SKYPER

AD4M, so your car did have lightweight flywheel. I guess it would explain the good drivability. Also you need a valve spring upgrade with 264 intake 8.9mm lift, 264 exhaust 8.9mm lift cams. At higher rpms, might get valve bounce due to weaker stock valve springs. I wouldn't take the chance of a valve hitting piston crown or damaging camshaft lobe at higher rpms. There's like a set of valve springs suited to different duration, lift cams (for example Type A, Type B, etc). Even though you don't need a valve spring upgrade with Tomei Poncams, there is set of valve springs suited to those camshafts if stock valve springs need to be replaced. HKS 264 intake, 256 exhaust seems to be a good setup for a GTRS turbo on SR20DET for street / racetrack use (240-270rwkw). I wouldn't think that RB20DET would be any different, as there is that option from HKS for RB20DET. I guess T04Z would suit HKS 272 duration cams, RB24 engine (stroked RB20), as I saw a Blue R32 GTS-T dragcar (for sale) in Japan with that setup. Claimed output was around 540ps.

Did engine have a light weight flywheel when you installed those camshafts??? Read this - http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/flywheel/how_...wheel_works.htm For RB25 turbo, 256 Tomei Poncams would be better.

Stock R32GTR turbo probably would be too small but N1 turbo might be similar to a HKS 25/30 turbo with the T3 62 trim compressor wheel. Is it R33 N1 turbo or R34 N1 turbo??? You can buy an adaptor plate for GTR turbo on GTS. Like for example a T25 turbo on T3 exhaust manifold, that bolts between turbo, exhaust manifold. In the link below is an adaptor plate for T25 turbo on a T3 exhaust manifold (scroll to the bottom in the link below) - http://www.horsepowerinabox.com/HPIAB2/category15_1.htm Not sure if it's the correct adaptor plate for the GTR turbo on GTS manifold. Although with the adaptor plate, GTR turbo, might have modify the intake piping, angle of dumppipe + front pipe to suit this new spaced out turbo setup.

I would compare RB25 to a similar capacity motor like RB26. SR20, RB20 are more even, as they are in the same 2.0 litre class and produce around the same peak hp (600-700hp) when modified. Also look at what the RB20DET was competing against in the 80's (Japan, Australia, UK). That would be Honda Civic, Ford Cosworth, BMW M3, etc.

R32 GTS-T with cams, bigger turbo, diffhead upgrade, etc - Idling - Roys car with I gather is stock cams, bigger turbo, etc -

The 2.0 litre inline 6 motor dates back to the Hakosuka GTR (1969-1972) with a N/A 2.0 litre inline 6, which produced an awesome sound from the exhaust and won 58 races. I've searched and found this link to what the Hakosuka GTR sounds like and the race history of this amazing car - RB20 in the GTS-R (1987-1989) continued this awesome sound and is why most buy the GTS-R and lightly mod it. Here's what the GTS-R sounds like - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bnKpNRZR-B0 R32 GTS-T (1989-1993) inherited the victory spec version of RB20DET from the GTS-R. The R32 GTS-T had bigger brakes than GTS-R and better chassis, suspension setup but engine was detuned for road use. For sound = RB20 For power = RB25, RB26, RB30 Since you like torque and are used to it, I would say R33 or R34 GTT with RB30 (3.0 litre bottomend).

It seems to be a RB24S - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nissan_RB_engine#RB24S The above link mentions fitting a twin cam head and keep the carb setup.

Just noticed there's a RB20 (I gather RB24) in the Top RB20 Club making similar power figure (367rwkw) with cams + HKS TO4ZR turbo at 23psi (post #1602) - http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/To...&start=1600

Wow, that's just amazing.

If engine idles at 1500rpm when warm, it can be due to a faulty AFM. Check the stock ECU for fault codes.

There is a "rolling road" dyno that measures km/h. But is for checking speedo accuracy. They put a device on the dash which displays speed at the wheels and compare to speedo speed. I had my car tested on this dyno. Goes up to 180km/h on the certificate of accuracy.

N1 cams have the same lift, duration as stock GTR cams but the central angles are different - http://www.tomei-p.co.jp/_2003web-catalogu...haft-specs.html

As far as I know R35 GTR doesn't have HICAS.

From what I remember Nissan has recommended idle times for city, motorway, etc, before switching engine off. I think they were roughly 1 minute for city, 3 minute for motorway. Also on the R32 they had a rocker switch on the dash (next to steering wheel) which has a turbo symbol on it. I presume this was a factory turbo timer????

From what I understand cam specs depends on turbo type, flow of head, application, etc. My advice would be to talk to a cam specialist. This is an example of what they will probably ask you for - https://www.safe.net.nz/kelford_co_nz/designshop.php 260 duration and above should give you that lumpy racecar idle. The downside is the loss of bottomend with a J looking bottomend on power graph (RB26 motor). RB30 might be different due to extra capacity.

