Cubes

PSI is the boost it runs. There's no point upping the boost unless you have an exhaust. Running simply an exhaust with the std. intercooler I wouldn't run more than 12psi. Replace the stock intercooler with a larger front mount item, you can then run slightly higher boost. Before you do anything Do a bit of searching via the search button. Learn what everything is and means. Do a bit of googling also. http://auto.howstuffworks.com/turbo.htm http://auto.howstuffworks.com/question122.htm http://auto.howstuffworks.com/engine.htm http://auto.howstuffworks.com/horsepower.htm http://auto.howstuffworks.com/engine.htm

No regrets.. Its an awesome motor for the street. Not buying a GTS4 is my biggest regret, At the time I thought, no need for 4wd + its extra weight, I only want ~200rwkw. lol

As said above. What oil are you running? Slap some thicker Castrol 10w60 in the sucker.

Is it spiking? It could be spiking causing a lean condition, resulting in the flat then kick feeling. Thats if I've interpereted your post correctly. EDIT: I still suspect the std pump is on its last legs. Being 10+yrs old and all. At around 80,000km's my std pump was right on the limit at 12psi. If you can find a cheap $35 power run then do it.. I wouldn't be spending $80 on a simple 1 minute power run. That $80 can be better spent on a new pump, as after all... if you are like the majority, we all get the bug, end up dialing more boost, ecu, injectors turbo.. Money permitting of coarse. I've managed almost 10k worth of mods in the last 2.5years while I've been studying full time at Uni. 6k was spent silly as I didn't 'really' need the rb30det as the rb20det was perfectly fine. lol

15psi is fine on the rb20det. RB25det I wouldn't go past 12psi. My RB20DET turbo ran 1bar and towards the end 1.1bar for 100,000km's. (170,000km's total) I've always believed heat is the killer of the ceramic turbine wheel, not so much overspeeding as on the rb20det 15psi is not overspeeding. Dial in 20psi and you may see overspeeding but to be honest, if its not tuned I'd lay bets the heat will get to it first, heat being generated by a lean detonating mixture. Lean mixtures create high egt's, retarded ignition timing creates high egt's. So.. Run it richer and dial in more ignition timing = cooler egt's. Better for the turbo.

Use the search button or create a new thread where appropriate.

Prior to replacing my earths with big fat suckers the pfc reading was from memory .2-.3v's out. Since the earths have been replaced the reading is spot on.

The basic near std mods that are safe and shouldn't even require it to be thrown on a dyno.. FMIC, Exhaust, new larger fuel pump (bosch or gtr), bleeder, copper spark plugs .8mm gap (NGK BCPR6E). Dial in 15psi, set ignition timing to 15degree's and it should run fine providing injectors are fine.

Fouled plugs?

My knock levels are not influenced by the road conditions. If you are getting a little knock when coming off the throttle or randomly, check your injectors as they may need cleaning.

For Oil to be blowing out of the bleeder there must be quite a bit of oil blowing about. My little old RB20DET that clockde 170k running 1bar had zero oil in the piping, let alone any coming out of the bleeder.

The same could be said for an old TC/TD/TE Cortina or LJ Torry etc. 250 or 302/308 with a turbo or two bolted on the side of it. Cheap. I grew up around rotors, its what initially got me in to the turbo scene. They use fuel, there is no doubt about that. NA R33, if your mates rotor is using less fuel than the gtr then something is wrong with the gtr.

Could be.. Throw it on a dyno for a cheap power run. Power runs I've found to vary from $35 right up to $80 odd.

I think your little rb20t still has it over bl4ck32's rb30. revs revs revs and power that holds up over a wide rpm is what matters at the track.

Good straight through mufflers that don't impeed the airflow won't affect performance much at all. I plan to replace the center resonator with a decent straight through muffler to keep the cabin drone and noise levels down once I fit the larger turbo. Larger turbo's place less of a restriction on the exhaust, as a result they also make the car louder.

288rwkw

It may be the sender. Mine does this 'occasionally', the little ol rb20 did this as does the rb30. My sender is dicky and appears to play up 'occasionally' when it gets hot. Completely random, then all of a sudden its ok again. It may be the oil your running? My oil pressure when cold is well over the 8. Idle is inbetween the first and second line. Cruise is some where above 4 and above 3500-4000rpm is up around 7. I'm using an rb25det pump.

3rd - According to the dyno sheet. Falcon XR6T, With regards to the boost you are running. Is the dyno sheet correct? 6.887923 kPa = ~ 1 PSI, damn thats some insane boost your running. Peaking at ~31psi then tailing off to ~29psi by readline. You are in Adelaide arn't you? It would be good to slap it on a dyno dynamics dyno for a power run to see how she fares. Blackwood Auto and Dyno only charge $35 for a power run. We would then overlay yours with rb20/25/26 and 30's. See the below thread, its a similiar setup RB running a .82 turbine housing, .7 comp cover but only 18-19psi. <click> Dyno figures vary greatly, the amount of boost your running, you should be seeing over 350rwkw. However, I'm not 100% sure how the .5 comp cover really affects or more so restricts the higher boost level efficiencys. I strongly believe that there is no replacement for displacement. Get it on that dyno and impress your self. I suspect your dynolog is reading low compared to the dyno's us mugs 'generally' use.

There's always going to be something quicker. Its about the ride. I sure as hell would much rather drive a nice R33 than an old 1974 RX3. Depends what you want out of a car. Rattles, air leaks, whistels....

4.4k? includes trans mods?

Thats definitely an awesome power curve.. Just looking at how it bumps straight to ~180rwkw then 200 then 250rwkw so early in the power run is well... OFFENSIVE! AFRs are fine, quite nice actually. What turbine housing are you running on the GT35r?

There's zero point in doing so. For it to run correctly you will need to have the safc stating something like HW4 IN HW2 OUT. Thats basically stating HW4 (Z32) IN HW2 (RB) Out. So the SAFC bends the voltage back to what it would be if it were running a RB. So, in short you achieve nothing, zilch, zero!. The reason the SAFC is able to do such a thing is the SR20's run a very small restrictive afm, 45mm from memory. By using a RB afm and bending the voltage as such you you have a nice little SR20 that is able to breath much easier through the 80mm OD afm rather than the 45mm. If you were to force it to work the only true way it wouldn't detonate or be very close to detonating is by running an ITC AND an SAFC. An ITC controls the ingition timing, by telling the ecu that you are flowing less air (which is what the Z32 afm does) you will be using a lower load point. Lower load points carry very high load points. UNLESS that is your RB afm has had the fritz, there's no point wasting money an on rb afm if you come across a Z32 for a decent price.

You must be running a really old version of adobe acrobat reader or nothing at all. www.adobe.com Grab a multimeter for the rb26dett afm and find out what is what. Post back the results and I will include it in the pdf. A picture or two would also be awesome.

What was the import. What was its comp ratio. The RB25DET will not last, rb20 I think you could get away with it.

So you've had the g/box rebuilt with a different gear set? Care to post 'ALL' of the mods done. After all this is a bit of a heads up thread of what the aus cars can now do with such 'little' mods.