Cubes

No Simply cranked it over until the oil pressure light went out. ~20secs, felt as if I was going to damage the starter motor it was cranking for so long, battery was almost flat. Speak to the engine builder, tell him what you have done, not a sign of oil is a worry. Nope, apart from what you have suggested. Try over filling it, drop 15litres in to it in an attempt to bring the oil level up with the oil pump, maybe the air vacuum in the pump isn't enough to suck the oil up.

Did the engine builder deck the block by any chance? Removed oil restrictors, decked block, forgot to replace??? :S

We kicked arse indeed. Did rather well in the boxing not to mention the weight lifting, running, everything.

Spotted HR32 at Flinders yesterday. Nice looking car.

Its a good result for stock ecu. My R32 GTST when dead stock made 115rwkw, a little ign play and fuel play bumped it up to 125rwkw. Its a good result. Be happy. Does look like it could do with a set of cams to free up that top end and stop it flattening out. Its definitely running lean through the mid, run it a little richer + more ign. timing and it WILL pick up torque/power. Whats your plans ecu wise? SAFC + ITC? You really want to get that ITC.

I don't believe the wheel 'flex's out', thats speculation.

I quite often listen to a bit of trance via internodes radio streams. Quite a bit of good music on there, shiet loads of available radio stations/streams.

Andrew, what camera?

Probably spending time with his family on the weekend.

Nice power for the boost level... very nice. Where's it make peak torque and at what RPM does it make peak power? You say rb20det exh. manifold, I'm assuming the turbo is internal gate, if so what turbine housing does it use?

bah... A needle width above half and I've already clocked 245km's. I drive easy 98% of the time, its nice to have the power there when you want it.

The power curves are basically the same, it spools the same and makes the same initial power and torque, mine does hold torque pretty much dead flat until valve float were as yours makes its peak torque then begins to tail off. My power goes flat at around 4000rpm then really dives off hard at 5000rpm as the lifters pump up hard and the car begins to lump and miss badly. Sitting in the car as its being dyno you can really feel the power back off, as you can when driving it. Heads coming off in a week so it will be hitting the dyno again shortly after, it will be interesting to see how the top end power curve goes with it not floating.

I've attached ash's dyno sheet. It is making no where near the power it should. Mine is basically the same setup, makes close to 180rwkw by 4000rpm where power goes flat due to valve float and lifter pump up. (heads coming off in a week to have springs fitted/setup) Note the big dip in power, who thinks this is a boost leak? Ash, I still would like to see your ign. timing run at load points 15-17 across the rev range. or maybe its pumping a shiet load of oil around resulting in the tune having to drop a heap of ign. timing at that point, reducing torque as a result reducing power. On the note of the turbo's howl... IF its a metalic scraping howl (which is distinct and cannot be mistaken) then there is a possibility of metal shavings working their way through the cooler and in to the motor that will damage the bores. I do doubt this has happened as one mentioned prior, you will notice a drop in power and you would have seen bits in the ic piping oil. Have you been keeping an eye on the detonation values? What also makes me think its a boost leak is I remember you saying when the bleeder was conencted you had a large whoosh sound and the car felt a little dead in first gear... Is that correct?

Its loud when it opens up. I want it as quiet as possible, gets on my nerves.

Ash, You can pick up the 3" flanges for next to nothing from AAA Exhaust. I bought a 1m piece of 3" pipe, 2 flanges and 2 gaskets for $30. Nice bloke at AAA, will definitely have future exhaust mods done there. Which will be fairly soon as I am going to quieten the car up a little by dropping the largest straight through muffler I can fit under the car just after the cat.

But we arn't talking about 1400rpm in 5th? We are talking about normal driving conditions; keeping up with traffic which may mean 0psi-2psi of boost. Tune these area's to as lean as they can go (sure reduce a little response but who cares) and you WILL pick up fuel economy. Why tune light/part throttle for maximum throttle response. Not arguing discussing. I think I have simply missunderstood your line of thought or missed a prior post or something

Dropping it in to a GTS4. You are better off grabbing a complete Rb26 and inlet manifold/plenum. If you do decide to go the rb25 head route then you WILL require an aftermarket plenum due to bonnet clearances and the inability to easily lower the motor. All of which increases cost to the same level of the rb26 head and inlet/plenum. So go the rb26 head. So drop a rb26 head on the rb30 block and run a rb20 powerfc. There is no need to start fiddling with looms unless you go the r33 head. To be honest.. The r33 in your circumstance is a pain in the arse. The Rb26 route is so much easier. R31 Power, Unsure if the RB20DET valve springs are any different to the R32 Rb25DE, the reason I say this is the RB20DET runs smaller valves. Generally speaking smaller valves run light springs. Grab a set of GTR springs, second hand they go from $100 up to ~$200 for low km R33/34 items.

Its most likely ppls doing the same thing day in day out become a little blazay and miss/forget something. But your definitely right.. There's no reason for the stuff ups.

Bugger.. Always depressing when this happens. I'll be interested to see what the problem is.

Thats the thing I don't. :S The PFC's closed loop is closed loop, being 14.7:1, you cannot make it run leaner even if you wanted to. Tweaking of the inj. map is really all you can do, this attempts to bring afr's closer to the closed loops target afr. You pick up fuel economy by leaning out the higher load area's, this is where some other ecu's allow you to change where you want closed loop to turn off. The way I look at it is why run 12:1 up to 2-3psi when it will be happy at 13:1 who knows maybe even 14:1. Sure 14:1 may make it lug a little but who cares when its a 3ltr that has plenty of not too much low speed torque with the skylines gearing. Tuners generally tune for response and power. Not fuel economy.

The plenum really doesn't have to come off for anything. I was able to easily remove/replace injectors by simply removing the cross over pipe and throttlebody.

premo, there's no need to ceramic coat unless you wish to race (track) it, only then would I consider. The cost of it all will be pretty much the same as you use the same water/oil pump as you would on the 26. Depending on your use... make your decision. If its motorkhana rb30 all the way, if its purely track work.. well I'd have to say I would go the rb26. If I were to spend 900 on a nice ATI balancer only then would I go the rb30 for track work.

Finished as in no longer? :S I'll make a call also.

Cut yes.. To pieces no.

I would have to so go the rb26/30. For the price it costs to pick up a s/h good rb26 you can have a fresh 3ltr with a 26 head. I'm not one for second slops