SKYPER

Yes they are interchangeable. As far as I know the backing plate that cam belt top cover bolts to is different between RB26DETT, RB20DET. Some have modified the stock RB20DET backing plate to work with RB26DETT cam belt top cover. Don't know about RB25DET cam belt top cover, but would assume it uses the same backing plate as RB20DET.

What's the thickness of pipe, flanges??? Sinco Customs makes good quality top mount steampipe exhaust manifolds in NZ - http://www.sincocustoms.co.nz/view-product...p%20Mount%29/16 10 year gaurantee to not to crack. Also made of 3.7mm thick steampipe that keeps heat in and exhaust velocity up and 12mm flanges that won't warp. 20-30kw gains with higher boost levels.

Nismo fuelpump. From what I understand, in Nismo fuelpump kit, it has everything in the kit to fit fuelpump and O ring, etc that needs to be replaced (you buy O ring, etc from Nissan dealership / parts department if you buy a aftermarket fuelpump).

Supertech oversized valves are stainless (1.0 mm oversize intake valves are shown in link below, but they make exhaust valves) - http://www.frsport.com/Supertech-NIVN-1052...mm_p_15780.html Supertech website (click on dealers at bottom to see distributor in Australia) - http://www.supertechperformance.com Used in F1, Nascar, etc. Or Unique Autosports sells a set of Supertech valves - http://www.uniqueautosports.com/pricelists...ylineengine.htm Supertech bronze valve guides, etc are mentioned here - http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Su...es-t301309.html

I agree. Go to somebody who tunes Nistune and ask them to plug laptop up to car and check that TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) is touching idle contact (can see this in Nistune tuning software) or go to Nissan and use Consult. If not touching idle contact (I think ECU switches to idle tables) or TPS fault code shows up, that's the problem. AAC valve is often blamed, but most overlook the TPS. TPS is used by ECU for transient throttle enrichment or adds fuel when throttlebody suddenly opens (like an accelerator pump on carb engine) and when misadjusted or faulty, ECU thinks engine needs more fuel than it does, so floods engine and revs drop. You'll notice the problem more on steep hills where engine has load on it or with aircon, etc on and moving car around a parking lot. Sometimes engine can stall out of the blue when slowing down.

I gather factory runs conservative ignition timing and runs engine rich to help in solving the heat soak problem with stock SMIC??? Also stock car has a airbox. Actually part of the cause could be exposed podfilter sucking in hot air from engine fan at idle and raising intake temps, as I've noticed on a hot day that temps in engine bay rise when car is stationary and hot air gets blown onto podfilter from engine fan. But when car is moving, it should be getting enough cooler airflow to drop intake temps a bit, unless it's a very hot day. Maybe cold airbox or switching back to stock airbox might help??? The benefit of front mounting SMIC might have a similar cooling effect as front mount intercooler. They wouldn't have done it on the R35GTR with 2x small intercoolers with ducting, etc, if they didn't see the benefit. Even with upgraded intercoolers on R35GTR that are similar in size to ARC 105mm intercooler, it seems from the data supplied in link below to keep intake temps down and cool slightly better than factory intercoolers. So I guess it works when SMIC is front mounted (might be worth comparing intake temp data in link below with dyno run intake temp data???) - http://www.gtrblog.com/2009/06/03/greddy-s...ping-in-the-us/ They have achieved up to 822awhp with upgraded intercoolers in link above, upgraded turbo's, etc on garage Saurus R35GTR with 22psi - http://www.gtrblog.com/2009/08/12/trust-an...s-834ps-wheels/ I gather GOTO R35GTR runs a similar setup, as they have run 22.5psi through 2x intercoolers, bigger turbo's, etc for 787awhp, as shown in link below - GOTO R35GTR was racing at Thunderhill, which I think is in Texas, where air temps might be higher - R35GTR ECU might have IAT sensor, so be able to compensate for increased intake airtemp. But they must be running high boost levels, as GOTO R35GTR looks quick. Autotrans oilcoolers are similar, as closer to aircon / radiator core the better the autotrans oilcooler cools. So the R31 GTS-R intercooler idea sounds good, but from what I have seen in photo's, GTS-R had the aircon core mounted flat, under front of GTS-R (can't remember what side it was on, but might have been driver side). R32 has aircon core infront of radiator which might become a problem.

