Cubes

Its just sik...

As paul said.. Won't receive any better fuel economy or performance. It will allow you to run higher boost levels providing everything else is in check.. fuel pump, afr's, ign. timing etc..

With old motors try to avoid those engine block power flushes. From experience it dislodges crap at a later date blocking your cleaned radiator. If you must place a stocking (old bodgy mechanics trick) over radiator water in snout then place the hose over it carefully. No doubt the L series motors are the same as the RB's... The top rad hose is the water in, or block hot water out. Monitor it obviously and clean until you no longer see crap caught in the stocking.

VL plugs fit the Z32 AFM.

Friggin awesome.. Can't be the noie of a V8 + the turbo whistle. Not to mention the torque it would have made. :S Those old Torry's have massive issues with chassis twist with an old school V8, how on earth have you lot got it to hold... Complete chassis replacement?!?! :S

Series 1.5 is really a series 1 with some parts from a series 2. Not legal.

Have a fiddle with the gain setting. All though you will still see 'slightly' different peak boost levels depending on air temp.

What type of blitz ebc? The SBC or SBC-id? I used to own an SBC-iD, if setup in auto mode it had to be setup on a dyno other wise it would have a tendancy to spike a little. Manual mode that uses a plain fixed duty cycle and gain was always rock solid but with the smaller turbo would tend to drop boost at the higher rpm, where as the auto mode would monitor boost levels and adjust duty cycle in order to force it to hold boost.

Quite depressing really.. Us line owners need some sort of fuel computer or full ecu to get that sort of power.

Vange I think you would be suprised how well a lightly modded VLT really does go. Last dyno day a mate of mine Natho had his VLT on there, 2.5" exhaust, AVO intercooler, 13-14psi via adj. actuator, 5 speed manual, close to 200,000km's on the clock and it made 187rwkw. Stock ECU!! Untouched.. Pretty damn impressive, especially when you consider the VLT's weigh the same as an R33.

My fuel economy has always been fairly good until recently. My o2 sensor would flick 0-1v roughly once every 3/4 of a second. ~350-380km's per tank driving it fairly lightly. Prior was ~430km's with the 3ltr or prior with the rb20det 470km's per tank when fuel economy was what I consider good. I Replaced o2 sensor, response was slightly quicker but still hung around the .8-.9v and 0.2v for longer than I liked, it still had crappy economy. I ripped out the injectors replaced them with gtr cleaned items that flow within 1% of each other, trimmed fuel to 58.5%. Instantly fuel economy dropped down to 11.6l/100km's. It had a slight flat/dead spot just before boost was made, as boost began being made the o2 sensor would read 1v. :S I had all the closed loop area's tuned to as close to 14.7:1 as possible. Just out of closed loop afr's were adjusted to 13.5:1. Zero vacuum afr's are now 13:1, as boost is starting to be made it begins to drop down in to the 12:1's. The base map was leaned off in the closed loop areas, just out of closed loop was richened up to achieve the 13.5:1, zero vacuum and on boost afr's were leaned off. Torque feels like its up as it drops out of closed loop but just before it begins making boost. Accelerating is pretty much always just out of closed loop but just before boost is made. Fuel economy has dropped down to ~10.6L/100km's... yipeeeyaaayea...

Awesome Boostn32, care to share the specs?

'life is cruel' as the saying goes.. Maybe what Mr. Maxx intended?

I am unsure of the exact workings but everything does play apart. I may just have a collapsed valve spring or one that has gone weak as it does appear to have gotten worse over time ~30,000km's.

Item: R32 SII RB20DET Turbo inc. 90 Degree elbow Location: Adelaide Item Condition: Excellent Reason for Selling: Not Needed Price and Payment Conditions: $180 + Postage or Pickup. Contact Details: PM Made 176rwkw on the RB30DET @ 9psi, there was a little valve float experienced at top resulting in a slight lack of peak power; the valve float was caused by weak valve springs. The S2 RB20DET turbo runs the same core (turbine and compressor wheel) as the late model (Cima, Leopard NOT Z31) VG30DET turbo. If you have a buggered VG30DET turbo laying around bolt, the larger turbine and comp cover on this turbo for a cheap fix.

My fiddlings with this boost control unit is they work best with a lightly sprung wastegate actuator. I have it drop less almost no boost on a 6-7psi rated actuator than I do my rb20det 10-11psi actuator.

I'll hear from them Monday.

