Cubes

The senders can be a little iffy. Mine will play up from time to time. The other day for some reason it was constantly reading almost zero. Pulled over went in to the shops came back out and since its been sitting normal. Being 8 on cold, just above 2 on idle, and 6.5 at high rpm. My sender is the origional, being 204,000km's and ~14years old. They are a mechanical device so they are not the most reliable. If its always reading low then there is an issue.

Seriously consider keeping the VCT unless you are going to go massive cams. If you are looking at massive cams go the rb26 head. The R32 RB25 head really is only a good option for the R32 as it allows a stock look without modification of wiring/sensors or injector types. The R32 heads are fairly rare these days, I've only seen R33 Rb25de heads at the wreckers lately. Besides the point the R33 rb25 head is slightly better (has slightly larger ports and better designed plenum) than the R32 rb25. Only slight. In the real world it appears to make no difference to power outputs. The VCT however does. Definitely worth keeping the VCT.

All though it may be different due to fuel used.. Do remember the way the Gibson GTR's were setup. 9:1 comp ratio. I would personally stick down around the 8.5:1 ratio, I wouldn't be game to venture higher. What comp ratios are you looking at if you use off the shelf items?

bwilkeson, Pitty I can't catch up.. You could have checked out my 300psi Fuel hose I managed to pick up for a nice price.

lol

Damn 3.5kg's is pretty damn light. Mine was ~5.5kg's. I was told not to go any lighter.

I recently drove a friends VLT that made 187rwkw running a 2.5" exhaust, fmic and 14psi, it had a compression test resulting in @ 150psi in all 6. A little high for 7.8:1 comp I thought. It was rather impressive to drive. To be honest I didn't notice any lack of down low torque despite the high 3.45:1 ratio at part throttle, it did feel a little slower getting up in the rev's where boost would build but once boost was in it really hauled arse. To cut a long story short don't for one minute be worried about the 3.7:1. It will work fine and be a much nicer easier car to drive. Darren... I shiet you not it felt as if it pulled as hard if not a little harder than yours through the mid range, it did however feel as if it died a little past 4.5k, due to the head I assume. The longer ratio felt as if it allowed you to use the torque of the motor. Much much nicer and quicker feeling to drive than the 4.363:1 ratio. For a streeter Sky30 expressed his concern with regards to how savage the gt35r is on the rb30det. Do remember its making ~550nm of tractive effort torque in order to make ~300rwkw where as an rb25 on the same dyno requires around 390nm of torque to make ~313rwkw. Mine made 390nm of torque to make 180rwkw. :S We can see why traction is such a problem on a rb30det making decent power. Interesting torque figures, get the transition as linear as possible and it will be a very quick car. Back on topic... discopotato03 do you mind being my guineapig.. lol No thats not a question. Your goals are the same as I and you do understand turbo matching just a little (lot) better than I.

I'm unsure if my builder packed the pump with vaso but I did crank it over for quite some time with spark plugs out. As soon as I saw plenty of oil in the head (oil pressure light was still on) I dropped the plugs back in and fired it up. The oil guage no oil pressure light went off instantly once it started. Exciting times for you ahead. I ran around like a chook with no head the minutes prior to starting her up, double and tripple checking everything... The car was started and dumped coolant in the pit as I forgot to pinch up the inside turbo water banjo... Bugger. lol

Bugger, I'm out as I've been asked to work. Need the money any how as I still have a few things to do to the car and the new Uni year is approaching fast. Damn n/a valve springs. Wish I held back for a week or so and had the decent ones put in from the start. Teach me from being a tight arse and thinking along the lines of suck and see. Pretty bad saying that suck and see, shouldn't really use it. lol.

One to suit your power level.

Yep Busk2k explained it better than I.

lmao... Drop a diesel in it and nice high diff ratio if you want to hold a top speed. Acceleration is where its at. On a serious note slight inclines were not noticed.

dangerous_daveo, with regards to keeping away from light flywheels. I dropped a light flywheel on my Rb20DET, to my suprise it felt so so much better, quicker off boost acceleration with no difference in spool. Taking off from a standing start was so much easier as the car simply wanted to accelerate where as with the stock flywheel my guess was it also had to over come the intertia of the heavy flywheel, resulting in a dougy feeling little 2ltr. Gear changes were quicker, free rev's were noticably quicker allowing easier rev matching when approaching corners hard under brakes. Fuel economy didn't change, neither did drivability. I will definitely go a light flywheel again. 99% of those that have had a light flywheel before/after will always go the light flywheel.

Rev210, Any pics of this 16" thermo sitting in the std shroud? I assume you simply screwed or some how attached the thermo in the location of the normal clutch fan to the factory shroud? Might have to do some measurements. I've previously ran 2 x 12" davis fans, it was fine apart from sitting in traffic on a 30+ degree day with the a/c on. Temps would creep to the H.

My R32 with no boost control, stock ic, 3" turbo back exhaust with a regular highflow cat made 10.9psi solid all the way to redline. Later I fitted a FMIC, made no difference to the boost, still 10.9psi. Prior to FMIC, 12.5psi had it making 152rwkw with fairly tidy afr's due to the fuel pump being tired. Given your peak power was made with 11psi another 1.5psi is likely to achieve a similiar peak power. In order to hold over 12.5psi to redline I had it holding boost via 2 methods. 1. Good elec auto (boost curve learning ebc) such as the avcr, Blitz SBC-ID. I ran the Blitz SBC-iD, auto mode I selected to run 15psi, it learnt the boost curve and held it perfectly. Select to run the boost control in manual mode (fixed duty cycle) and it would drop boost. 2. I modified the wastegate bracket. Elongated the mounting holes in order to pull the wastegate towards the front of the turbo, this limits the total opening of the wastegate flap. This held 15-16psi perfectly so I ripped the blitz sbc-id off sold it and put the money towards the rb25de head for the rb30det setup I had planned on. Power is pretty much around the mark for a usual non-happy, unfiddled dyno.

It will only boost quicker with regards to rpm, not so much time.

I dropped mine. Did the trick. lol EDIT: Required several drops.

Ahh yes... Different ball game for the install and if the clutch is suitable.. No idea.

$400 to install.. Thats a rip, who did that? Generally a clutch install is around the $250 mark. Do remember clutch pads don't have much meat anyhow, maybe 3-4mm in total??? never measured but from memory it doesn't look to be much.

Yep. It looked ~50% used. Lots of short trips, traffic, other half driving it and now 34,000km's. I will buy one again.. Just a little lighter on the pressure plate. Next time around I will go the 800kg item.

If you have troubles finding a gtr resistor pack you can use the R30 resistor pack.

KILLR33, This is to suit the VL. My experience with the VL's is they require the water to be slowed in order for the car to not get too warm. A good example of this is an aftermarket cheapo thermostat. They open really really wide. The genuine item opens only slightly. Aftermarket thermostat, car runs slightly cooler MOST of the time. Driving up a long hill at 60-80km/h or has the engine temp slowly but surely creep up over half when its warm ish weather. Drop the genuine item in and the temp guage stops fluctuating. It pretty much hardly moves and doesn't over heat up long hills. The Skylines don't have this problem. Buy a GTR N1 pump if you want something similiar, the pully is $250 wasted.

http://kero.drifthost.com/videos/marks4doo...nout.Winner.wmv RB30DET TD06-20G 10-12psi 3rd gear powa... There's no need to pop tyres when you put on a decent show.

GT35R doesn't suit StockyMcStock.. He's going GT40R + supercharger.

Dropping the little boy (1yr old) off at my oldies.