Cubes

I found Adelaide Jap to be the cheapest at $500. Others wanted up to 900 for an rb20 box..

You want a 0 deck clearance. At top dead center the piston is flush with the top of the block.

As Roy pointed out. The RB20's with RB25 turbo's strapped on make very very similiar numbers to the rb25. I see no reason why the will SR make more power other than a dyno reading differently or the rb having a slight problem causing power to be a little low. Come to think of it there's an SR20 S13 on the dyno I run on and it made around 180rwkw (will confirm exact power tonight) or so with an S15 turbo bolted on the side running a stock ecu. Its very common for an RB20 to make 190rwkw on 14psi with an rb25 turbo. I forget exactly what Nightcrawlers S15 made..

The BOND Aston Martin I saw was at night. It looked black from what I remember so yes close enough to British Racing Green given the lighting conditions. Its a new Astron Martin, No idea on the model but it looks bloody awesome, so damn agressive with that huge arsed grill that looks as if it will 'eat your children' lol sorry on the last comment I was watching a tv show the other night where it had Mike Tyson saying the quote.. lol what an idiot.

The R30 uses the usual automotive plug 8pin plug that is made by various manufactures such as navara etc. They can be picked up from the local auto store for around $3.95. Have a look in the tutorials section for a guide + pics written by Roy.

The rb30's run a pin height of 1.260. The wiseco RB25's run a pin height of 1.240. (ACL RB25's run a pin height of 1.233 = 0.027" off the block) With a lesser pin height the piston sits lower in the bore, so to achieve the same compression ratio as a piston that sits 0.020" higher in the bore you are required to pull 0.020" off the block. Before you grab pistons dummy assemble it up and take a few measurements to see what pistons with what specs will achieve what ratio.

The R30 resistor pack looks the same as the gtr item but with a different easier to source more common plug. For $5-$30 you really can't go wrong with the R30 item.

I'd be interested.. What sort of $$ are we looking at.

Exactly... I have NFI! lol I'll find out soon enough.

The S15 helical is good for handling and getting power to the ground HOWEVER they are a little weak and break up around 200rwkw.

The viscous CAN be shimmed, its not really the best option but does work long enough for you to get some $$ together for a 'real' diff. Essentially the only difference between the S13 and R32/R33 diff is the ratio, back plate and half shafts (different bolt up). The housing and diff center are the same.

All the R200's (shortnose) there are plenty of ratio's to choose from. The problem is finding the ratio you need. I've found wreckers don't keep much and or simply have nfi.

I've never said torque wins races... Nothing worse than a motor that doesn't rev and noses over hard.. i.e my rb30det and its current setup.

No Drop me a PM if your interested.

bump

lmao... I prefer the sit hidden away option. I wouldn't want mates coming in to my house looking at those piddly looking valves. Look at the size of them vs the head bolts. lmao. The picture doesn't do them justice or lack there of.. They really do look small.

lmao.... Well.. its only based on what ROY tells me.. hehe On a serious note... A motor that is able to hold its power longer IS better suited to the track. Well... Nicer and a little easier to drive at the track.

It would be interesting to grab some flow bench data from the two. I know proengines has done a bit on the rb26 and 25 heads, maybe he has touched the rb20 and sr20 heads. It might also be worth looking at the VG20DET to help rule out the rpm/stroke influence of spool and low end torque, they run a 78mm bore and 69.7mm stroke as do the rb20det's.

Come on ppls... You all know VVT aids both bottom and top end. Reduce overlap, improve bottom end. Increase overlap, improve top end. Without VVT you land some where in the middle and try are forced to be happy with what you have. Does the SR head really breathe better than the rb20's? Sure it runs larger valves similiar to that of the rb25's head but it does have to pass 500ml puffs vs 333ml puffs. Lets look at valve size. RB20. Inlet - 30mm Exh. - 27mm RB25 (SR's have a similiar combustion size so I'm assuming similiar valve size) Inlet - 34mm Exh. - 29mm 333ml is 66% of 500ml. Do the valve sizes reflect similiar? RB20 inlet - 88% RB20 exh - 93% TO me.. it looks as if the rb20 individual pots have it over the sr/25 type sized valves when it comes to how easy air flows past the valves. But it also tells me that there is little room for a nice quench area and airspeed will be down, resulting in a lack of low end torque and slower spool BUT a much better top end that will simply keep holding power and not nose off sharply. So... Which motor will be better suited to road use... The SR. Which motor will be better suited to track use... The RB. Back to the origional question.... Why does a mild SR make power easier than the rb....I have NFI! Maybe..... Higher comp ratio, quench area, DEFINITELY a better std exhaust manifold, DEFINITELY VVT, higher lift cams with greater duration that close the airflow gap.

I've seen the 'BOND' Aston Martin. The Aston Martin's are an Absolute work of art.

trick, Drop a link to your forsale link + a little description in your SIG. Many more ppl see it that way.

Bore it to the max.. If it needs another bore/hone at a later date grab a new block.

Bl4ck32 and I had the bore thickness measured. Unsure exactly how it was measured. On our blocks 0.040" was really as big as we would want to go, according to our engine builder.

I think 10-12k at 18 is actually fairly responsible. At your age I went out and bought a 3yr old VS 5ltr 5speed Commodore for 24k. :S 12k over 3years is ~190 pf, 4years ~$150. So bugger all when your living at home and have bugger all expensive.

Thanks for the heads up. I knew it was too good to be true.