Wow, sounds bad heat soak wise. Have you tried removing plastic archway panel behind SMIC to see if it makes a difference??? Heat buildup behind SMIC and the resulting heat soak on back of SMIC is a known problem with SMIC configuration. More so with ARC SMIC (105mm), as SMIC can touch plastic archway panel giving little or no space for hot air to escape SMIC and would heat soak the back of SMIC. ARC sell plates made of I guess is aluminium? with louvers for archway plastic panel that help with evacuating hot air behind SMIC. So I gather they knew the problem was there and found a solution for oilcooler and SMIC. R34GTT had a side duct in front bumper to help with removing hot air behind stock SMIC. I would think FMIC would have radiator fan, gap behind intercooler, etc, which helps to evacuate the hot air from behind intercooler. Another option is front mounting the SMIC, like found on stock R35GTR, which should solve the heat soak on back of intercooler problem. I have seen this front mounted SMIC idea on one R32. Here's the ARC louvers (Wind Master) for plastic archway panel that I was talking about on ARC website and shows the airflow differences with and without Wind Master panel - http://www.arcinter.co.jp/arc/products/ext...ster/index.html Also factory plastic ducting that goes to stock SMIC would help with air entering SMIC core, not going around SMIC core.

Check your cars ECU tune. Look at your cars engine A/F ratio and where the sound occurs while accelerating - http://img10.imageshack.us/img10/9359/afri.jpg Lean A/F ratio = hotter combustion gasses and when mixed with slightly hotter intake temps on hot day, bad batch of fuel, engine could knock. Info on A/F ratio - http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarre...bo_tech102.html When engine knocks with stock R32 RB20DET ECU maps, stock R32 RB20DET ECU doesn't pull ignition timing on knock ignition map. It does add fuel above 4400rpm or so when engine knocks via knock fuel map (on boost, etc).

I think the answer to your question is on this page (Type A, B Poncams for RB26) - http://www.tomei-p.co.jp/_2003web-catalogu...0_cam_RB26.html

Cool, thank you for the link.

Damn, some impressive cars. Not sure if these videoclips have been posted. I think that off corner is in this video clip (Adz is at 1:32 in the video clip, followed by the R35 GTR) - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cCIipO4kke4...feature=related R35 GTR at Superlap - Incar footage of a R32 GTR at Superlap - I'm amazed at the 4wd Pajero?? in the first video clip at 3:29. Would be interesting to see what lap times he was achieving. Another video clip - Evo rolled at Superlap -

Interesting project, can't wait to see the final product. Below is a videoclip of 73 Skyline with what might be a triple 2 barrel side draught setup from a S20 motor (Skyline 2000 GT-R) on a R31 RB20DE? Triple 2 barrel side draught setup on a S20 motor - http://www.datsunhistory.com/skylineeng.jpg

Cool ad.

From what I understand you have to know 2 things when selecting a turbo - 1.) Application (racecar, streetcar, dragcar, targa, etc) 2.) HP you want from engine For example with application - Street - short runner exhaust manifold, small turbo, small A/R exhaust housing, etc for low to mid boost response but lose peak hp (factory car). Racetrack - long runner manifold, bigger turbo, bigger A/R exhaust housing, etc for more mid to peak hp but lose boost response. That's why some have 2 different engines with 2 different turbo's for racetrack, dragracing. Garage Saurus would probably be a good example with their R32 GTR that has a 9 sec drag engine + turbo setup and racecar engine + turbo setup.

The S15 supposedly has a boost restrictor in one of the hoses (similar to GTR) and when removed + adjustable HKS wastegate, I think 14.7psi is possible. R34 GTT might have a boost restrictor in one of the hoses.

My cars engine had one stud that failed, removed exhaust manifold to replace it and when putting manifold back on and retorqueing, it snapped studs no 6, 7. I agree with changing all of the studs, coil inserts, spring washers, etc.

