roba

Hi Trent, Can you confirm what pump / pumps people have run through these sensors? If someone has run twin 044's (600lph) with no problems then that's proof enough for me. Id prefer to avoid the cost and risk of alot of additional fuel connections. Cheers.

Great write up Daniel. I have a sensor ready to install in my boat, I was just wondering why you tee'd off your fuel return line and didn't run all the return fuel through the sensor? Is the sensor restrictive? I have twin 044's and was hoping to run the return through the sensor...

Ive used spool rods in several 700hp+ rb30s with no problems. They now have oils squirters also.

I use two on my boat. one for oil supply from dry sump + sensors one mocal sandwich plate for thermostat - attached to heat exchanger No dramas in terms of "its just another point of failure / leaks" Not sure on clearance issues tho...

Bit more info on it here guys... http://www.nzjetboating.com/yabbse/index.php?PHPSESSID=bebea27e45e9e5a9b5f908a21730ecc2&topic=21985.0 Some engine details: 30 block - oil returns enlarged, 12mm studs, custom 3 stage dry sump, spool kit 26 head - tomei 272 10.8mm cams & springs, exhaust ported, stainless valves, oil returns enlarged greddy plenum port matched , itb's removed, 90mm throttle body, bosch 2000cc injectors, double cored water/air intercooler, crank mounted sensor sinco large diameter twin scroll manifold, twin tial 38mm wastegates, Holset HX-52 turbo(non standard water cooled core 16cm2 turbine and smaller comp cover to fit my setup)71mm comp inducer. Yes, it makes far to much power for a 15ft hull.

Plumbing is arse about face to give enough space for a back seat. Aiming for 800hp in 15ft - should be fun! Having trouble uploading more pics 'You did not select a file to upload'???

My engine builder was finishing off my 26/30 today when one of the tomei camsahfts snapped. Has this has happened to anyone else??? I am certain this is not an insullation fault or damage due to transit as the boxes were in mint condition and there is not a mark on the camshaft. The intake cam will be crack tested tomorrow. Have a look at the photos, please - let me know yr thoughts. Note no oil was added to the break. The clean/fresh bit of metal in the centre was how it looked when it broke.

Hi Im dry sumping my RB30 and my engine builder recommended using 'Signal Seals' for the rear main, front timing cover and cams which are designed to work under vaccume. Is this necessary? What have you guys used in the past? Cheers Rob

Still got them? Ok to send them to NZ? Cheers Rob

Sweet, thanks guys.

Hi As topic stated, I need some exhaust valves for my RB25det head and are really strugling to find any. Would perfer stainless oversize. Any ideas???

Well im pleased to say I found the restriction (yes in the exhaust). Got it retuned this week and made 470rwkw and 2100n.m torque at the hubs. Will post a dyno sheet when I get one printed.

Initally when it was making 250rwkw we dialed in the cams properly (as well as all the other stuff listed on the first couple of posts) and the power jumped up to 370rwkw. We have played with the cam timing on the dyno to find the sweet spot. Power has only gone up not down so I dont think we are too far off from when it was properly dialed in. My engine builder wants to change the cams to increase the duration at 0.05" - esp on the exhaust side. He has shown me specs of HKS RB20 cams with 238 deg at 0.05" (exh) compared to my 216 deg at 0.05". Im just trying to be certain its the right thing to do before throwing any more money at it! Cheers.

Autronic SM4 ecu Initially the timing was set to 0 - 0 on the pulleys, last time I was strugling to make power this was checked using deg wheel and dial gauges etc. We found the correct cam timing after dialing in was 7deg Retard and 7deg advance (In & Ex). - it gained a massive amt of pwr. I thought I read in one of sydneykids posts years ago this was normal due to the extra deck height Is this correct??? I expect it is cam specific as well? cheers rob.

Sorry Just to clarify, The cams i have are 272 / 9.35mm - 216 at 0.05" My engine builder thinks these are to small. Anyone agree/disagree with explanations. Cheers

Have checked timing on dyno, and after we converted to crank trigger it rock solid. Its not the exhaust - it's 4" straight through. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/po...98-IMG-2942.jpg My engine builder thinks it is the cams as the duration at 0.05" is 216 and 216 (intake & ex). Advertised duration is 272 with 9.35mm lift I dont know much about this area - can someone confirm this maybe the issue?

Boost control is perfect, manifold runners are 1 1/4 inch steam pipe.

Yeh it was me, i could write a book on the issues ive had.! The GT35r setup first started off with 250rwkw, for all that are interested - some of the issues / things changed were: *Spigit in the new cams was misaligned creating vibration in the CAS causing a large timing fluctuation. *The unit in the ECU that heats the A/F ratio sensor was causing timing problems also. *The boost controller electronics were faulty. *The cam timing wasnt spot on. Im sure there was much more that I have forgotten, during the process we changed the exhaust manifold, the wastegate position, and the A/R of the turbine housing, set a crank trigger to run timing. (none of this probally needed doing) I still had fairly high backpressure, but the car was running good and making good power so i just went out and enjoyed it. That is untill the craving for more caused me to change turbos - highlighting the flow problem. GT35 - A/R 1.06 TO4Z - A/R 1.00 You can see the hole in the manifold collector where the pressure reading were taken. The muffler is 4" straight through. cheers rob

Yes I have dropped the dump pipe, but not when on the dyno. I have droped a tennis ball through it to check for blocks - it came out the other side so it gotta be pretty good. Boost pressure either side of the intercooler is pretty much the same. Dyno numbers aside, the strange thing is it just wont make any more power, we added 3psi boost and 2deg more timing - it only made 10 more kw.!

I have recently upgraded from a GT35r to a TO4Z, but the engine would not make any more power - just exhaust manifold backpressure... RB30_Power_Run1.pdf This is plot of the GT35 run. the TO4Z run is basically the same but has about 500rpm more lag. Exhaust manifold backpressure with GT35 is 30psi TO4Z is 42psi Inlet pressure is 20psi. Any ideas that might cause this backpressure ??? Is the flow through a RB25 head likey to be the problem? Setup is RB30 block - built RB25DET head - kelford cams 272deg 9.35mm lift, valve springs to suit Custom exhaust manifold, merge collector similar to 6boost Tial 44mm wastegate 4" exhaust, not cat 2.5" plumbing to intercooler, 3" after intercooler, 125mm thick GTR cooler. Vh45 throttle body 80-90mm? Jun Style inlet plemum. 720cc injectors Autronic ecu Hoping to make mid 400's rwkw RB30_Power_Run1.pdf

Nizmonut. Here is a RB20DET engine with a RB25det intake gasket overlayed. I really cant see how a R33 rb25 greddy intake plenum will fit a rb20 ???

Did you find the reason for the half shaft poping out??? I have the same problem. Suspension seams all good, cant really use the car as its loosing alot of oil...

I tend to agree, the wastegate setup is pretty much the only thing i havent changed - found real good gains with timming tho. I rung around today, apparently the last 4 numbers are not important, they are manufacture dates/countries etc. Im looking for a bigger exh housing(and to change the wastegate setup), but for the cost of a new housing i may as sell the GT35 and get a twin scroll TO4Z... But like u say XR6 ones are fairly easy to come by, might give it a craic. cheers rob