Cubes

If its making the power its making the torque. You can't have one without the other. Please ignore rolling road torque figures as simple things like tyre pressure, gear ratio's, diff ratio's, tyre size/diameter and the dyno its self all make a difference. For example.... On the dyno I run on an RB25 making 300rwkw makes around 390nm of torque, an rb30det making 300rwkw makes 540nm. Obviously the rb30 is making the power earlier in the rev range hence its higher torque, the rb30 is also running a slightly shorter diff (4.363:1 vs the rb25's 4.11:1) which again bumps torque up slightly. But here's an interesting comparison. my rb30det when it was making 176rwkw was making the same peak torque as the rb25 makign 300rwkw, being 390nm. Obviously I made the 176rwkw rather early in the rev range in order to achieve such a torque figure. So... essentially.. You cannot compare dyno torque figures UNLESS you have the exact same tyre size, exact same gear ratios, exact same diff ratio and both run on the exact same dyno! The torque curve is good when tuning as you can see easily how afr's and ign. send the torque up or down at that particular rpm point. If it makes more torque at a particular rpm running slightly rich with more ign. timing then thats obviously optimal. Leaner doesn't always mean more torque. Looking at 254rwkw Jarrett performance dyno graph the afr's and ign. timing definitely need to be cleaned up in order to smooth out the torque curve. Its much nicer to drive a car where the torque comes on and continues to pull rather than come on then fade off a little then rush back on.

GTS25, o2 sensors require calibration from time to time. Its difficult to tell who requires the calibration.

Brakes are fine with a set of good pads on street tyres. Should I go semi's and hit the track then I may require a set of R33 or R34 brakes to ease pedal effort. Bushes are well overdue as is a new diff so they are first.

The R32 head runs top feed injectors factory.

No, I'm running the R32 RB25DE head so that everything simply bolts up and looks stock. But yes.. the springs and injectors do fit up to the head with no modifications.

15yr old boy and his first root... So the motor won't last too long then hey... lmao. Nice analogy, unsure if it was intentional though.

Due to the metallurgy of forged pistons they are smaller when cold. During this time they 'slap' around in the bore essentially wearing it slightly, once warm there's no real problem with bore wear. A typical street driven motor see's many heat cycles of which accelerate bore wear. I really have no idea how many km's to expect from a forged piston motor as it depends on how its setup initially. Wiseco pistons have a recommended bore clearance for usual street use that see's absolutely zero audible piston slap when cold. I went with a clearance of what they call '24+psi or race use', i do hear slight piston slap when cold but I do have to have the bonnet up, its so quiet some one who doesn't know what they are listening for will not hear it. Google piston slap, bore wear amongst other things. You will see lots of GM LS1's mentioned.

I do want a hell of a lot more than 50,000km's and I have no doubt the condition the motor is in after 40,000km's it will easily do another 40,000km's. With regards to being happy with their power..... 300rwkw through rwd + rb30. It doesn't work to good. One reason why Sk30 now is dropping the rb30 in to a GTS4, rwd with so much torque and power doesn't work on the street. Mine is a daily driver, rwd, I'd be happy with up to 300rwkw and then tune the mid range down in order for it to get some traction. Realistically for the amount of power that can be used on the street we don't need forged pistons, traction is a big problem.

Conan, For a high km motor you still best off without a forged piston. Its well known forged pistons cause greater bore wear. I consider the greatest benifit of a forged piston being its lighter weight, not so much its slightly greater strength that still breaks under detonation. Do remember .... When it comes to forged pistons use the piston your engine builder is familiar with. If not, you are only asking for trouble.

I agree with StockyMcStock. NIB, there's nothing wrong using the rb25det pistons. 0.020" is bugger all.

I run the Wiseco RB25DET pistons and have decked the block 0.020" the make up for the rb25det's lower compression height (that is 0.020"). They run a dome of 14cc's. Similiar to the stock rb30e piston.

Find out who does it in Lonsdale as there is a VERY VERY bad spray painting mob on O'Sullivans Beach rd Lonsdale. A tip.. They are a big blue company. Blue tow trucks, blue building. I had big drama's with them and still the paint isn't that crash hot, no runs any more but not a good quality paint finish, quite depressing. Another friend of mine also had troubles with paint runs from the same place 6 months prior to having my car done, unfortunately I didn't know this at the time. EDIT: That will teach me for not reading the whole thread.

No idea... Black_R33 has experienced a bad lifter holding valves open and now I'm being told that my problem may be partially my lifters due to a couple of symptoms; the all of a sudden valve float and lifter pump up i'm experiencing and the occasional same valve float lifter pump up miss. No idea.. Will find out when the head comes off. I had planned to pull it off this mid term break, it won't be happeneing as I'd prefer to have a little extra money stashed away just incase it gets expensive. :S Lifter pump up miss cannot be mistaken, its a different sound to an ignition or fuel miss. I'm sure black_r33 agrees. Mc. Stocky... believe me I have fantasized about a nice solid lifter conversion + a set of gtr high lift cams... high lift = lots and lots of mid range.