From what I understand catch can is used on turbo engines running higher boost levels for long periods, like motorway or racetrack. The factory system works by air starting at the intake pipe side (before turbo) and ending up inside the intake plenum via the PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) valve. You have to block PCV valve hole off and block the intake pipe hole (before turbo) and run 2 hoses from each camcover to the catch can. Then run a single vent line to under the back of engine. Or vent via a filter on top of the catch can. Size in litres, depends on engine capacity and racing regulations. I think 1 litre is minimum for a RB20DET. This is probably one of the best guides to building your own catch can, swirl pot that I have seen with the vent on top of catch can - http://www.autospeed.com.au/cms/A_1576/article.html Autosport Engineering are the people to contact in the above link. From what I understand, what's good about the above catch tank, is it separates the oil from the air.

I think there is a electrical trick you have to do to with Bosch fuel pump. Not sure, but I think it might have been to do with the voltage the pump receives. Here's a thread about installing Bosch fuelpump in R32 GTS-T - http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/In...html&hl=040

You're welcome. I think this is the link with torque output, etc - http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/flywheel/ther...torque_loss.htm

Lightened flywheel affects engine acceleration or how fast a engine revs. It can help to reduce the time it takes for engine to reach rpm's where full boost is for turbo. The benefits for dragracing would be when the revs drop as your changing gear and need to get the engine revs back to where peak power, torque are in the rev range. Read this link about how a lightened flywheel works - http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/flywheel/how_...wheel_works.htm From reading the link above, it seems a very light flywheel affects top speed. Nismo or Excedy flywheels seem to be the best compromise between extra engine acceleration and able to reach top speed.

If car has a bigger aftermarket fuelpump, engine probably will be running rich. You'll need to retune stock ECU or buy a aftermarket ECU. Bosch 040 seems to be a 300lph fuelpump, which is probably suited to 6 x 720cc injectors - http://www.boschfuelpumps.com/ I think stock R32 GTR fuelpump is 195lph and R32 GTS-T is 135lph. So the 040 sounds like a bigger fuelpump than stock R32 GTS-T.

Check for exhaust manifold leaks due to exhaust nuts that are not tightened up properly on turbo to exhaust manifold joint. Or lose nuts / broken studs on the exhaust manifold itself (common problem with RB motor). Also check for a sticky IACV valve. IACV valve is located on top of bottom of intake plenum, just behind throttle body when looking from front of car. Clean and readjust the valve. If there's still a starting problem after cleaning valve, replace it. Fuel filter in engine bay or sock (filter) on fuelpump would be next area to look at. Fuel pressure can be checked by plumbing in a fuel pressure gauge between I think is fuel regulator, fuel filter.

What was interesting is that 11sec RB20DET with stock cams, that had a custom intake plenum, bigger turbo on stock exhaust manifold. When you look at what he went through with his build, it's just simple, fast - http://www.cardomain.com/ride/630659/3 I think he posted his 1/4 time, etc on SAU forum somewhere. The above link has the time slip and I think videoclip of run, etc. Here's videoclip link - http://www.cardomain.com/ride/630659/7

I gather I was looking at the 2 litre capacity, not taking into account the valve area, etc, as mentioned in Roys post. Also I remember someone saying the RB20 has to rev more than a 4 cyl??? Maybe more agressive cams might suit RB20???

335, you don't need to upgrade the valve springs. It's an option if you have to replace stock valve springs, due to age. AD4M you are correct, they are 9.0mm lift - http://www.hks-power.co.jp/products/engine...shaft_data.html Stock cams on R32 RB20DET are intake 240 duration, 7.8mm lift / exhaust 240 duration, 7.8mm lift - http://www.tomei-p.co.jp/_2003web-catalogu...haft-specs.html Anything from 260 duration+, it seems engine loses power at bottomend but gains mid to high. Roy, 256 duration seems to give a near to stock cam / turbo powerband (slight drop in bottomend) on a SR20DET with a Garrett GT2871R turbo, upgraded clutch/flywheel, upgraded exhaust manifold, etc - SR20DET dynograph 256 duration should gain more power at the same boost level. I think someone said in the RB20 dyno thread, it was roughly a 18rwkw gain at 1.25 bar??