Cubes

Thats definitely some bad tyre wear.. All though not as bad as my old VS 5ltr that had IRS and lowered on bilstein gear. The first set of tyres only lasted 5,000km's, the outside was like new, the inside was like yours. I was very pissed.

I like this idea.

GRIM_R32, If they ask to see the car simply say its in parts in the shed then state some one has a grudge against you as they have spiked tyres and scratched your car in the drive way.

I agree they are friggin huge. realistically these cars are getting damn old. God knows how many kays some of them have 'really' done. By the look of certian wear many 60-80,000km R32's a few years back have really done 200,000+ km's.

I've been meaning to get one for some time.. They are cheap enough.

OMG... Damn you have some bad luck. Any wiring damaged? Wasn't the turbo that burnt the wiring as a result catching fire?

I've always used the BP/carlovers degreaser and high pressure rinse. There's no need to really hammer the cam covers as they really only get a little dirt on them. I've never had a problem in 4.5yrs, but as I said I don't 'flood' the cam covers. Then dry it as the water tends to leave white marks.

Member Guidelines Please refer to following regarding SAU Member Guidelines < SAU Guidelines > Moderators and Admin Guidelines. If we step out of line then by all means tell us! Always PM the thread starter if you are going to move/delete a thread. Never totally delete a thread unless requested to do so by the thread starter. Move it to \"Moved\". Of course if it's just a test post, duplicate etc. it's OK to delete. If unsure of a thread's appropriateness (is that a word?) move it to \"Moved\" and discuss it in the Mod section. You can always move it back if required. Be sure to treat all board members fairly and equally (Regardless of what they drive!) Do not disobey the forum rules because you are a moderator. If you need to edit/delete a single post, edit the post and write in RED. Write in the post that it has been removed for whatever reason and use the “Warn xxxx” button at the top of the post to both notify the user, and to make a record of them being notified of the mistake. If you remove multiple posts from a thread, leave a little note rather than sending 15+ PM's. Use the “warn xxx” button once per thread only. Keep threads in the correct sections - pm the thread starter if you feel it is neccassary when moving a thread. Make sure to leave a redirect. Don't make your own items for sale 'sticky'!!! Try to keep post whoring down in the 'FOR SALE' section. If there are replies complaining about the price, remove them and PM the poster, refering them to the 'FOR SALE' guidelines. Anything that is not on topic is to be removed. If you are unsure about the content of a thread, move it to the moderators section, and if need be, it can be restored to its original position once it has been assessed. All threads promoting illegal street racing are to be locked ASAP Please make sure to read the Mod’s section at least weekly to keep up to date with any changes. If you are unsure, then ask. Common sense is the main factor here.

I am compiling a list of wreckers in Adelaide to help us all receive the best possible price on parts. I have found shopping around can save you a good 200-300 maybe more on some parts. If you believe a wrecker listed is not worthy due to bad customer service please PM me and explain the situation, I will then decide to pull it down or not. This thread is locked, please PM me to add a wrecker to the list. -------------------- Import Spares, 8266-0212 2 Sleaford Road, Windsor Gardens http://www.japaneseimportspares.com.au/ Adelaide Imported Parts Plus, 8283-1747 Unit 1 / 25 Nylex Avenue, Salisbury South http://www.importedparts.com.au Adelaide Jap Dismantlers, 8369-1156 19 Jacobsen Crescent, Holden Hill http://www.adelaidejap.com.au Autotech Imports, 8349-9334 84-86 Churchhill Road North, Dry Creek http://www.autotechimports.com.au Japanese Motorsport, 8363-5555 114 Magill Road, Norwood http://www.japanesemotorsport.com.au Japco Auto Wholesalers, 8347-3599 463 Torrens Rd Woodville Park 5011 http://www.japco.com.au Jaustec, 8266-7244 13 Jacobsen Crescent, Holden Hill SA 5088 http://www.jaustech.com.au Nisswreck, 8347-0111 59 South Tce, Wingfield http://www.nisswreck.com.au For the wreckers that have multiple 'sensible' complaints and as a result are not recommended please drop me a private message.