The stock rb20det turbo's are fairly tough. I ran mine on 15psi for around 90,000km's then bumped it up to 16psi for the other 30,000km's. The turbo's now off and still feels and looks perfect, in fact it was in better knick than the vg30det turbo and the r34 turbo in the pics.

It has been suggested to me that this 'may' be the cause of my valve float, as occasionally on startup i get the lifter pump up miss. I'd be interested if there is a cheaper than nissan way out of it. Similiar year VG30 lifters are the same part number so that may be a start, well for myself with the R32 head anyway, possibly the US may have something aftermarket.

I have pics of an R34 and VG30DET turbo. I have an rb20det turbo here also but will take pictures later. The VG30DET and RB25 turbo's run a larger comp cover, the comp cover reads 45V something. The Rb20 turbo's read 16V. Apart from this 45V on the comp cover there's really no way you can tell if you have a R33 or R32 turbo on your car, that is unless you know your turbo's and have had them in your hands plenty of times prior. To myself.. The RB20DET turbo is rather obvious, the comp cover looks skinny.

They generally pull around 190rwkw on 14psi with a tuned ecu, nice exhaust and fmic. For all out top end power the best choice is the R34 GTT Turbo, this runs the light weight comp wheel that aids spool and it also runs the same VG30 OP6 sized turbine housing. The R33 Series 2 turbo runs the light weight comp wheel as the R34 turbo does to aid spool, it uses the smaller turbine housing that also improves spool, as a result this turbo is the most reponsive and quick spooling. The R33 Series 1 turbo runs the small turbine housing as the R33 S2 turbo, this aids spool over the R34 turbo BUT the r33 S1 turbo also runs the heavier metal comp wheel that increases spool and decreases response. Myself.. I would go the R33 S2 turbo on the RB20DET, push it to 14psi and be happy with a nice responsive 190rwkw. If lag and lack of urge down low didn't bother me then I would go the R34 GTT turbo. In the past I've seen R34 turbo's go for $600, R33 turbo's go for $400. Another influencing factor why I would choose the R33 S2 turbo, they are cheaper. These prices do make the XSPOWER look attractive, before making the jump seriously consider the lag and lack of response. A good way to feel what a larger turbo would be like on the rb20det is to pull off the turbo's heat shield and disconnect the actuators arm that connects to the wastegate. Take it for a spin and have a good think if you don't mind having almost no go until 4500rpm+ or when ever the XSPOWER turbo comes on strong.

Please remember peak power doesn't make a car quick. With the T70 you may make over 200rwkw but then comes along an R32 with a S2 R33 or even better an R34 turbo making a solid 190rwkw and wipes you clean. Go an R34 GTT turbo if you want to get damn close to that 200rwkw or if your happy to trade a couple of kw's for ever so slightly quicker spool go the R33 Series 2 turbo. Its interesting dr drift says the XSPOWER T70 turbo's are a good turbo, they have been nothing but trouble for the calaisturbo boys. Apparently the XSPOWER are cheap crap where as the MASTERPOWER are better. But still cheap

What do you expect... No sorry no other vids. Well one of a s14, s15 but they are slow and boaring. Head down and check it out one morning, the idea is to get around the track as quick as possible. Leave the GTS4 in first approach the track a little differently and I think you could be pretty quick with some practice.

Here's that other vid I promised. As soon as I get the axle tramp sorted via some nice bushes <looks at bl4ck32> I'll be heading out the motorkhana. I won't be driving like that silver r32 though.

Mr Magna man doesn't have a problem with 4 doors. I've got a couple of R32's on vid that were there on the day, i've had problems with a new *CRAP* video editing program called Pinnacle i'm trying for a family friend. Conclusion.. Pinnacle 9 right up to the latest 10.5.2 is total crap, its full of bugs do not buy it!

Handbrake.

I've got a few vids from a motorkhana I attended. I'll sort them out and post them up.

Please don't go the vg30det turbo on the rb20det. The VG30DET is exactly the same as a RB20DET turbo apart from the turbine housing and comp cover. So its not an upgrade. Well it may be if you've been unlucky enough to snag an rb20det with an old series 1 rb20det turbo, the R32 series 2 turbo's are slightly larger and make more power. You are MUCH MUCH better off and WILL make more power with an rb25det turbo. If it were myself, I would grab the R33 Series 2 turbo and bolt it on, spool nice and quick. I've ran a vg30det turbo on my rb20det some time ago, it came off the next week end as I was completely dissapointed with its street performance. People say but the rb20det turbo feels as if its asthmatic at high rpm; I say load of crap, get the rb20det turbo holding boost (actuator mods or a GOOD variable duty cycle EBC (AVCR, Blitz SBC-iD etc)) and they pull nicely to 7000rpm and will easily rev to 7500rpm in the first 2 gears without feeling as if power drops off. Why not save and look at something like this? http://www.horsepowerinabox.com/HPIAB2/prod176.htm Bolt up isn't an issue as thats what adaptor plates are for.

http://www.mallala.com/practicedays.htm One benefit of a car club is access to motor sport such as motorkhana.