str00th

Like the other guys are saying a big deep cycle will be fine for most applications. However you're looking at at least $300 bucks new for a shitty one. Id go with something at least 500CCA. If you want two battery's, you keep your standard battery and get a secondary deep cycle with whats called a "dual battery isolator" they're about $150 bucks. What happens is when the first battery gets to 50% it swaps to the deep cycle but at the same time it charges both from the alternator. If you know someone with an AMP meter test your battery load with everything on full and that will give you an indication of what battery you need. I myself have a Van with a decent system around 140DB and at max volume is drawing 60amps from the battery, the thing is, its a diesel so it has a 60amp alternator which is pretty big and only just keeps it afloat. I think skylines have a 35 or 40amp or something?(correct me if I'm wrong) So you don't wanna be drawing more then your alternator can charge or you battery will be f**ked quick smart. If its not a deep cycle and you flatten it more then two or three times they are just about f**ked and won't hold a charge. 2c

they sure did!! thats hell messed up haha mad

interested in the turbos and actuators? reason for sale?

Why would you buy an aftermarket ECU when the stock GTR ecu is just as tunable as any aftermarket? just get your stock ECU retuned to suit and save yourself the cash dude....

anodized sounds good, wonder what its worth?

I was thinking of doing the same thing.... im sick of the big shiny wanker effect hanging off the front. I got a hybrid model mounted properly and a stock GTR inter cooler sitting in the garage, its black i wanted to put it on coz it was black but wont fit so i was going to paint the current one black. Reduce efficiency? anyone know?

Well after much discussion you found the problem, good work. Hope it all works out for ya buddy

sucking and blowing then swapping? Wastegates actuators could be stuffed ie. the spring opening the wastegate at any pressure To test that remove the hose running to the actuator and rev and see if it makes any more then 0psi

both fronts bald in 6000k's hmm.... dud tyres?

SOLD Up for Sale is a GTR Front Diff and SUMP asking $500 ono Gearbox also for sale PM for more info.

Well i read every single post so far. From what you guys have said and dyno sheets etc etc i am going with! Garrett 2860R-5's Stainless Steel Manifolds Stainless Steel Dumps With my supporting mods of tomei 260 9.15 cams 700cc sard injectors 3.5" exhaust + highflow cat K N filters Hybrid intercooler Blitz SBC - i color Sard Fuel Reg Boch 044 R32 ECU retuned I should easily pull 300KW+ at 16psi give or take The main difference between the HKS and garrett turbos is the wheel design. They are compressor and turbine may be the same sizes etc but the HKS wheels are upgraded to induce more air etc

BUMP. Price drop $900

Just after rb25 manual box? still got?

If the engine is blow and still started it would be making enough exhaust gas to spin the turbo which should still make some boost pressure. Hence... Sounds like turbo is stuffed, could be either wheel or both?

Yes i have the rear tailshaft. It isn't included. I am selling it seperately if you would like to make an offer

bumpy! No problems that i know of. looking to swap for rb25gtst box... but id take around 1150?

i wouldn't drill out the cam cap holes. If you wreck them they are going to be a lot more expensive to replace then the bolts. If anything sand back the bolts. Sounds strange to me, but I'm no expert...... wait and see what others have to say

Do the tight bolts fit in the other holes? Sounds like whoever owned it previously used more then one type of bolt? e.g. ran out of bolts n chucked any old thing in..

*quote* Until recently, platinum was considered the best material to use on the top of an electrode because of its durability. However, Iridium is 6 times harder, 8 times stronger, and has a melting point 1200 degrees higher than platinum. Put that into a harsh environment such as an engine piston chamber, and you have a spark plug that can resist wear much better than platinum. *quote* For longevity go the iridiums, as long as they are in the correct heat range otherwise they can do more harm then good. After a while just take the plugs out and give em a gentle scrub with a dry soft bristle brush.

f**k the factory! oil every 5k sparkies every 30k (may be overkill but thats just me) 100k on a stock car is legit, but not a modified one. If my car was stock id be changing every 50k. From what i know the platinum plugs are great but don't have a long life. 2c

Id agree with that, unless you have extreme mods and a lot of thrashing

hmmm alot of reading... i take it around a 10-40 is optimal Motul 300v Redline (if you can spend the extra cash) Nothing less then 300v..... you get what you pay for?

Hey, just after some advice on single turbo manifold for RB26. Pretty much set on a Single Garret GT35R (external wastegate) which is a T3 flange. Found a Manifold from Sliding Performance 2.5mm Thick SS304 Steel. $339 shipped. Anyone have one of these? is it anygood? cracking?? Saw HKS for around 1000... and some custom ones for around the same and some are more. I would like to have a decent manifold however 1000 is out of reach unfortunately with other mods on the shopping list. anyway any advice reccomended. cheers.

165ish on all 6 cold start.

offer? PM me