Cjmartz2k

LOL! I'll be nicer than normal and tell you WHEN YOU START SEARCHING you'll need to look at wiring pin outs to see what you are going to have to re-pin, what you are going to have to jump off another wire to fool it into thinking you have two of several kinds of sensors, and switch injectors 4 and 6 around IIRC. If that's not enough to get you pointed in the right direction of finding everything else out yourself, you shouldn't be trying this. I wouldn't waste the money for a Power FC on an RB20 anyways, but that's just my opinion.

How is yours running BTW? Haven't heard anything about your car in a while.

I think I actually used an RB25 IAC with a funky vacuum hose going back into the intake. It doesn't face the right way, but if can be made to work. I think if you use the RB26 IAC, it will fowl on the oil cooler. As for performance, I noticed better throttle response (it felt very "snappy") but less low end. I changed a lot of other stuff at the same time though to include a bigger turbo, cams, and no VCT. I got the whole intake adapter/surge tank/ITBs/850 injectors/HKS fuel rail for $150, so it was basically my cheapest way to a better intake than the stock RB25 intake. One big thing I would take away from all that though is don't confuse throttle response with low end power. People often do.

Exactly my point, except even under light throttle loads, it'll still be fine. Now when you start moving enough air to notice the change in volumetric efficiency; that is to say, more than the MAF can cope with, it won't run right at WOT. The last bit you said about swapping an engine and all the things associated with it, that's the problem right there. It's going to be something basic like IC piping leak, or wiring, CTS got knocked off, or something basic along along those lines. I understand why there is a tendency to just say "you need to get it tuned" since so many people post up on here that can't figure out why their car isn't running right after a new IC, exhaust, boost controller turned up to 16psi, etc. and didn't bother to tune it. You can't just always spout off the same internet rhetoric that is repeated over and over again however. This site is famous for that.

It's not.

I'm serious, and you are wrong. So is Paul. None of those mods affect how the car idles. There is another problem here. Bigger injectors or a different MAF, yes, they would screw up idle with out a tune. Different intake, intercooler, turbo, ex manifold, exhaust, etc. have no effect on idle when it's still equiped with stock injectors, ecu, and MAF, especially with a MAF equiped car. Feel free to keep arguing and continue being wrong though.

Sighh............ There are a couple wonderful tutorials in the DIY section about fixing coil packs yourself. Lowering the gap is a good idea too (on new plugs). Don't bother spending hundereds of $ until you have exhausted your $free.99 options first. DIY section. Search.

Plenty of write ups on faulty coil packs. Use the search function and you'll find way more info than you need.

Did you read what I posted? Also, how much boost are you running?

So wait, you are trying to say his different intercooler, turbo, intake plenum, and throttle body with out being mapped would cause the car to idle like ass? Seriously, come on. WOT and getting into a bit of boost, sure, but those mods aren't going to make a car not idle or drive out of boost. OP, did your car ever run well after the swap? I have seen walbro's over power a stock FPR before, but it was because the FPR was bad anyways. I had twin walbro's in mine and when I swapped it back to a stock RB25 to sell, it ran just fine on the stock FPR. I'd make sure you don't have a leak in your intercooler piping or something basic like that.

For $420, I'll trim my filter and run a couple of new hoses. Do you have some sort of testing to back that "information" up? I'm not saying the factory intakes don't get sucked shut sometimes, but that pipe is smooth and gently tapers down into the turbo as opposed to the factory when which has those accordion style ridges and doesn't taper as smoothly. Also, please don't tell me about the ridges stopping air from going the opposite direction and back into the MAF. They wouldn't stop squat, and I ran the HKS metal intake pipe way back in the day with no problems. Now if you have some numbers to back all this up, I'd be very interested to see them, otherwise I'm going to call all of that what it is. Namebrand nut swinging combined with "fact" based on a high post count.

Sounds like a missing cylinder from a coil pack on it's way out or a fouled plug. Only when you step on it, right?

LOL, I hope you are joking.

Still not to sure whether this works or not, and I think 10hp is worth $80, but it's not worth the money to pay someone to install it or the pain in the ass of taking the manifold off myself. That's for sure. If I already had everything apart anyways, I'd probably slap on on---assuming I had enough room. I already have adapter plates to get the 26 ITB's onto the 25 head.

Wow, that is one of the most obtuse statements I've ever seen you type Paul. Not to typical of you, but typical of the attitude on this board towards anything that doesn't have an HKS/Greddy/Tomei sticker slapped on it. Besides, it's a freaking solid chunk of plastic (or whatever it's made out of). It's not THAT hard to make correctly for shit sakes. Use your head before you nut swing from name brand parts so hard. About the actual effectiveness of these spacers, not just the honda boys (and I choose my words carefully) use them. They are pretty popular with the mustang guys stateside also. Anything that helps heat soak is good in my opinion, but the degree to which it helps, I couldn't being anything factual to the argument. Actaully, maybe one thing. On my jeep (4.6L straight six stroker), I will always run a couple mph slower after several back to back 1/8 runs and it heat soaks. Sticking a bag of ice on the intake for 10 minutes or so and I always run my best times with best e.t.'s by a couple mph. The mustang guys also have documented gains icing down their intakes. Granted, this isn't the same amount of temperature change. How much gain would be enough in your mind to make it worth $80? People spend a lot more and stuff that does a lot less every day.

I'll look up the company for you, but after breaking like 3 or 4 myself, I just went to a GTR rear diff/hubs/axles. Haven't had a problem yet. The company I'm thinking of though is stateside and charge like $800+ or something.

Why the hell did you put "Help!! Urgent!!" in our post?? Are you stuck on the side of the road or something??

You'll have to buy fittings. I don't know of anybody who makes a kit, but it might be out there. Just look up what the rail and FPR want. I believe I have all -6 stuff. Can you guys order from summit racing down there? I'm a big fan of the Aeromotive stuff, especially their FPR's. I don't really like the Sard or ESPECIALLY the Nismo FPR's.

stock one won't fit

Compressor is capable of 400rwhp, but I'm not sure about that rear end. Might have to get the boost up there pretty high to reach that.

And too often on this board people aren't willing to accept new ideas or try new things just because they are different. "Just go with something proven" gets thrown around a LOT on here. 8.7 to 1 isn't that low of a compression ratio. The change in quench height is a valid concern, but he already noted that and that's the main point of his post I think. I do think Discopotato is right on though that the only real meaningful advantage is the ability to rev higher, but the 25 hydrualic head is going to be the limiting factor anyways, so unless he is planning to do something about that, it's kinda pointless. Wrong, but by all means, keep spending all that money on overpriced jap namebrand parts and stay slow. I'll find better deals, new things, and cheaper parts as long as the work well and go faster for a lot less thank you very much.

Do you have any spares? Are used ones hard to come by down there? If you can get your hands on a spare one or two (or three in a rail is best), you can narrow down which one it is pretty quickly and just replace the one. Factory coil packs with no misfire at 1.8 bar+ with the same coils for over a year here.

That's awesome I do the same thing all the time over here all the time. They see the round eye driving and figure it's to much hassle for them to get a translator and stuff so they just let most things slide. I did get a ticket recently though for "parking" even though I was in the car with the engine running (along with a 2.8L GTR waiting behind me ) at 1am in the middle of nowhere on a long striaght road. I heard him say in japanese he was giving me a ticket over the radio, then he asked me if I spoke japanese in japanese. I just looked at him confused like and said "huh?". After 1.5hrs of waiting, the translator finally shows up and I start answering his questions in japanese. Boy was the original cop PISSED. I made him work for that ticket

gage problem