Thanks for the few suggestions. I performed a compression test on it recently, all cylinders were 153psi apart from 1 that was 152psi. So I would consider that perfect, my guess is that a tuliped vavle is not the case due to compression being perfect. I hope. I really do suspect possibly a badly setup or stuffed valve spring/seat tension. It shows up worse the more boost you run. Cams are standard. Another suspect is 'occasionally' on a cold start up the car will run on 5 cylinders for a few seconds then smooth out to a smooth idle. It feels and sounds exactly like lifter pump up, but how can it be so. Ignition and fuel has been checked and is perfect. arggg... :S Head off to be sure. A good little read on seat pressure... http://www.cranecams.com/?show=faq&id=5 Mentions how higher oil pressure and high viscosity oils aggravate lifter pump-up. Possibly why i'm experiencing issues a 1000rpm earlier than the others with a lower pressure pump.

Take a pic My plugs have always been a light grey colour. http://www.spark-plugs.co.uk/pages/technical/diagnosis.htm

Definitely .8mm is required... Now back on topic... lol The car has been on a dyno.... To myself I think it sounds like 1 cylinder that drops, I suspect cylinder 5 as I had an issue after the head was reco'd/worked... The cylinders exh. valve seats were sitting higher than the rest, I spoke to Tim which said it is of concern and may cause detonation, it should really be fixed if you want to run 20psi+. Which was the origional intention. I sent the head back to miltons, they fixed it with a bit of griping. Possibly they didn't bother checking seat pressure or just machined the valve seat and slapped it back in. The valve seat was definitely machined, not replaced. I am going to defintely pull the head off and see whats going on. Replace all lifters, rb26 valve springs and setup everything properly. I might prior throw it on the dyno again, get it to pump up then quickly pull fuel from that cyl and see what cyl is causing the problems. I should have done this last dyno session but ran out of time.

I am running the stock RB25DE N/A valve springs.. I was hoping they would be good until 17psi, I had always planned on dropping new ones in to suit cams later on. Sky30 ran his with no issues until 17psi with his N/A head untouched. He did however run a lower pressure pump than I. Bl4ck32 is running 16psi with no issues BUT he has had his shimmed as Chris Milton Engineering did his head at the same time as mine, mine was apparently ok Bl4ck32's required shimming. Once again he too is using the lower pressure rb20det oil pump. I'm using the rb25det pump that see's almost 8kg/cm3 (i think the unit is) at 4000rpm+. vs ~5-6kg/cm3 of the rb20det pump. Maybe the higher pressure pump is slightly contributing to the pump up. I'm also running slightly thicker oil being the mobil 1 5w50. I didn't experience as severe pump up with the motul 5w40, just power flattening out. Thinner oil is not an option as its just a patch up. I wouldn't want to be holding third or fourth gear out without the valve transfering its heat to the seat well enough. :S Either way.. I'm dropping a set of gtr springs in and will ensure seat tension is correct myself... As they say... If you want something done right.. do it your self.

jnr32, Power goes flat after ~4000rpm and tends to read a higher than usual knock, its definitely not detonating. Over at approx 5200rpm power will really die in the arse, lifters will pump up then it will run on what sounds like 4 or 5 cylinders. Comes down to idle lumping over a little that then smooths out and returns back to normal after a few seconds. Quite scary actually.... Shaun seems to think its a few things that make mine float earlier than Bl4ck32's or Sky30's on the same springs. 1. oil pressure... I have nearly 8kg/cm3 oil pressure at around 4000rpm+ where as the rb20det pumps have around 5 or 6. 2. My springs haven't been shimmed but did come up as ok seat pressure. Bl4ck32's have been shimmed but does run the lower rb20det pressure pump, sky30's hasn't been shimmed and runs the lower pressure pump. From memory sky30 say pump up around 17psi or something. Bl4ck32 is running 16psi so he may yet see pump up. Too many variables. It was running so so rich with the gtr injectors in trimmed back to 58.5%. Well in to the 9's as soon as it was on boost, as shaun said... Almost enough fuel to have it hydraulicing. Light load and cruise was a little rich, then at around -5mmhg (where it drops of out closed loop, it 'may' be -5 i can't remember exactly) it went lean then once on boost it went rich. Tweaking of the base fuel map was definitely required. Drivability and torque has improved shiet loads off boost, it now feels so so much better just before it comes on boost. Fuel economy is now down to around 10.6L per 100km's which is awesome.

Its better than having the issue i'm having now.. Valve float.. Over 4000rpm with 12-13psi it will begin to miss, run on 5 cylinders. Brought down to an idle it will continue to miss until the lifters bleed back down. Valve springs

I believe whatsisname is running the BKR7E and has made up to 299.1rwkw. They appear to work quite well.

Hi ppls, I'm after a set of GTR valve springs. Please drop me a PM if your upgrading soon or wish to offload a set you have laying around.