I am compiling a list of workshops in Adelaide to help us all receive the best possible price and quality of service. Please ring them all, get quotes, ask your friends and make an informed decision for who you should choose to work on your pride and joy. If you believe a workshop listed is not worthy due to bad customer service please PM me and explain the situation, I will then decide to pull it down or not. This thread is locked, please PM me to add a workshop to the list. -------------------- Import Performance Tuning Workshops WILLALL RACING Cnr Wilkins Rd & Browning St GILLMAN PH: 08 8341 0400 AM Performance Andrew - 0401 865 373 Boost Worx, 8299-0621 U8 8-12 William Street, Cavan PH: 8260 5566 http://www.boostworx.com.au [email protected] Southern HiTech Dyno Tune 8 Emanuel Crt, Melrose Park SA 5039 (08) 8277 4400 Fax (08) 8277 4422 [email protected] BDT Performance, 8370-3450 2 Stirling Road, Blackwood http://www.bdtperformance.com.au Dyno Tuning Available Graham West Workshop, 8277-5688 668 Marion Road, Park Holme Dyno Tuning Available Mildren Race Engineering, 8443-8299 19 Phillips Street, Thebarton http://www.mildrens.com.au Dyno Tuning Available Morpowa Performance Specialists, 8264-2077 14 Famechon Cresent, Modbury North http://www.morpowa.com.au Dyno Tuning Available SA Performance and Service Centre Unit 2/19-21 Thomas St Cavan, 5094 Ph 8262 9785 email: [email protected] Horse Power Innovations PH: 0408836384 Fours N More Automotive 5 Langford Ct, Pooraka (08) 82602011 General mechanics work, engine conversions, dyno tuning etc -------------------- Exhaust Specialists Everlast Mufflers, 8396-3255 31 Golden Grove Road, Ridgehaven http://www.everlastmufflers.com.au All your exhaust needs Exhaust Technology 253 Goodwood Rd, Kings Park SA 5034 PH: 8272 7500-------------------- Paint & Body Pro Finish Custom Paint 2/20 Famechon Cr, Modbury North Joe - 0411234992 All Type Crash 1395 Main North Road, Para Hills West PH: 8281 0130 Edwardstown Custom Body Repairs 21 Bennet Ave, Melrose Park PH: 8277 8887‎ -------------------- Alarm & Audio Installation GT Autosound - www.gtautosound.com 34A Sunbeam Road, Glynde 83655455 Auto Perfection - www.autoperfection.com.au 281 Main North Road, Enfield 83426644 Marvey Tech - www.marveytech.com Unit 2/14 Famechon Crescent, Modbury North 83965550 / 0405702292 Ministry of Bass - www.ministryofbass.com.au 1205 South Road, St Marys 82768668 -------------------- Misc Adelaide Belt & Hose Distributors, 8371-1699 29 Croydon Road, Keswick http://www.beltandhose.com.au For all your hose needs Captain Thread MOB : 0407 077 414 All Clutch and Brake Service, 8277-8122 3 Pinn Street, St Mary's http://www.allclutchandbrake.com.au Aftermarket Clutch master/slave cylinders, brake master and calliper overhauls Silicon Intake Systems Online http://www.siliconeintakes.com/ Well priced silicon and tbolt clamps in any colour size or shape you want Fitch The Rubber Man, 8346-5193 2 George St, Hindmarsh Top quality hoses but a tinny little bit more expensive. Definitely worth it! TXS Silicon, (02) 9987-0395 Online or Phone Order http://www.txs.com.au Very well Priced Silicon Hoses & Accessories not to mention great variety Cliffdales Pty Ltd 97 Mullers Rd. Hampstead Gardens G R H Supplies, 8243 0944 (clamps including t-bolts/worms and tools) 167-169 South Terrace, Wingfield C+A Developements Hydraulic Engineering Race car fabrication Ph. 08 8264 0844 fax. 08 8395 29 Here is a list of vehicles they can do http://raws.dotars.g...ALE%20PTY%20LTD Sleeka Spares 5 Langford Ct, Pooraka (08) 83596446 http://www.sleekaspares.com.au/ Performance Parts & Accessories Helps Metalwork 4/48 Morrow Rd, Lonsdale 0415153163 http://www.helpsmetalwork.com/ Automotive Engineering & Fabrication

