roba

Hi Trent, Can you confirm what pump / pumps people have run through these sensors? If someone has run twin 044's (600lph) with no problems then that's proof enough for me. Id prefer to avoid the cost and risk of alot of additional fuel connections. Cheers.

Great write up Daniel. I have a sensor ready to install in my boat, I was just wondering why you tee'd off your fuel return line and didn't run all the return fuel through the sensor? Is the sensor restrictive? I have twin 044's and was hoping to run the return through the sensor...

Ive used spool rods in several 700hp+ rb30s with no problems. They now have oils squirters also.

I use two on my boat. one for oil supply from dry sump + sensors one mocal sandwich plate for thermostat - attached to heat exchanger No dramas in terms of "its just another point of failure / leaks" Not sure on clearance issues tho...

Bit more info on it here guys... http://www.nzjetboating.com/yabbse/index.php?PHPSESSID=bebea27e45e9e5a9b5f908a21730ecc2&topic=21985.0 Some engine details: 30 block - oil returns enlarged, 12mm studs, custom 3 stage dry sump, spool kit 26 head - tomei 272 10.8mm cams & springs, exhaust ported, stainless valves, oil returns enlarged greddy plenum port matched , itb's removed, 90mm throttle body, bosch 2000cc injectors, double cored water/air intercooler, crank mounted sensor sinco large diameter twin scroll manifold, twin tial 38mm wastegates, Holset HX-52 turbo(non standard water cooled core 16cm2 turbine and smaller comp cover to fit my setup)71mm comp inducer. Yes, it makes far to much power for a 15ft hull.

Plumbing is arse about face to give enough space for a back seat. Aiming for 800hp in 15ft - should be fun! Having trouble uploading more pics 'You did not select a file to upload'???

My engine builder was finishing off my 26/30 today when one of the tomei camsahfts snapped. Has this has happened to anyone else??? I am certain this is not an insullation fault or damage due to transit as the boxes were in mint condition and there is not a mark on the camshaft. The intake cam will be crack tested tomorrow. Have a look at the photos, please - let me know yr thoughts. Note no oil was added to the break. The clean/fresh bit of metal in the centre was how it looked when it broke.

Hi Im dry sumping my RB30 and my engine builder recommended using 'Signal Seals' for the rear main, front timing cover and cams which are designed to work under vaccume. Is this necessary? What have you guys used in the past? Cheers Rob

Still got them? Ok to send them to NZ? Cheers Rob

Sweet, thanks guys.

Hi As topic stated, I need some exhaust valves for my RB25det head and are really strugling to find any. Would perfer stainless oversize. Any ideas???

Well im pleased to say I found the restriction (yes in the exhaust). Got it retuned this week and made 470rwkw and 2100n.m torque at the hubs. Will post a dyno sheet when I get one printed.

Initally when it was making 250rwkw we dialed in the cams properly (as well as all the other stuff listed on the first couple of posts) and the power jumped up to 370rwkw. We have played with the cam timing on the dyno to find the sweet spot. Power has only gone up not down so I dont think we are too far off from when it was properly dialed in. My engine builder wants to change the cams to increase the duration at 0.05" - esp on the exhaust side. He has shown me specs of HKS RB20 cams with 238 deg at 0.05" (exh) compared to my 216 deg at 0.05". Im just trying to be certain its the right thing to do before throwing any more money at it! Cheers.