Cubes

205 55' 16" Tyres 4.363 Diff gears RB20DET G/box ratio's of: 1st - 3.321 2nd - 1.902 3rd - 1.308 4th - 1.000 5th - 0.759 Reverse - 3.636 Please correct the above if wrong... This is very accurate calc compared to what my PFC reads. 100km/h in 5th on the pfc is 2782km/h. This calc states 2780km/h. The tacho reads ~2925rpm, so out considerably. R32_GTST.txt

205 55' 16" Tyres 4.11 Diff gears RB25DET G/box ratio's of: 1st - 3.214 2nd - 1.925 3rd - 1.302 4th - 1.000 5th - 0.752 Reverse - 3.369 Please correct the above if wrong... ~210km/h @ ~5500rpm. R33_Speed.txt

Awesome MonstaS4, The two 1.5mm items with non vct should work well. Its always a little iffy when trying new things that really no one (well at least you think there is no one) has had experience with. One question, which oil pump are you using?

I know its not mine. But, its now Pokies.

Let me make sure I've got this... The RB25DET with VVT Disabled. You run one 2mm oil restrictor as the RB26 does standard and you also block of the VVT oil feed. Resulting in exactly the same standard setup as the RB26. So... Myself running a R32 RB25DE head. If it was yours you would block off one of the oil feeds and run 1 2mm feed. So if I were to run 2 x 1.5's that would still be more than you have suggest for a non vvt head.

Google is your friend. http://www.google.com.au/search?q=SA+Dayli...:en-US:official

If the temp sender was in the lower hose where the thermostat is I would suspect the temp to be 76degree's or pretty spot on. As the temp sender is in the top hose it reads the water temp leaving the motor. So... The temp sender in the top hose should always read higher than 76degree's no matter what. In my case ~83 degree's on cruise and up to 88-90 degree's if underload for a duration of time i.e dyno tuning. Am I thinking along the right track?

Cheerz Gary.. Some one in the know. Any chance you would have an opinion on the oil restrictors?

HighOctane Australia have the restrictors for $15 inc gst + postage. http://www.hioctaneracing.com.au/

Maybe its sticking? If your happy with its temps, don't break it.

No its only 2 x .75mm per head. Same as how we run 2 x 2.4mm or 2 x 1.8mm (rb30). You will need to obviously measure the od diamater, punch the old one down as it won't be coming out too easy. --- RE: no oil squirters. I don't completely understand how decreasing oil flow to the head will increase oil flow or pressure to the main bearings based on the fact that all oil pumps run an internal bypass. Say pressure reaches 100psi, the oil pumps spring bypass opens up and prevents any more pressure being made. I obviously dont understand the mechanics of it as logic would tell me that if I were to increase the heads oil restrictor size then the oil pump would be flowing more oil to create the same pressure, decrease the heads oil restrictor and the pump would be flowing less to create the same oil pressure. A smaller head restrictor you may notice higher oil pressure lower in the rpm range which is a good thing with the rb30 as higher power (which is what the rb30 does lower in the rpm) requires higher oil pressure. All I can see running a smaller restrictor doing is leaving more oil in the sump, less in the head, less chances of lifter pump up, less blowby, not really feeding more oil to the bearings UNLESS the heads restrictor was so big it was preventing the bearings from seeing very little oil pressure due to the oil pump never hitting its internal bypass, which in this case I doubt. I am thinking too much. Don't need to. RE: Patrol RB30 As far as I'm aware they are the same RB30E SOHC.

Your both running genuine thermostats? Maybe water temp really is 80+ just the sensors read lower? Paul.. Yes, see if some ppls on the datalogit forums are keen. Share mine with them, may get things moving, being something different and all. The PFC appears to stop retarding ign. timing at 60degree's so no real worries with retard, only fuel. What will happen is it will be tuned, be fine for the street until you really push it hard (i.e track) engine temps will rise, fuel will lean out and you will most likely notice a little detonation. When I get around to it I will take down my cranking ms injector settings. I've got it cold starting perfectly with the larger injectors, prior it was taking a few too many cranks first thing in the morning, now it fires on the first crank. Seems to be a thing with R32's and GTR injectors from what I've noticed.

