Cubes

lol.. No doubt u overclock the sucker? Bit like winding up the boost really.

I had this issue when purchasing my head. The heads are different, the R33 rb25de heads ARE VCT, the R32 RB25de heads are NOT. I purchased what the wrecker insisted on being an R33 head, it was most definitely an R32 head. I'm not sure where they get their information from, possibly they are listed incorrectly in jap land?!? I purchased mine from Adelaide Jap. So ask for an Rb25 head without VCT, the non-vct heads run top feed injectors unlike the vct heads that run sidefeed injectors Inlet manifolds are different between the two also.

No.. Not too much weight not enough power. Nice little gcg highflow or hks3037 similiar should sort the weight issue out.

Ash, I need to see whats going on with your ign map. It looks as if you have quite a large drop in torque around the same 4000rpmish as I. Initial fiddlings had the base map at 18degree's dropping to as low as 14 to reduce det at 4000rpm, even then it was still spiking up (50+) over 4000rpm but much better than the 100+ it was when running 18degree's at that rpm point. Shaun suspects its the valve float setting in causing a little det and power to flatten out, as 5000rpm approaches the valve float gets so bad the lifters pump up. BUT as stated earlier I am running a higher pressure oil pump so no doubt this is aiding the pump up early in the piece. Fiddlings since I am able to run 21degree's without det until this ~4000rpm load point where it just sh*ts its self. Definitely strange how a few hundred rpm earlier I am able to run 7degree's more ignition timing, most likely as Shaun said... Valve float. Any chance of copying your wot ign values across the rpm table? I will be after load points 15, 16 and 17. With regards to boost drop, you can force it to hold by elongating the actuator mounting holes and wedging it away from the turbo using a screw driver, be carefull as its tuned for the boost its set to now running more boost will only send it lean, depending how the fuel map has been setup. I was experiencing valve float but no lifter pump with the wastegate wired open at around 6000rpm+. Your N/A curve looks much nicer than mine. Any idea what boost it was running with the wastegate wired open?

I've had a quick look. Basically it looks the same. I was running the same boost resulting in exactly the same spool but with what looks like a bee's dick more torque, also at ~100km/h you drop torque massively. BUT by peak power it had tailed off to 11psi and it was valve floating over 4000rpm. Can you check your ign map via the h/c at around 3800+rpm, I'm guessing there was detonation issues resulting in quite a reduction in ign. timing. I experienced det at 4000rpm, I'm able to dial up to 21degree's up until this point which no doubt will result in quite a jump in torque, we didn't bother fiddling as it was pumping up the lifters if rev'd over 5000rpm. At 4000rpm it didn't matter how much ign. timing I pulled out it would ALWAYS still knock and power would go flat BUT knock would reduce slightly. Shaun said valve float was beginning to set in and by 5000rpm the lifters would pump up. Which sounds nasty. :S Also... Peak power with the rb20t turbo was made with 9psi (176rwkw). With the car valve floating I made the same power but earlier in the rpm on 11psi. As I said we were unable to tweak ign. timing due to valve springs. I suspect you are getting quite bad boost drop, check it out.

I believe its 2psi for every .5 of a comp to achieve the same dynamic compression ratio. I'm checking out your dyno graph now ash.

I have no idea.. PM me a mug shot of yourself, you obviously know who I am? If your who I think you are then I've spoken to you in the past?? DB2 will be interesting, I have to do it as its a core subject. :

Where did you grab the bran new alt. from? Nissan i remember were stupidly expensive so it must have been an aftermarket matchup?

I drive on some pretty hard tyres in the wet, simex are rock hard tyres that are non-drectional and are extremely bad in the wet. I was curious how you couldn't feel it? Hence the reason for the road surface quiz.

Torque doesn't win more races if you stick with the crappy stock exh. manifold as I have. It kills top end power. :S If you go all out with exh. manifolds ect the rb30 is worth it, if not, I don't think it is.

Might sway me in grabbing a 2way if its a little nicer.

Scooby, you sure it wasn't that nasty arsed road surface? The light grey shinny looking stuff that causes understeer at 15km/h. I learnt to drive on that stuff, rather dangerous, especially if its on a bus route.

Yes Maxx.. I forgot the sr20.. The Sr20 did feel as if it had heaps of off boost torque compared to the rb20, i do remember it feeling very similiar to the rb25.

Compressor Surge... Bummer.

Johnny, its a way of thinking and applying problem solving skills. Cars are extremely basic from a technical point of view. Don't be scared to get in there and have a fiddle. No doubt it will be a nice break from all that reading and reciting.

What charger is it you are using StockyMcStock, I know you've said in the past. I've forgot. My guess its still going to have the turbo feel to it, just a turbo on a big cubed motor.

How did you find the rb25 to rb30 torque increase? Noticable? I went from rb20 to rb30 so the jump was massive.

Its wasn't the law i was concerned about it was their policy. Being a 'performance' car where under 25's are not allowed to drive the car I was concerned that she would not be covered on her L's. My other half is 27, yes she was slack getting her license but did get 100% in the test when she went for it. So as she is over 25 she is covered to drive the car, L's or not.

I believe the word for it is tractable. I called my insurance company quite some time ago to question cover should my other half drive the car on her L's. The young bloke on the other end said.... 'No, you shouldn't let her drive as those cars are too dangerous for an L plater' I said.. 'its relatively stock, it doesn't get going unless you really get stuck up it with a few rev's, even then its hardly an animal' he said... 'look mate, i've driven those things and they are damn quick, i know' I shut up at this point thinking what a........ yer... He had no idea.

If anything it should be the other way around. Filter every 5000k oil at 10,000kays. The oil will last the distance, the filter won't. :S But do both every 5k. Use a decent mineral oil, there really is no need for a mild rb to run synth unless you really want to. I run synth because I've thrown 6k at a motor

No boost is determined by both. The higher the rpm the harder it becomes to control the boost level. Low rpm there is little exhaust flow to spin up the turbo so there will be little boost no matter how much throttle input there is. Stock boost they feel like N/A like so nothing to worry about.

You have run the SS595 sky30? I'm getting close to a new set of tyres.. EDIT: I might stick with not so sticky tyres until I get this fragile rb20t box out. :S

Go the 2way.. Its not like you will loose money on it as they hold their value well. If its a little harsh and you get paranoid when cops are looking when the inside wheel chirps around roundabouts and in carparks then look at a gtr mech diff. You'll get used to it. I drive mine daily with a lot of car park use (at uni) so there's no way I would put up with a aftermarket 2 way especially if it shudders and chirps the way the nismo 2 way does. But if it wasn't for uni I could probably put up with it, not sure if the other half would be too happy about it though. :S

Nice... And..... How much did you pick it up for?

Nice looking 34... Is it auto or 5speed? Care to share how much you paid for it and how much you are paying for insurance? At the age of 19 I had a rating 3 I believe. So providing you have the same insurance shouldn't be too much of a killer.