str00th

i love this forum, so much wisdom i'll order a spigot/pilot bearing on monday and fingers crossed thats the problem but it sure sounds like it

ohhh... i think i see now.. so i need a R34 Rb25det pilot/spigot bearing is that right??

ok well its an R32 1994 RB26dett and a R34 rb25det gearbox does that go? or do i have to change the spigot bearing?

Pretty Basic... Rb26dett, RB25Det box, OS Giken BD Tripple plate clutch lined up and straight slide it up but with about 2cms to go to get it to be flush with the block to do the bolts up, it just stops and no matter how hard we push and twist it wont go in..... had 3 of us trying to get it in and wont go all the way.... It should just slide in right?? Ive spent 3 weekends on it and ready to smash a windscreen!! by no means am i an expert but it should just go in?? HELP!! free SLAP to anyone who can come and put it in.....:S

Cheers, I put it into the shop and they are putting new yoke and balancing for me

I've just come to realize i have to modify my drive shafts tans output yoke to suit the RB25 box i have. I've found that the Z32 yoke is the same also. I have searched but cant find much.. Where can i obtain either an RB25 or Z32 Transmission Output Yoke???

BUMP! ENGINE MUST GO! consider all reasonable offers

Guys, I trying to find where to buy 2 bolt compressor outlet flange for standard GTR t25 turbo's for a custom piping job. gcg dont sell them and i've googled, ebayed and i cant seem to find em. anyone?? surely people do custom piping jobs and buy them somewhere!

nah mate sorry. Just give nissan spare parts a call. They always have everything when i call em.

bump! need help identifying my box guys!!

bump

If you cant afford the PFC then turn the boost down and wait untill you can afford it

Just went to Pirtek at Hendra to get some lines done up and they had no idea about turbo lines. im a little bit worried.. He said he mite have to weld up the original fittings? Got any ideas? where do you go when you do like big twin upgrades etc? Because i upgraded to tomei manifolds none of the original lines reach the turbo and its way to far to bend.

Yer that one from nPower will fit. Option one garage sell them if your in brisbane, save yourself the freight charge. http://www.option1garage.com.au/xxturbos.htm

I thort they were M14x1.5 but dont hold me to that

Hey all, I have an R34 Rb25DET gearbox. Its an engine conversion job, so its not actually in a R34. Im trying to purchase a C's shifter, and i have to give the year of the car to suit the right shifter. All i know is there is a Series 1 and Series 2 R34 GTT and the Series 2 has a shorter throw, much like the nismo. Can anyone help me out as to how i find out wether i have a series 1 or 2 R34 GTT box? Or will either of the R34 C's shifter be fine??

Well, after bolting the new manifolds and turbos up, i realized quickly that the oil drain flange are different sizes, the oil and water lines don't match up buy a long way, looks like i need to get some lines done up after all I could of sworn these turbos are supposed to be "bolt on upgrade" ?

Well, that was one stubborn pulley bolt to say the least! Called a good mate that owns a workshop and got the biggest dam impact wrench i have ever seen! Still took a good minute or two drilling away, but got the bastard in the end! *NOTE TO ALL!* GET THE BIGGEST IMAPCT WRENCH POSSIBLE thanks for the help guys!

Item: RB26DETT Standard Exhaust Manifolds Price: $200 ONO SOLD Item: RB26DETT Standard Camshafts Price: $200 ONO Item: RB26DETT Standard Cam Gears Price: $110 ONO All in Great condition Location: Brisbane (northside) Contact: 0403 865 415

Hey All, I think i need some tips/tricks, help or something.. Im changing the timing belt (rb26) atm while the engine is on my engine stand. I have the flywheel bolts wedged into the stand with a shifter, and a breaker bar on the harmonic balancer bolt giving it all my might and bodyweight. Bent the shifter..... Ok so i wedged a breakerbar instead of a shifter and used the air compressor(only 2hp) with a impact drill won't budge AT ALL. Went back to the breaker bar and an extension, gave it some allmighty heaves and bent the breaker bar wedged in the flywheel. I cannot get the dam bolt to budge even a millimeter... Any ideas, tips/tricks? its really starting to annoy me.

I still have all the original lines still in good nick, so i will be using them. Just found out i have a few more expenses to cover so i cant really afford to change the lines anyway

PRICE DROP! rims - $900 firmish GTR front Diff - $300 firmish RB20 - $800 firmish

aite cool, thanks guys

So you don't think its worth getting braided lines to the turbos while I'm at it? just leave the stock lines? The money isnt really the issue, i was just after reliability more then anything. You say you NEVER have problems with the stock lines etc then i guess there is no need to upgrade? Robbie, in regards to power i aim between 300-400 RWKW. Engine is still on the stand and much work left to be done so i have to wait and see what it produces down the track.

Hey All, I been searching like all hell for info on braided oil and water lines for my turbo upgrade. I just purchased two Garrett 2860R-5's and in the process of upgrading i want to do all braided lines while im at it. The engine is on the stand atm so its not a big issue to get the lengths etc right. Have any of you done braided lines on a low mount turbo upgrade? Where do i get the threaded flange to the block? and the Threaded flange to the oil drain on the turbo? Sorry if this has already been covered in million posts but i honestly searched and didnt find much. advice on who to go to, what to get, how much you paid would be awesome. cheers