RB20DET is probably cheaper second hand than SR20DET, RB25DET if something does go wrong with the engine. R33 chassis supposedly has the better front suspension setup with R32 second and S13, S14, S15 last. Also R33 has the 296mm R32 GTR style front rotors vs 280mm on R32, 280mm on S13??, S14, S15. R33 has a stronger gearbox and drivetrain than R32 or S13, S14, S15. Looking at the above, R33 chassis without the RB25DET motor for under 10K and fit the lighter SR20DET or cheaper RB20DET. Or a single turbo RB26DET (solid cams) with around 400hp.

I've only experienced the heavy steering problem when the car had HICAS ECU problems. From what I understand you can bypass the HICAS solenoid in engine bay that sends fluid to the rear of car. This supposedly bypasses the part that can cause the steering to go heavy. Also from what I remember there is a tutorial on SAU forums about how to bypass the HICAS solenoid in the engine bay.

From what I understand Turbo Timers are for cars without engine oilcoolers. A Turbo Timer allows time for the engine oil to cool down to a reasonable temperature before turning the engine off. If you don't let the oil cool down before switching the engine off, the turbo could get coking (dried oil deposits) which blocks the oilways inside turbo. The result with blocked oilways is less oil reaching the bearings inside turbo and eventually turbo failure. The harder, longer you push your car, the higher the oiltemps hence why more idle time is needed to bring down the oil temps. If you push your car hard all the time, buy a engine oilcooler with thermostat sandwich plate and oil temp gauge to monitor oil temps.

It looks like a Deer by the way it walks, jumps, etc. Unless it's a Great Dane - http://www.fordogtrainers.com/index.asp?Pa...amp;ProdID=1301 I wonder if the robot will fall over when a neck with extra weight is added to the body. It will be a different world when they get a fully functioning, thinking robot to look like this - http://news.nationalgeographic.com/news/20...0610_robot.html It's like a Cherry 2000 in this movie - http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0092746/ Cherry 2000 actress - http://www.imdb.com/media/rm3236532736/nm0317293

Try it and see if there is a difference. It should temporarily clear fault codes, reset ECU to main ignition, fuel maps. If there is a failed sensor or something else is wrong, it probably will revert back to what ECU was set to before resetting ECU. I think you remove the negative first and cover up the negative terminal with a cap. This is to make sure you dont touch the positive terminal + negative terminal or positive terminal + chassis which is connected to negative terminal. This could happen when you have a spanner in your hand and get a nasty surprise. Then remove the positive cable. Reverse this order when reconnecting battery with positive first and negative last Don't know much about cats, but I would think that a bigger volume cat would flow better.

Increase in boost level from aftermarket exhaust should lean out the A/F (Air / Fuel) ratio, which makes the engine produce more power. I wonder if the stock ECU has switched to the low octane maps that has the retarded igniton map and richer fuel map. I guess a richer A/F ratio would explain the power drop. What octane fuel do you use???? It should be at least BP 98 octane. Have you reset the stock ECU by disconnecting and then reconnecting the battery????

Listen for where the sound is coming from. When driving - If from just behind front seats, it's the propshaft (main driveshaft) hanger bearing. If from just behind gearstick, it's the rear gearbox mount. Also gearstick will move from side to side more than usual. If from diffhead it's the back lash inside the diffhead which is normal. It happens when backing off throttle after accelerating quickly. Although I have been told that a diffhead can get excessive backlash.

Look at this crash in Townsville - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nGz8S5VMr3o...feature=related

I presume you mean like this RB26 in the photo below - http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/r2...6Buildup057.jpg Thread adaptor for short block - http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/r2...6Buildup056.jpg The above sandwich plate is a Mocal sandwich plate with a thread adaptor for the short block. I noticed it cost's roughly $20 USD for the thread adaptor and $90 USD for the Mocal sandwich plate. Oil relocation kit fits on top of sandwich plate, where oil filter goes on the sandwich plate and the lines from side of sandwich plate go to oil cooler core. Oil filter on top of sandwich plate - http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/r2...6Buildup058.jpg Another way (I presume the way you want to do it) is to mount the Permacool (or Mocal) remote take off to the short block in place of the Mocal sandwich plate, then run lines to remote filter plate. Then fit sandwich plate to where oilfilter goes on remote filter plate. Then oil lines from side of sandwich plate to oil cooler core - http://www.trackscotland.co.uk/images/cooooler.jpg

Permacool sell something similar to your photo but is spin on - http://www.performancecenter.com/products?...name=PERMA-COOL