Cubes

A clutch type diff is always shimmed to adjust its tightness. VLSD's on the other hand are a total different kettle of fish. A gtr diff can go for as low as 450 right up to around (nisswreck) 650. Obviously with the nisswreck diff you get to swap it if its too worn or stuffed. I'm not sure on the setup cost. I am going this route once I drop new valve springs and smaller head oil restrictors in. Head off job .

Dave.. I find a mech diff a little too harsh for every day driving. The next best option is to pick up a gtr clutch type diff and have it shimmed up slightly in your housing. Nisswreck have a few last I checked.

Do also remember the cool down isn't as critical in water cooled turbo's due to thermosyphoning. I do as the majority. Warm up - Start, put the belt on and drive off easily 2000-2500rpm. I was told to do this by my engine builder as doing this brings the forged pistons up to temp quicker reducing the amount of time they slap around damaging the bores. Cool down - drive easy for a km or two prior to shutting down, I'd be silly to thrash around the side streets where I live anyhow.

Spotted who I am pretty sure is HR32 around 1pm today at the intersection of Lander rd and south rd. Just after the southern expressway onramp.

No drama's... I am able to get my hands on another easy. Proengines.. Whats your view on 2 x 1.5mm restrictors? Obviously I won't hold you to anything you say as I doubt any one has actually tested, so its an unknown. But technically speaking, does the hydraulics really need much more oil over its big brother solid?

I went King HP bearings. http://www.kingbearings.com/hp.html

Awesome. I'm a happy man. I've since discovered the tomei restrictors are 1.5mm. RB30 are 1.8mm RB26 are 2mm RB20/25 are 2.4mm Thanks. One last question... Does the rb26 tomei headgasket kitcome with 2 restrictors? Running the hydraulic head I need to keep the two.

Morpowa are fine. I'm unsure why they would have had problems fitting the pfc as they are a plug in. With the idling issue that comes down to setup. You really need have it idling, remove the aac plug and set the idle via the screw to as close but not over the idle setting in the pfc. Then init the pfc, reload the tuned maps, connect back up the aac and send it through its idle learn proceedure. Doing the above I have a 100% stable idle all the time every time.

The 32's are a good little reliable uni car. During the semester I basically live in mine. lol.

All depends on Money Darren.

The plug HAS to be connected. Where have the wires gone? From memory the top plug is the high signal. The bottom is the low signal.

I think you need to check out exactly when it is pinging. If its pinging on deceleration (when there is a fuel cut i.e ZERO fuel) then there's issues some where else other than fuel. If its pinging as you take your foot off then its possible your injectors are a little dirty OR the ign. map needs a little fiddling in the cells above the wot cells. I.e say your wot uses load point 15-16. When you pull your foot off it will quickly pass through 14, 13, 12 etc.. That fraction of a second there still load on the motor as your foot is still on the throttle. The lesser load points may need a little ign. timing removed in order to prevent slight ping. This is rather hard to replicate on the dyno so its really up to you or the dyno tuner to take it for a spin around the block. I wouldn't be happy if this happened and I had paid 500-600 for a tune. If you paid 100-200 then its to be expected as obviously its had a good but quick tune that isn't as comprehensive as a 500-600 tune. That TPS needs to be fixed as it only adds to the equation. Drift_R33, Are you receiving detonation from low rpm high load? i.e rolling out of a corner in second, third or even fourth gear at 1000rpm then holding it flat. Chances are the tuner hasn't loaded the car up enough at such a low rpm as its uncommon to be driven in such a way. I have/had this issue. A -1 degrees from the 1600 zone fixed it up.

The B.I.T course is geared towards management/project management. Not so much programming/web development. It really depends on what you like, I personally cant stand sitting at a computer for hours on end programming, I much prefer the management type role. Telecommunications or Teaching is where I want to be. The computer science course is considered to be the blue collar non-management type course.

You can indeed. The rb26 head bolts are slightly larger, this is the only difference between the headgaskets.

I would most definitely be checking the cam timing. Ensure it has been setup correctly and then drop a set of adj cam gears on it and see how u go. How is the power curve when it wants to ping? Does it want to only ping at a certian rpm range? i.e in my case 4000rpm I have had valve float issues where i bumped boost up and it would always want to ping at 4000rpm + the power curve would go flat from then onwards. The last I highly doubt. But a few things to look at.

I was only able to run 12.5psi before the fuel pump began failing causing the car to lean out. Don't just wind boost up, throw it on a dyno and ensure its all ok. Tuning, no detonation, correct spark plug heat range and driving style (no track work) + a little luck is the key to having the stock turbo hang in there at 1bar for a long period of time. Failing to do so will kill the turbo. Other than that I ran up to around 1bar with no issues, at first with a bleeder that caused boost to drop back to around 12psi, then an ebc that held boost @ 1bar, then a wastegate mode with no ebc that held boost @ 1bar. In my case 178,000km's (111,000km's @ 1bar) before it was dropped on the rb30det that only required 9psi to make similiar (but still more) power. After a total of ~195,000kms the turbo is still fine and feels better than some perfectly good r33 and r34 turbo's i've seen, I pulled it off in favour of a larger turbo. I'll keep the stock rb20det turbo should I ever have to drop it back on for other reasons.

Hopefully I don't have to report that engine failure Geoff. I'm going to rip the ones out of the vl block and see how far I can push the old restrictors down. If the galley doesn't taper or do anything silly I will push the old ones down and simply drop the new ones on top. While on the topic.. I've been told the RB26 Tomei headgasket kits from nengun come with the restrictors. RB25/rb20 doesn't. Yet they have similiar price. Is this really the case or do the tomei restrictors have to be purchased seperately? Either way I'll drop nengun an email and post back my findings.

Figured as much. My main concern with drill and tap is leaving metal filings in the block. I could grab a hoover or something as I drill or make an attachment to fit down the galley after its removed to suck out any possible filings but its always a worry. Any suggestions?

Some one recently had this same issue. Do a search and drop a PM as I'm sure he's sorted it out by now. Remember to search greater than the default 30days.

How have the cams been modified? Running adj. cam gears? Did he try run a little more overlap? Bit of a bugger when so many things are done at once, hard to track down why or whats causing it.

Its probably only the first section of the number that matters. 23100. We all seem to have the same first section of the number, just different last.

Fat32, How many kays did you travel in the ~3yrs? Any city/peak driving?

Remove the drain plug. Std they contain a magnet, this will give a slight indication.

Indeed it is. Either way it has to come out if there's no spigot or it WILL stuff the box. No if's no buts.

StockyMcStock, Have you any links on other motors using your setup? I'm keen to look in to this more, not that I'll be doing it, more so out of curiosity. Hurry up and get it running.