That would be awesome... IF he parts with it. No doubt it will help out all us SAU'ers at one time or another. The bearings in mine are beginning to rattle a little, so it won't be long.

Doing a little research it looks as if some chevy v8 with hydraulic heads tend to drop down to 2 x 0.75mm restrictors to do the usual, prevent blowby and feed a little more oil in to the main bearings.

Bl4ck32, See how yours goes.. Next time its on the dyno and shaun's gave it a big run quickly unscrew the oil filler cap. My rocker covers were definitely fullish. Sky30 I believe ran the stock rb30 1.8mm size with an rb20t pump and still wasn't completely happy, I believe he too is looking at going smaller. Thanks for the obvious tip Discopotato03, I didn't think of such an obvious easy fix (brass rod). Do remember the rb30 block doesn't run piston oil squirters so in the case of the rb30det, its not that simple to know. Mine... There's simply too much oil in the head with my setup. Being... Rb25det oil pump R32 non-vct rb25 head Standard rb20/25 2.4mm restrictors no piston oil squirters honed block oil return. I require smaller oil restrictors. The way I look at it is if there's enough oil for 1 x 1.5mm restrictor to feed the rb26 head + keep the valve springs cool + lube the cam lobes and cam bearings then 2 x 1.5mm restrictors is going to be plenty.

The reason I want the extension is so that I can easily remove the h/c and plug in a datalogit. off topic but... Here's a good thread regarding piston oil squirters. http://gtr.co.uk/forum/upload/showthread.php?t=36648 It doesn't really show anything we don't already know but there is a few interesting bits.

I can run 1.00 right down to around +10 with only a real slight roughness. still idles perfectly stable, roughness is hardly noticable. The issue with mine going so lean is more so the flat spot, running what I have now its spot on. Car doesn't feel as *choked* up when cold and literally feels and drives as if it was warm. Best part is it doesn't smell like fuel first thing in the mornings anymore, some thing its always done even with the stock motor/ecu.

I will grab a few things at once if thats the case. I NEED. lol <looks around to see if the other half is looking, nope, ok quick type> PFC 60cm extension cable $13.80 PFC Boost control kit $355.37 2 x tomei restrictors $11.56 + ~$40 postage. I've done quite a bit of searching. It looks as if the std tomei rb26 headgasket doesn't include a restrictor. Its ONLY the headgasket kit that does. The Headgasket kit also includes manifold gaskets.

I use Dayco 300psi fuel hose.

and..... a few pics from tomei. And where to get them from..... Greenline appear to sell them for 500Y. Thats... 500 Japanese yen = 5.78345824 Australian dollars + postage. Sucks when postage is worth more than the item. Postage to aus via ems is $18.50 aud.

lol. yes Grommet is a brand of hose. Supercrap sell it.

Craved, RE: Heater Fittings. I'm not sure I know what you mean, any pics? The RB30 block requires you to screw out (rear of the block drivers side) the rb30 item and screw in the rb20/25 item. You are also required to remove the pressed in water connection located on the thermostat housing as the rb30's item is once again different. These parts can be had from nissan new, they are cheap. Thats the only heater hose block attachments I can think of. Pic attached is of the rb30 block with the rb20 rear heater hose attachment (as can be seen to the left of the green knock sensor and the other water hose attachment poking out of the thermostat housing. While on the topic of heater hoses etc... PLEASE AVOID GROMMET rubber hosing/fuel hosing at all costs. Its total crap, my grommet efi fuel hose began to crack after 1year and another grommet heater hose I used became very very hard resulting in slight coolant leaks when the car was viewed first thing in the morning.

Nope.. I stumbled upon the company via this board. Be buggered if i can find it again though.

How much are these kyb's setting you back?

Joh21m, The PFC only reports the knock reading, it doesn't do anything with it unlike the stock ecu.