Cubes

Keep plenty of fuel in it and you won't need a surge tank. I'm not going to run one as it never sees the track due to my poor full time Uni finances. I run the standard r32 pump in tank which is very tired, I then run the external bosch that is rubber mounted inbetween the diff and petrol tank underneath the car, so nothing can be seen from the boot. I've ran a nice 8ga ( I think it was.. ) cable from the battery to a nice big fuse in the boot that then continues on to a relay, the relay is triggered by the origional wiring that has been snipped from both the intank and external. I then run the 8ga wire from the relay to the external pump, the intank pump wire is spliced in to the + feed. I've then ran a nice 8ga wire from the external pump to the internal fuel pump (spliced once again) then earthed it via the chassis. All the parts were grabbed at Jaycar. I posted my results of measuring voltages on this forum some time ago, I believe before the wiring mod under load the fuel pumps were only seeing 11.2v. After.. They see the full alt charge that is 13.8v when warm or 14.2v when cold.

I see the same with the pfc connected. Half is anywhere from ~72 right up to 109degree's. I quite like the stock guage like this to be honest. Nothing worse than a stock temp guage that constantly reads up and down.

I think the main issue here is 350rwkw. I'd use it as a lift pump for my external bosch. A few tips to keep the noise down that I know some of you already know. 1. Rubber mount the thing. 2. Run a dedicated feed fromt he battery activating via a relay. My external bosch pump has always been rubber mounted, cool days it was fine, only a slight buzz that I would consider to be as loud as a VS 5ltrs fuel pump. Nothing could be heard inside the cabin only out side. Roll along the hot days and the thing would become so noisy it would send a type of vibration through the floor pan driving me insane. I rewired it to receive full voltage, this made the pump sound as if it was spinning noticably quicker, the best part was the noise/vibration is now gone, even on hot days I can't hear the pump inside the cabin, outside who cares.

I'm unable to find much info on the Blitz SBC Type R. What type of EBC is it? 1. Intelligent - i.e Dial in boost level required it sets multiple duty cycle values through out the rev range in order to hold boost, in other words basically the same as the SBC-iD without the pretty handcontroller. 2. Old school manual type - plain old set a gain and duty cycle value (these will tend to drop boost over the intelligent ebc's)

I don't know if the vct feeds the lifters with oil pressure, the only real way to tell would be to some how trace the oil galleys in the head. I'll be doing this with my r32 head, I'd assume both oil feeds are joined and not seperate.. For example not joined oil galleys: rear oil feed supplys the rear cam bearings and lifters, front oil feed supplys the front cam bearings and lifters.

Not fuel lines, fuel hose. 10yr old fuel hose cracks, becomes crunchy and is not terribly safe to be pushing close to 70psi worth of fuel pressure through. Ring around fuel hose varies considerably. Right up to $30-$50 per meter.

Do remember Craved that you have an extra oil feed from the VCT were as I don't. I would feel perfectly safe running an R33 VCT head with only one block oil restrictor. As essentially the head is then receiving oil from 1 x 2 mm and 1 x 1.2mm oil feeds. The R32 RB25DE head on the other hand doesn't have a vct oil feed. I ran running 1 feed by my head bloke (Chris Milton Engineering) he was concerned with the hydraulic head receiving oil from 1 feed. He said on a prior rb30det they did ran a vct r33 head they left the rb30's standard 1.8mm restrictor in place, blocked off one and obviously ran the vct feed supply. It was fine. I didn't have my motor built by Milton Engineering as they wanted too much.. I almost fell out of my chair... Only the head was rebuilt as they had previously had experience with them. In a round about way I am asking Gary if he has ran an R32 RB25DE head with only one oil feed for a duration of time without experiencing issues. Gary has mentioned the R33 head but not the R32 head.

I don't believe it will on stock cams, Nice cams you may get close with an open exhaust. Clint32 here in Adelaide went crazy on an RB25 with 26 internals, big cams etc running a GT3040 .82. On the engine dyno it made a solid 580hp with around 25-26psi. On the rolling road it made a solid 338rwkw. BUT.. That is a built motor with a stupid amount of headwork, big cams, plenum, high comp raito (9:1) expensive fmic and basically no exhaust. No doubt it was running on some nice juice also.

The Walbro's are fine for low rail pressure low boost situations, as soon as you wind up the boost the fpr compensates rail pressure (base fuel pressure + boost pressure) as a result the walbro's flow drops substantially. For example.. Base pressure @ 40psi + 18psi boost = a total rail pressure of 58psi. Should you decide to push your injectors a little harder and run the base pressure @46psi + 18psi thats 64psi. Now compare flow rates between the walbro and bosch items and see why walbro's suck. If you are indeed running ~350rwkw then you will be running quite a lot of boost, you WILL want to replace all your fuel hose with nice high pressure gear, I've recently replaced all mine with 300psi hose + new efi hose clamps.

Thanks SK. I've had my blocks head oil return honed to improve oil flow however the actual head hasn't been played with. My heads being pulled off next uni holidays, I will then drop in one 2mm restrictor and block the other. I'm still a little concerned blocking off one restrictor with a hydraulic head being predominately street driven.

As I said.. Its awesome power. hrmm I wonder how it would go with 272duration cams with a solid lifter conversion kit running some decent lift.

