar on the stock crank as to prevent future oil pump breakage. If you can't find an R33 RB26 crank be sure to throw the crank collar on an R32 rb26 crank. At least with a set of stock rb26 rods you can feel safe pushing up to 400rwkw. The RB26 crank gives you a little more displacement, throw that together with 87mm pistons and you have 2628cc vs the rb25's standard of 2498cc. There's one bloke that recently used an RB26 block, std rb30 crank that has been destroked, rb26 rods and custom pistons for 2.9ltrs all within the std rb26 block. Allthough the r/s ratio isn't ideal it is holding together at around 400rwkw if I remember correctly. So thats another option to discuss with your engine builder, see what he thinks.

A 'genuine' 600hp isn't possible unless its a GT35r. A GT3040 got close on an Rb25 here in SA, it had the works on, on the engine dyno with mid 20psi something it made 580hp at the fly.

They are.. I've been running them since they were called BCPR6EY. Around 2-3years ago for some reason they dropped the Y. So in total including the Y's I have been running them since I bought the car 4.5yrs ago. I have an old spark plug laying around somewhere, I'll grab a pic of it and post her up. But as I said the only place that stocks them is Motortraders, specifically Motortraders at Edwardstown. The BCPR6E-11's appear to be a little more abundant. Here's a quick google result. http://www.overboost.com/obs/hin/product.a...name=Sparkplugs and this from an old NGK link. http://66.102.7.104/search?q=cache:sSDfG7y...lient=firefox-a

Redline is a little bit of a rip for what it contains (oil analysis reveals all) Motul's top end stuff is a much better bargain vs redline.

This really hurts to see such bad fuel economy.... The 33 must be like a brick passing through the wind compared to the 32 as I know of so many 32's returning over 400km's to a tank of of juice (~50L) Even the 3ltrs (mine, bl4ck32's and rbmans returns over 400km's per tank. Unless you drive damn hard all the time it should not be returning under 400km's.

Do remember any light that is emitted from your headlamps that is not white you can be defected for.

Autobarn have cheaper oil than supercheap.

Thats 1k for a set of 24. Grab a solid kit from nengun for almost half that.

With regards to the V-Power. They are a little difficult to get here in SA but I have found Motortraders stock the BCPR6E. The BCPR6E are the V-power/groove plug. I believe they dropped the Y. From memory a set of 6 from Motortraders is around $17. Don't bother with supercrap they wanted 3x the price. Dirt Cheap.

I've got a rb20det turbo laying around but not willing to waste it on this experiment, as I don't feel ceramic turbines fail from wheel speed alone.

Buy some from UAS and return them as the ones you bought from nissan. If thats possible.

Yes my bad.. I missed the F. I did a quick google and found this interesting post over at the ford forums Which is similiar to what we experienced at the dyno day some time ago.

wow.. expensive. UAS have them for $45. Unsure if they are genuine.

Shootout81 what a load of crap.. Have it run it in the correct shootout mode as 'SHOOT81' reads around 20-30rwkw higher than SHOOT6. That pulls the power level back down to being close to reasonable. This was shown at a recent dyno day when all cars were being run in SHOOT6F mode, a ls1 jumped on and made no where near as much power as it did on Donnan's dyno, Shaun then dropped it in to SHOOT81 and it instantly made another 30rwkw or so.

Hi ppls, I'm playing around with an engine simulator again. I'm curious as to what gains you have had when running adj. cam gears and what values you usedon the inlet and exh? From what I can tell it appears the inlet is pretty much spot on and there are only small gains had by fiddling with the exh cam. Let me know what you have done and if it corresponds with my vague findings.

Thanks. What did u end up getting them for? The usual $45 odd?

Call a wrecker and ask what a complete rear subframe is worth minus the diff or just replace what is bent. Sydneykids suspension kit is simply shocks and springs, bushes etc. The reason your wheel will be bunged out is possibly a bent suspension arm of some sort.

Security, How did the new lifter feel? Were you able to push it in and out? I have roughly half of a set of 24 lifters that are able to squeeze in and out freely, others some are simply solid and a few are able to move slightly. My old man said his ol HQ hydraulic lifters were solid and that you shouldn't be able to squeeze them in and out.

Yer I wouldn't be doing it for power as they don't increase power. Eventually stock coils let go... If I can get something for them while they are working perfectly fine why not.