If you fit an ati balancer and ensure you fit the full oil pump crank drive the rb30's flick to 8500rpm odd. Which is well within a reliable valve train, much more and the valve train begins costing big $. With regards to how quick the 3ltr rev's, I find the 3ltr free rev most definitely flicks through the rev's a lot quicker than my old rb20, a mates rb25 and one rb26 i've seen. The rb20/25 and 26's rev up a little dougy sounding compared to the crisper sounding rb30. My rb30 is running lighter than factory forged pistons so it may be so that the lighter piston makes up for the slightly heavier longer rb30 rod. Once on boost the 3ltr will rev quicker due to greater torque. Listening to Sky30's on the dyno is a testament to this, the rev's once boost came on simply flicked and sound awesome, brrrraapp compare that to another rb25 making 300rwkw brrrrrraaaaaaaapppp and it appeared to actually rev slower... As it would as its making less torque. I believe 88Silloute has a nice little vid.. now if thats considered slow reving....... Its simply an old stock n/a rb30 with a 25 head, exhaust manifold and trust turb making somewhere between 200 and 240rwkw I forget exactly. I remember he mentioned the limter was 7200rpm. http://kero.drifthost.com/videos/marks4doo...nout.Winner.wmv Suitable turbo + a nice exhaust manifold and the rb30's do rev like buggery.

Definitely sounds as though some one is taking the piss out of you ax53b70p25.

Exactly the same if you get caught with a boost controller or larger turbo, cams, ecu.

My left front was replaced 4.5years ago. It cost me $250 inc. labour, the others have been fine since. Mine was silent when not turning but rather loud and worrying when turning slightly, it was noticable at around 40-50km/h around a corner as you approached 80km/h it was so wirrr r r r r rr that it was worrying.

works for me.. Those of you using firefox it will save the file with an incorrect extension, simply rename the extension to pdf and off you go. i.e should have no problems

Apparently ADR (Australian Design Rules) state that a speedo must read within 10% of the correct speed.

This is exactly what I have experiened, In third it made 4rwkw less and it was consistent, we did 4 power runs alternating.

Yer not sure about the 10% this was quite a few years ago, I think over 5yrs as that was my last speeding ticket. Never received one in the skyline. The moto cop said 9km/h over in a 60. I actually did 78 but he marked it down to 69 just to be a nice bloke. lol.

The actual motor rebuild is EXACTLY the same as what it would cost to do an rb20, rb25 or rb26. Rods are cheap and plenty full as vlt's have been around for a long time, pistons, grab a set of cp's. The only added cost I saw was $70 for the engine mounts, I ran the r32 rb25de head that has no vct so no costs involved there. Bl4ck32 and I had our bottom ends done at the same time so we received a slight discount, so not really comparable. The bottom end completely assembled with forged pistons and head fitted inc. parts was ~$4000. We purchased a r32 rb25de head for $750 and had it rebuild + a little work (usual valve deshroud, mild port & cleanup, bronze valve guides etc). The rebuild and work cost $1100 inc. parts. We then had to fit it which was as easy as pie. I'm really happy how the rebuild has turned out, both motors return awesome fuel economy, don't use oil and best of all.. They haven't blown up.

Owning an rb30det the only real cons are: 1. They need a rather large turbo for them to rev out, something along the lines of a GT35R .82 BUT it must have an aftermarket exhaust manifold other wise the exhaust manifold causes power to nose over around 5500-6000rpm. 2. Engine height, if you don't want to lower the motor you must drop on a greedy or gtr style plenum. 3. Legality.. There are no other cons, fuel economy is the same and its so so much nicer to drive around. Off the line lunge is rather impressive, so there's no more playing catchup. I would say do it.. The cost of rebuilding a rb30 is the same as an rb25. The only added cost is the oil feed to the vct and IF you decide to lower the motor. I had some one reweld my engine mounts for $70. So the extra costs over an rb25 are I'd say well within $200. If you run a GT30 or a turbo around that size you can expect a power curve similiar to the attached dyno graph. As you can see peak power is made so much earlier in the rpm, power goes flat then noses over a little earlier than the rb25. An RB30DET running the gt35r .82 still has more power downlow from 1000-3500rpm than an rb25det (stock turbo, 11-13psi, pfc, exhaust, fmic) making a peak of 190-200rwkw. Your T70, a bit of a stab I would say the spool threshold will drop from ~4000rpm to low 3000's + you will see some boost much earlier in the rpm.

yep thats it..

MY EYESSSSSSSSSSS!

Good story but... LMAO. Yes here in SA a nice mr. moto bike police man said >=9km/h you will be fined, this was quite a few years ago now.

Nope. The sliding performance thread caught my eye.

lol.. always the way.. That sucks.