Cubes

Thats interesting... I found the BOV/Turbo was much much quieter coming on and once on boost with the psshhtt noise being the same volume but just slightly different. So yer what your probably experiecing is a quieter spool then when it does go psshhtt you hear it, where as before there was always a bit of noise so maybe the pshht was as much of a difference in volume. I put mine back to standard as it affected drivability through the hills.

If its blowing oil smoke *not condensation* when starting or after sitting idling and giving it a quick rev its a sign of valve stem seals, it is very possible and has been known for them to be damaged when during a head reco process. My plugs were clean and the oil never smelt like fuel. I did multiple oil/filter changes within the first 1000kms. It did use a little oil until around 4,000km's after that it hasn't used a drop, I've now done 40,000km's.

Yer its not too bad down this way, head a little more south (Moana way) or North (city way) and you do get a few more looks. We were driving from Payneham the other night, My R32 is completely stock looking, its really difficult to see the fmic even, my other half spotted a young lady cop rubber knecking as they drove past... load of crap really, but nothing that can be done. Keep it looking stock with good tyres, not lowered, no big milo tins, drive sensibly (as not to earn a rep as they do spot ppls driving spiritedly and chase them down later to harasse) As an interesting note.. My other half was talking to a cop that came in to her work some time ago, they got on to the topic of cars so she asked him if they 'really' pick on imports, he replied by generalising all import drivers are hoons and we pull them over for a look if they are 1. Lowered and 2. run a big shinny exhaust that look like milo tins. Exact words.

What power are you expecting/hoping for?

With regards to the idler.. When I built my motor up Nissan wanted something silly for the idler, instead I opted for 2 tensioners. The nissan RB tensioners are locking tensioners so once locked it acts the same as an idler. RB30 tensioners from holden also do the trick, they were cheaper than nissan, if I remember correctly around $80 each.

So what are they meant to measure? I had a quick look at the link provided but nothing stood out, it was only a quick look. With regards to the BKR7E group buy, I'll see what I can sort out but it will have to be after wednesday when I start looking.

Thats providing VE is the same, yes.

Motor traders/Coventry's keep the BCPR6E, they are a 0.8mm v-power plug. Last time I bought a set 6 totalled to ~$17. I usually keep them in for up to 30,000km's, by then they are pretty well stuffed but not affecting the cars performance in a seat of the pance way. Up from there depending on the power being made the only option is BKR7E, they are a tad harder to get, here in Adelaide Motor Mates keep them, but for $4 per plug. Be sure to shop around as supercrap were extremely expensive for the copper bcpr6e plugs. Complete joke really.

Cheapish timing lights will do this. 'sometimes' it will read correctly if they double loop the coil 1 wire located at the ignitor. Providing its a s1.

Do tell me where.. As you know I'm in Adelaide also.

I would assume so.

Yer that sounds like the plug for the sensor... A little male type round plug. It pushes on with a little force due tothe o-ring and you then turn it slightly to lock it in.

Its not just the round plug that kind of screws in to the knock sensor? Or is there clearly a big arsed sensor hanging down? With regards to the oil pressure sender... I've seen a few different colours, red, yellow and blue. I have a blue one. I've attached a picture of the drivers side of the motor. You can see the knock sensors as they have a little green lug. This is very close to the starter motor. The plugs are obviously a nice little round plug that kind of screws on. The motor obviously had a tad blowby, as you can see the oil stained the center 3 ports slightly, this would indicate the center 3 ports receive a tad more air than the front and rear. I guess this could relate to the plenum flow thread.

Both knock sensors plugged in?

Stock the R33 is quicker than the 32. Up the boost to the usual 11psi with an fmic on the r33 and up the boost to the usual 1bar on the r32 and the R32 is quicker than the r33. The downfall for the R33 once one starts to up the boost is the r33 ecu's really do suck. Well mine was, also had ever so slightly more accleration (very very very slowly walking away) from a 100% stock R33 GTR. 0-100 in 5.2secs and 175km/h in high 13 seconds. I have seen one freak R33 that with 11psi, exhaust and simply bolting on a fmic made ~200rwkw, it went on to run a low 13sec 1/4.

I would tend to disagree. The 2.6ltr due to its displacement is well and truly behind when it comes to N/A tuning. The larger capacity motor will always make the power more reliably and much easier. An engine is nothing more than an airpump. A 2.6ltr at 10,000rpm is pumping the same amount of air as a 4ltr at 6500rpm. A 4ltr at 7150rpm pumps the same amount of air as a 2.6ltr at 11,000rpm. So as you can see its going to be much harder to get the 2.6ltr going as hard as something like a 4ltr. Now consider this.. A 2.6ltr at 9000rpm which may be reasonable will pump the same amount of air as an 3ltr (rb30) at 7800rpm. 7800rpm out of an rb30 with a ati balancer and oil pump drive colar is possible, all it needs is a nice plenum, exhaust, big big cams and it should be possible.

Only if the suspension and camber is setup incorrectly to start off with. Stock like soft on the rear is good.

Bugger... Catch cans are illegal as are turbo timers. Is the car lowered? They may pick this also. Zip the car to your local tyre center and have then check all the bushes. They tend to pick stuffed bushes on these older imports. The night prior to having the car inspected be sure to give it a real good clean in the engine bay around the powersteer as to remove any seeping pwr steer hoses, as almost all r32's I've seen have seeping pwr steer hoses.

You won't be limiting boost, a turbo that comes on around 4.5k on an rb25 will come on just before 4k on the 3ltr. First gear will be useless not because of the lack of traction but the lack of real boost, second will be a little better but still the turbo won't be able to really spool up hard and start moving some air, but third is where it will be at. Aim for what I say and you won't dissapoint your self. Your spool threshold appears to be slightly worse than what a GT35r 1.06 *cough high 300rwkw capable cough* is. Run 3.7:1 diff gears may help bring the turbo on song a little better in the lower gears.

Ahh well picked up some oil for a nice price, they ran out of z145a pureone oil filters though. Suprisingly every one was well behaved, the line up to get in was outside the door and around the carpark. I waited ~30mins, wasn't too bad. It was interesting to note who the hoons actually were, 80% were 90model commodores and falcoons the others were silvia's and a cefiro or two. and that nasty buick v6 scream... almost made my ears bleed.

Yer mines kinked slightly.. I've been meaning to fix it.. since umm the motor went in. lol Haven't seen much of you lately stocky.. Hows yours up and running?

I was talking to a mate who has a set of slotted rotors on the front of his R32. He mentioned he had a set of DBA's or something where the slots were straight, he said when jumping on the brakes really hard at the end of Mallala straight.you could feel the slots pulsate/vibrate a tad. He ended up getting a set of std rotors and had them slotted with curved slots, now he has nice smooth braking. For the price of RDA's.. straight slots.. I care less. Bit of a wank factor every time you feel the 'slots' lol.

Yer it will be a bit of a hassle with the hoons leaving. Stuff it I don't care, will have the bubs in the car. If they try to harasse me I'll fart. I had baked beans tonight for tea. That will fix em'.

So who's going to be there? I'm heading down.