Cubes

When I got mine the first thing I thought was.... RB30DET... 3yrs later I got it in, 1yr later its still got a small crappy turbo on it.. lol

That bent from an accident comment is plain stupid. lol, if that were the case the thing would be driving down the road with the rear wheel on one white line while the opposite diagional wheel on the other. lol. I've tried and failed.. All though I could have given it a bit more of a heavy hand.

My old A/C Condensor / Engine over heat fan was on its way out as it makes horrid loud grinding noises. I made a few measurements, a 14" fan fits in there quite nicely. I picked up an eBay 14" Proflow thermofan that apparently pushes 2300cfm for $70 + postage. Which is half decent, both the cfm and price. I received it today, it looks slightly different to the pic on ebay but for the better. It has curved blades which in my book is better than the straight crude things and even better its rather quiet for how much air it pushes. It flows a hell of a lot of air and you can really feel the pressure when you place your hand behind the radiator, I have no doubt it does flow somewhere close to 2300cfm. The quality feels better than the Davis fans. So ppls... Replace that 12" with a 14", a little better cooling during summer on those 40degree days sitting in traffic, no doubt it will help keep the a/c icy and engine temps lower. I'll take a few pics and see how it drives tomorrow and update. For now here's a pic of the fan.

Looks like its going to be around a week until I sort out the group buy. I've got lots on my plate at the moment.. Uni enrollment, work, and I've just received a couple of packages in the mail for the car.

Mine started to go lean after 12.5psi, it made 152rwkw. A new fuel pump was required for 14psi as the old one was a little tired. As expected, the car was 10-11yrs old at the time. I ran the turbo at 15psi then 16psi towards the end. It was fine. Providing the tuning is ok and egt's are kept as low as possible (no lean, no detonation, no super rich, no track or extended periods of WOT)

Awesome.. Push the rb20 and lets see where she pops.

If it gets up on boost. I assume you have gone a .63 turbine? The .63 should start going well at around 5000rpm maybe a little more. :S Twin 12" fans without a shroud wouldnt keep mine cool in traffic. Would always boil.

yer the search function can be a bit of a pain in the arse some times. Practice makes perfect. I'm soon to grab a lightened flywheel, this time around I will grab one witha replaceable insert. Ceramic clutch's hammer them.

Lightened flywheels have been covered many many times before on this board. I found the car to accelerate easier from a standing start, gear changes at wot felt quicker and much less likely to crunch, overall there was zero negatives, zero difference in fuel consumption, zero difference in vibration.

As I said, the pfc sorted out my slight idle hunt. I believe the stock ecu has a small idle adjust screw? Mine didnt appear to do anything though.

Shows I skim read. My stock ecu always had a funny idle, the pfc idle is now rock solid providing I set it up properly.

The pfc uses ign in an attempt to lower idle in conjunction with the AAC. This is what it looks like it is trying to do. Whats your base idle set to in the pfc? I would disconnect the aac and reset your idle when warm to as close but ensure its not over the pfc's set idle a/c off. Reconnect the aac. Init the pfc, load in your maps, start the car and send it through the 30min idle learn. For the next few days it will still occasionally play up, let it do its thing then all of a sudden you will think.. oh shiet its idling perfectly smooth. DO NOT attempt to change the idle rpm as it will bugger it up and you will constantly have a crap idle from then on. For some silly reason I've always had to init the pfc for it to relearn the idle properly. If this doesn't work ensure your aac is clean from gum (remove and pull apart, soak and clean) Also ensure the solanoid is working. Hitting the A/C button is an easy way to test, idle should raise, same with turning your power steer. I would then attempt swapping of the cas and all the other harder and more expensive solutions.

I believe Bu5ter is reving his to 8500rpm. Std crank, std cradle, forged rods, forged pistons, full length oil pump drive and most important... An ATI balancer and some one who knows how to rebuild a motor very well.

lol. I'm never going to get a decent turbo on mine at this rate.

PBR don't do one for the R32 as far as I'm aware.. Its another brand.. I replaced mine, slave w around $40, the master cyl was $75 or there abouts. I will try and find the pics I took of the part number(s). I think I listed the part numbers in an SA thread I made a while back.

I didn't buy it. These turbo's do make good power BUT..... google is your friend.

The HKS2530 on the RB25 isn't much of an upgrade with regards to peak power but mid range power is simply awesome.

High boost is fine providing its tuned well.

12 or 14mm thread?

I replaced all my rubber coolant/fuel hoses. Cost me a good $500 just there. BUT it is an R32 and they are at least 14yrs old now. Remember there is the issue of engine height if you run the std plenum.

Sky30's was the same as mine.. R32 GTST RB20DET, only difference was I ran the stock ecu at first for the run in, he already had a microtech in. I did the remove and install. Block and tackle up to the motor, pulled out the radiator, shove a pice of chip board behind the a/c condensor to protect it from any bangs. Remove the gearbox and motor out at the same time, the longest part is taking all the little bits of, radiator out etc. The trick is not to be afraid, grab little bags and write on them what the bolts are for. It is comforting knowing that you have a cheap rb30 bottom end under the rb25 head, if it blows you have wasted and or your not up for big bucks. Grab another and off u go again. Spend 3-5k or something on a bottom end and there's always that worry. The only down side of the 3ltr is it needs an aftermarket exh. manifold if you want it holding power to 7k, otherwise it falls over after 5.5-6k depending on the turbo.

Pulling a motor out is seriously very easy. Only a few plugs and wires, nothing difficult at all. I left the engine build to my engine builder as I was throwing quite a bit of money at it via forged pistons and what not so I didn't want it to go pop. BUT.. .If I were to do it again I would follow Sky30's route, grab a second hand running rb30e and simply drop the head on it. At least if it pops who cares, drop another s/h motor in. Rough price.. for just the labour of removal and isntall of the motor I would estimate 1000-2000. Then add any stupid charges the mechanical work place decides to rip you off on. They always do.

Having some one else do the labour of remove/installing the motor is always going make the project expensive. It does make it hard if you don't have or don't know anyone with a garage and a few tools. Then there's the issue of trying to find some one who is willing to give it a go and not charge you for the research they have to do. Even though I had done most of the research my engine builder said he doesn't believe in charging for research as its his fault he doesn't know what is to be known about the setup. BUT he did say a motor is a motor, they are basic and there's nothing difficult about what we were trying to do.. being the rb30det. He came from a racing background where they had fiddled with rod/stroke/bore combinations to achieve the best reliability and spread of power so he was not afraid of a little hybrid motor. On the other hand the place that rebuilt my head previously charged a customer who owned a VL $2000 for research in to the build, bloody rip off. So be carefull.

Might look at a group buy. Give me a few days I'll see what I can work out.

Bugger.. No vacuum leaks?? Looks like thats the way its heading.