Hrmm.. Under boost motor doesn't suck. It does blow the turbo up but that doesn't have any affect on how the plenum performs. I've seen this type of power curve occur with the old Sigma turbo's where the heads airflow capability is limited. Bigger cams, more lift and more overlap were required to keep the power creeping up as rpm increased. I'm assuming your running a 3.5" exhaust and stiffer valve springs. Is it possible the turbo's runing in to choke at 18psi for that airflow/power? GT3076R tends to be pretty much 270 maybe 300rwkw with a well breathing motor. I've seen 3040's push slightly over 300rwkw. But still... 280rwkw rb20det. Damn impressive.

What cams are you running? Still running std valve springs? Turbo simply is out of puff/efficiency at that boost level? Sky30's RB30DET is running around with a std RB20DET plenum and making 312rwkw @18-19psi, that has no issues apart from the stock log exhaust manifold being a restriction. Its running a big internal gate diesel .82 machined to suit a GT35R.

Yes but the RB25 head flows much better. It would most likely need 18-19psi to make 200rwkw.

R31's weigh bugger all.. Same as VL's. Rather decieving. More than good enough for a Uni play car.

1bar 208rwkw is a damn good result on 1bar, especially considering it was on shauns dyno as its known for being not a happy dyno.

The RB30 does rev (refer to Bu5ters) BUT you need to run a nice big turbo and nice manifold otherwise you will pretty much always make your peak power between 5000-5500rpm. Sky30's is a prime example of this. Huge GT35R turbo yet it still only makes its peak around 5500rpm, he dropped 260duration cams in it and made ZERO difference to where peak power is made. An exhaust manifold that can handle the flow (rather than the stock log item) is needed, sure you can dial in more boost to make more power but the peak rpm power is only going to become shorter and shorter. Have any of you seen silloute88's 3rd gear burnouts? If that aint reving what is... That is making slightly approx 230rwkw I think it was on 12psi.. Would have to double check that, he said it pulls ard all the way to 7500rpm. BUT he is running a nice turbo and manifold setup. Then if you consider flicking it past 7000-7500rpm you want to make sure you have a proengines oil pump drive crank collar fitted and possibly an ATI balancer. But this is the same for an r32 RB26 also. If you want to rev it and not break oil pumps you need either the crank collar or an R33 gtr crank.

Thats the nice clean looking one I often see in the Engineering car park?

RE: The Asus board. This is a nice feature.. Fast and furious style. lol

Note I said in the past gigabyte were known for rich features but not so good overclock. still good but not as insane as some of the othes. I have no idea where they are at now, I can't be buggered researching. That Matts systems has a huge range of Motherboards.. A little exxy though. http://www.mats-systems.com.au/

I'm not sure how that model of asus board overclocks. Head over to www.overclockers.com.au forum. Basically you select the parts to suit each other. If you want a feature rich motherboard such as the gigabyte then select pc3200 as the gigabytes in the 'past' are known for not being great overclockers. ABIT, DFI and ASUS in the past have been awesome overclockers. I'm all for overclocking.. I haven't had to upgrade my system in 3.5years it still is what I consider to have decent CPU power as it runs at 3200+ speeds. If it were running at its stock speed of 2100+ well erm yer sloooooow.

Which is why you run the 3 programs I listed. It shows you were the limit of your hardware is without having to stumble around with reboots etc. Usually reboots are caused by the ram, he was most likely running it way out of spec without enough voltage or the timings were too tight. Push the cpu too hard and the system generally just locks, push the vid cards gpu too hard and it will lock, push the vid cards mem too hard and it will display artefacts, eventually leading to a lock. Thats 'generally' how it works, do one thing at a time and individually so you know where the limits of that item are. CPU, RAM then VID.

Madaz, Sorry yer bad math lol.. $50. When overclocking you force the ram to run at a faster rate. i.e... I am able to push my abit-nf7 to 221mhz FSB multi the 221mhz by 2 (DDR Double (2) data rate) gives me 442mhz. I can run my PC 3500 (434mhz) ram at 442 using timings of 2-3-2-7. I don't bother though, 200mhz fsb (400mhz ram) with a nice even 2300mhz is good enough. Plus any more than 2300mhz even just 10mhz more and it requires a jump to 1.95v which is way way too high. So 2300mhz is known as the 'sweet spot' + I hate looking at non rounded numbers on boot. I believe the DFI main boards can be pushed as high as 270mhz (540mhz DDR). The PC4400 (550mhz) would come in handy. Its quite hard to break something overclocking, there comes a time when increasing cpu voltages gains small increases in mhz the system also begins running way hot. This is where you back it off slightly to the 'sweet' spot were temps are nice and the system is reliable. I used to use good old Prime95, Madonion 3dmark and memtest. Prime hammers the cpu, 3dmark hammers the whole system but mainly the vid card, memtest hammers the memory. OCZ is good.. Its what I'm running now. EDIT: Damn too many smileys

Darren, That corsair ram you have selected has pretty loose timings. Grab something that is cas2. For an extra $40 grab the ocz that runs cas2. As your aim is to overclock you may also consider selecting faster ram, say pc4400 (500mhz) or pc4000. and if you really want to have a play.... Water cooling http://davidandkarma.yahoostore.com.au/cgi...y_id=1107132762 You may also need a decent HSF (intercooler) later down the track when you decide to wind the boost up. http://davidandkarma.yahoostore.com.au/cgi...y_id=1107132739 Ensure the motherboard you select is sli ready. At a later date grab another vid card for a nice boost in gaming performance. Where will you draw the line? My self.. I've always liked overclocking. If I had a budget and it was either faster ram or more ram I would select the faster ram.

Dual Core. Then Quad Core, it won't slow down for what is expected another 20years.