Cubes

Have you had this turbo on a RB30DET? A friend had a GT3040 on his RB30DET only to be dissapointed with the lack of top end (not peak power but acceleration feel) due to the restrictive hotside. Basically it made a heap of mid range power then power goes flat across the top, big arsed diesel feel. I believe I have an old dyno sheet from an early rb30det conversion, it has an rb25det -> rb30det back to back done with the same turbo. I'll try and dig it up as that too illustrates the flat top end.

No... The airflow curves are located within the ecu. So the physical afm, there is ZERO difference. All ECU's contain different airflow curves for a given afm. So the same afm on different ecu's will return a slightly different load value. As previously said I am not sure why the airflow curves are different UNLESS it has some thing to do with engine efficiency. No idea. I shouldn't have gone so in depth, only confuses. I've had both afm's on the dyno on my R32 RB20DET many years ago. There was no difference. Exactly 100% the same afr ratios.

Craved, the r33 s1 and r32 afm's are most definitely the same. From observations the R33 and R32 PowerFC airflow curves do vary slightly. It appear the r33 airflow curve returns a higher load/airflow for a given afm voltage. SO possibly this is where you may see r33's making the same power as r32's on the same afm voltage. I'm not completely sure what directly affects the airflow curve, maybe engine efficiency.. I have no idea. The rb20/25 afm's have different airflow curves in the s13/s14 pfc's also.. Go figure.. I have no idea why.

Carl... You said $180ish. Is that in AUD? I'm assuming USD. My ignitor has began cracking open (looks quite strange) around the little ridge that runs around the edge of the top plastic. .

I did 3 changes from memory, possibly more within the first 1000km's. The oil was always dropped when a new filter went on. Overkill yes but hell... I spent enough money on the motor I really didn't care as the run in oil was cheap.

Like forgetting to tighten up the turbo's inside water banjo, resulting in a lot of my nice new coolant dumped in the pit. On the topic of coolant, next service I will be going genuine coolant, I checked out the price while I was in nissan last. Its a similiar price as the usual aftermarket gear.

Definitely change the oil filter after the initial start. I cut mine open and freaked out what was floating around.

Motul 300v is most definitely good stuff (ester, high in molly, zinc etc); depending on the clearances and driving style will determine the visc you run. Only way to really know is by oil analysis. Latest api car oils = low levels of anti wear to extend cat converter life at the expense of engine wear, super low vis = less resistence for improved fuel economy. Note how Motul 300v doesn't list specifications or maker approvals, but you do pay for all the goodies it contains.

CruiseLiner, What oil do you plan on running? No doubt only the best full Ester high in Molly, Phosphorus & Zinc?

Sarumatix, Do remember that 88degree's will be in the lower bottom tank. The bottom of the rad is cooler than the top. For one the water leaving the motor enters the radiator from the top and two the top is always hotter. So you will find 88degree's in the bottom tank will be reading ~94 or more in the top tank. It is strange that your a/c disengages when the switch is enabled. Mine doesn't. Possibly there isn't enough air flow cooling the condensor (remember the clutch fan is normally working) as a result the a/c gas cannot be cooled resulting in the compressor being turned off. Do you still have the a/c condensor overheat fan connected? Have your wired it up so that it comes on as soon as you hit the a/c button? This is the way it should be for australian conditions. That wasn't the fan controller I was thinnking of but it will work and is cheap, it 'may' even work if you were to hook up the stock temp sensor. To know for sure you will have to find out the voltage output of the sensor supplied and fingers crossed it will be similiar to the stock nissan temp sensor.

Down South I see... Sounds nice, throw on a hot dog or have a piece of straight pipe made up to stick out the back, sounds too nice to throw the stock muffler back on. I will keep an eye out for it.

I've been told to steer clear of aftermarket aussy valve springs by many. Allen engineering, Chris Milton Engineering and Boostworx to name a few. I was told to either go s/h gtr springs and have them tested or grab a set of aftermarkets from japan. I went the s/h low km R33 gtr valve springs. Cost bugger all and are all perfect.

Pinouts are different accoding to the engine manuals I have. :S

As I mentioned earlier.. Hi Octane Racing Australia www.hioctaneracing.com.au $15 each inc. gst + postage.

I'll have to grab a few pics of my bodgy cai. I grabbed 2 x 45degree 100mm dia pvc pipe angles. Cut a great big dirty 100mm hole under the std air box, cut a hole in the bottom of the airbox, fibreglassed then painted to make it all nice and tidy. Looking in the engine bay its very difficult to see. But its a defect.

The air inlet temp sensor is easy to get around providing you have access to a datalogit or even better why not run the temp sensor. The only real issue is the use of one afm when the ecu expects a signal from 2. Easy to get around when you think about it.

My RB20 and Rb30 often hit 90 odd degree's. The std temp guage reads half from ~70degree's right up until 109degree's. What temps have these silvia's been running at? I'm assuming you've taken note of what engine temp the switch activates the thermo's? Have you fitted a lower temp thermal switch?

It looks as if the GTR head in the gts4 is the way to go. No issues with clearance and having to work out how to lower the motor. If you can pick up a gtr head, inlet manifold, exh manifold with a set of stock turbo's it could be an easy and quick way to 250rwkw. It also leaves open the option of picking up a set of well priced s/h 2530's and bolting them on, a little more fuel pressure and push those injectors. The piston oil squirters.. ignore that, there are no issues. VLT's have been around for years and do not have problems, mine and many other rb30det's don't have problems either.

Women drive hard and do neglect maintenance irrespective of age. Not all women but most, some are savy most are not. The majority of males will want to spoil his car, neglect flowers for the missus so they can spend another 10-20 on synthetic oil or a set of rb74 pads. Either way.. A cars owner doesn't bother me, it all comes down to the price and what it comes with. Mods are expensive, gearbox's and diff's are not so much.

When are you getting the white smoke? General cruising, deceleration, on boost hard acceleration, after startup? Detonation... Programmable ecu, safc & itc or remap.

Sarumatix, The thermal switch in the bottom rad tank enables around 94degree's. Providing you can track down another at a lower temp use that. Researching in to these temp switches a 'little' I've found they don't exactly turn on over say 87degree's then turn off once temp is below 87, they tend to turn on at say 87degree's than it takes until maybe 83degree's. Temps used are an example. So not really what we want.

Yes you can. BUT how are you going to trigger the thermo's. The stock temp sensor reports a voltage that corresponds to a temperature.

That dyno run wasn't exactly N/A. The wastegate was simply wired open. When I had my rb30det run in it made 133rwkw with the wastegate wired open on a different dyno, so a very similiar result. It made stuff all boost until peak power due to the wastegate being wired open. So... 133rwkw on 6psi with crap all ign. timing and from memory 10.5:1 afr's. Just because its a 3ltr doesn't mean it will make more power than the 2.5ltr. But do expect more average power, which is what impresses people when the ride in it. With a slightly higher comp ratio and good tuning it will make the same peak power as an rb25de with the same mods. All the best, I'm keen to see how it turns out.

Voltage will vary depending on if the car has recently been started and the electrical load. Mine will sit on 14.2v for around 5-10mins after start up then drop to 13.8.

This is what I will eventually have. 25t box running 3.9:1 diff gears behind the rb30. Make a nice cruiser + I won't notice the bottom end loss. Due to the longer *thats if my ratio's are correct* 25t gearbox's first gear I wouldn't want to go a 3.7, would really be a pain in the arse with my ceramic puk clutch. R32_GTST_25t_Gearbox_3.9_diff_gears.txt