Cubes

AP Engineering PowerFC (R32) RB30DET with R34 GTR Injectors Injector trim @ 58.5% I've found this to pretty much be as lean as I can go before drivability suffers. As it turns out these values are the same as the R34 GTR PFC. It drops in to closed loop no less than 1km down the road with engine temp is @ ~50degree's.

hahah.. I you won't be going anywhere with your coils in the state they are.

How about 2 quick beeps?

Ignore torque figures unless its back to back on the same dyno in the same gear with the same ratios. The torque line I've found is good when playing with ignition timing, it shows eactly the affect dialing a little more in our out has, much easier than reading the power curve. The AFR's are tuned nice, suits N/A.

Well yer thats the idea behind it. BUT realistically have you seen the size of the turbo's oil return? Have you seen the size of the heads internal oil return? Its massive. I really don't think the T'ing in is the issue, I think its the overall setup. Oil pump used + oil restrictors used. All the ppls I know of that are or have had issues is due to the oil restrictors. My tuner has recently done a VL rb30/25 that had the same issue, he's in the process of ripping the head off and dropping smaller restrictors in it.

I know of a couple people that have T'd in to the turbo oil return, they are having no problems. I know of one person have problems and they are T'd in to the return. It could very well be something else, they are running the N1 high pressure oil pump without modification of oil restrictors. Possibly the real issue.

Another concern is the rb25 heads that don't run vct also ran lower pressure oil pumps. I've seen this already with regards to bl4ck32's motor. Its identical to mine apart from the oil pump (rb20 for him, rb25det for me), literally identical as it was built at the same place at the same time. Higher oil pressure at high rpm does squirt more oil in to the head, possibly one reason why the N1 motors with their slightly higher pressure oil pump ran a smaller oil restrictor. I don't think its black and white, there are many variables.

Where does the return join the block? Any chances of a pic?

Have a good look under the hood and trace the heads front oil return. T'ing it in to the turbo return is 'apparently' not a good thing to do.

I know some one who has a spare. New from tomei, I believe they are worth ~$30. There is a mob in australia that makes them up also. I forget who they are but they are well known. :

ahh they do indeed have their little idiosyncries. i.e returning out of standby issues, dead bios issues etc.. Otherwise.. Rock solid. Not processor related, more so chipset and motherboard manufacturer related. They aren't that bad but what I was getting at is 'some' of the amd boards are indeed quite bad. I can't say I like MSI, I forget the model, it was a little quirky with ram and didn't like to overclock. I'm sure there's similiar examples within the intel range.

Be sure to researc the board plenty as amd boards ALWAYS seem to have annoying issues due to chipset. Probably the same with intel, just I haven't experienced it yet. I went an ABIT, and would most definitely go one again. One reason I am going an intel chipset board with a P4 next time around. I'm considering a P4 dual core, I'm hoping I can hang out until they get the mem controller on chip.

Ahh... you see thats your problem. You have bought a little P4 (4cylinder) that is required to rev to 3400mhz in order to have similiar performance of an AMD (V8) @ 2200mhz. lol Not really related to overclocking... lol On that note I'm soon in need of an upgrade. I'll be heading the P4 route this time. This little AMD 2100+ @ 3200+ has lasted 4years.

Drift_Limo, I run the 'dr_drift' boost controller, it drops boost from 14 down to 11 running the vg30 turbo. The manual boost controller to bring boost on a 'little' quicker then the actuator mod to reduce travel to prevent boost dropping. Just the boost controller alone won't prevent the rb20's usual boost drop. Chris, Pop the bonnet and have a look at the actuator. The actuator bolts on to the turbo with 2 bolts, when you remove the actuator you simply elongate the holes to the right. The wastegate mod essentially does EXACTLY the same thing as buying an aftermarket adjustable actuator for ~$120. The aftermarket actuator uses a bolt on the actuator arm to adjust it in or out.

Those Ford Territory running the same motor as the xr6 + 6speed auto will go pretty damn well then, especially considering its only 200kg's or so heavier than the xr6. Few little mods, one dangerous 7 seater. :S

The EL's run 2 plugs from memory, ef's run the 1 plug. You can either wiring them up parallel so they run flat stick when enabled or you can run them as a 2 stage. Being low/high. Wire them in series for low, parallel for high. 2 stage will obviously require 2 temp sensors. Davis Craig make one, I believe jaycar also have a nice little kit. Might also be worth chopping off the old plugs if you can't find anything similiar and grabbing a set of new plugs from the local auto shop for $3.95, much nicer than using bullets or similiar. You 'may' require a little fibreglass kit to touch up any small bits you have to cut.

I think I would be more sh*t scared it was the T-1000........ THE TERMINATOR!

I'd like to hear about fatz tight arse also. On the note of block -> head oil restrictors, can't remember if I covered it in here. RB20/25 - 2 x 2.4mm RB26 - 1 x 2mm RB26 N1 - 1 x 1.8mm RB26 Tomei - 1 x 1.5mm RB30 - 2 x 1.8mm Be sure you block one off fatz. As I'm running the rb25 head I'll soon be running 2 x 1.5mm tomei restrictors. They pin punch down on top of the origional ones. Running 2 x 2.4mm restrictors my rocker covers are being filled with oil even though the return had been honed to improve oil return. BUT I am running a rb25det pump that sees ~6.5kg/cm2 or what ever it is at high rpm.

To run a 12.7-12.8 in a GTST you really need around 235-240rwkwk with a good driver and good tyres. S13 being lighter.. I have no idea. You are right the RB25 turbo is awesome bang for buck mod.

R33 S1 afm's (green sticker 4pin) are the same as the r32 rb20det afm. R33 S1 afm's (pink sticker 3pin) obviously don't plug in. Z32's as stated are orange, I'm waiting for bosch, they said they will have the numbers I require by may due to an problems they had with manufacturing that threw backorders through the roof.

Be civil. Sick of these type of threads. goodbye.

Let us know with pics how the install goes. I'm up for an oil cooler but don't want to spend a fortune. With the catch can. Have you opened it up and shoved stainless steel wool in it? An open empty catch can doesn't do much.

I personally wouldn't bother with a boost controller just yet. Elongate the wastegate actuator holes and set it up on the dyno @ 1bar if you have an fmic or ~12psi without. The idea is you reduce the wastegates travel, as a result increasing boost. It works very very well. A bleeder will tend to drop boost when trying to run 1bar, 12psi will be fine, the wastegate actuator mod won't. + its free. If you find its running out of fuel, be prepared to fork out for a fuel pump. I ran mine on 1bar for almost 4 years I believe it was. Good oil with regular changes, heat range 6 sparky's and ensure afr's are good with no detonation will see the turbo living a long life. Sometimes you luck out, life is such.

I'd say some where around 318nm of tractive effort at 4600rpm.

Ahh yes... I know that head.