Cjmartz2k

If you are indeed seeing temps of 1000c+ for more than a second or two, a lot of things should be glowing orange/red under the hood like the exhaust housing of the turbo for one. Is the temp fluctuating with throttle input? What is the temp at idle?

x2 boost leak

Welp, that pretty much answers that. Thanks crack

Sorry to bring up a REALLY old thread, but can somebody confirms whether or not the turbo vs. n/a R33 heads are the same casting or not? I don't car about springs, lifters, cams, etc. Just the casting (same number?). The n/a heads are plentiful here in junkyards and go for around $180, so I wouldn't mind taking a spare or two back with me to the states.

I was there the day he took that pic. There was a japanese guy that overfilled his tranny with fluid and it was leaking all over the place. Scott (the owner of the shop that sells those mani's) put the thing up on the lift, , drained some fluid, put it in 5th gear, and put a heavy hunk of metal on the gas pedal for like 5 minutes to see if he had indeed, found out the reason for the tranny fluid all over the place. That was thr problem, and then I noticed the manifold glowing! That one is a side mount, but I've made my top mount glow like that on several occasions. It's much more dramatic at night.

You in luck! I just took my car apart so I can put a stock RB25 in it and sell it, so the manifold is off. I'll try to remember to get a pic soon. It's been "modified" a bit for twin wastegates (don't ask) so it's a little different than normal, but only where the wastegate runners are concerned. If I don't post anything up in a day or so, feel free to PM me and remind me. They are Greddy knock off's BTW---it's just they are made with a lot better materials than the normal china knock offs of even the greddy mani itself. 3mm 321 stainless. That's why they don't crack. Heavy SOB's.

Still no problems with my china made Stec manifold, and I abuse my car a bit more than most.

I've bought injectors for my jeep stroker motor from them before. Real good customer service. I recently had the injectors cleaned and flow tested after running them for a couple of years, and they were closer in spec to each other than my nismo 740's I used to have. I think since they specialize in moving a lot of injectors, they get a lot of 100 or so if the same type, test them, match up the ones that flow the closest, and get pretty good results. I think they mostly deal with OEM applications though.

x2 on the switch on #53. And a turbo timer is not a "mod"

OP--it sounds as though you think there is a boost number that will pop your motor. There isn't. It's cylinder pressure which if effected by horsepower and knock (and a bunch of other things, but those two pertain to your question.) Like trident mentioned, if it knocks enough, your motor goes pop. Many things can cause knock including to much boost for a given octane of fuel/CR/timing/etc. The other is hp. You try making 1000hp on a motor with stock head bolts, the insane cylinder pressure is going to lift the head and the head gasket will go pop. Think about how many psi of cylinder pressure you have when the air/fuel mixture goes bang compared to a measly little 30psi of boost. Nothing in comparison. I remember reading a lot of internet "fact" when I first started researching skylines online saying headgaskets go out on RB's at 1.2 bar. Those people had NO clue WTF they were talking about.

What are you basing that assumption on? Even if you have had your blow by tested and it's clean, can you safely assume everybody else's is the same way? I know every single catch can I've ever seen has some nasty smelling/looking black liquid in it that I sure as hell woudln't want to put back into my motor oil. Also, if you run the catch cans the way they are designed, you don't dump anything out onto the track. The can seperates out most of the suspended liquids/condenses most of the fumes and saves them in the can for you to dump later, and the little bit of vapor that's left is supposed to be routed back into the intake and burnt in the combustion chamber. That does, however, gum up your intercooler if you have a lot of blow by. That's why the cans stared being used--to help keep the intake tract clean. All of this worry just so you don't have to top off the oil as often.

RB20's don't have an oil cooler stock if that gives you any indication. I think if you don't beat on it too hard, you should be alright for daily driving with the occasional romp.

There was a lot of talk about doing this over on the NICO forums. People seemed real pleased with the results.

Been making 300rwkw+ for over 3 years now. It's not a track car, but I do beat the snot out of it on the weekends.

Completely agree zebra. If you are high mounting, everything would be the same except for the price of the turbo, so if it costs you $4k for get a GT35r top mounted and installed with all the parts and bits included in the price, it would probably be $3k to do the same with a holset (just a rough example). If you are trying to low mount and you aren't handy with a welder, I think the holset idea looses a lot of it's luster. Nobody uses the stock manifold for anything other than bolt on type of turbo's here, so I never really consider that as a viable option for holsets when I talk about how cheap they are. Now if you just popped your top mounted GT30r/GT35r and are looking for an upgrade/cheaper option, a holset would be ideal.

That's a definite draw back to holsets. The are BIG. If you are already top mount or planning on gonig that way, problem solved (unless your planning a HX52 like I've been considering).

If by "cheaper" you mean not over priced, then yes. People need to get out of the mindset Garrett (including 3x as expensive re badged HKS crap) is the only good turbo out there. I'm not knocking garrett. GT series are great turbo's. There are turbo's that perform just as well if not better with the same reliability and probably better, that are a lot cheaper to buy/rebuild. I would love a GT40, but I wouldn't pay for one.

Don't need to imagine. I've done it on 3 seperate occasions Scary as fark, I'll tell you that much. Sucks if you screwed some other bits up in the process. I finally installed a GTR rear diff/axles/hubs and haven't had a problem since. Maybe you should try hunting those parts down and upgrade/fix at the same time

You'll gain throttle response and loose low end power compared to the factory RB20 intake. IMHO it's better to spend your money else where, and this is coming from a guy with RB26 ITB's on his RB25.

Sounds pretty mean Now go fill up your gas tank You need to get some 3rd and 4th gear spooling vids to show people, and get a passenger to film so your not retarded like me trying to drive and film at the same time

If you are doing it for the "gee whiz" factor because you want to do it different, that's your choice. If you think it's a cost effective mod or the best way to do it, skip it.

Sorry for the piss poor quality. I need to do this at night with somebody else helping, but I didn't want to delay any longer. Also, all these numbers seem a couple hundred rpm laggier to me than normal. I think maybe it's because we are still in close proximity to Typhoon Morakat and the altimeter (air pressure) is REALLY low--like 29.13 kinda low. Enough excuses......

I don't prefer either. I think it depends on the particular turbo or turbos. R32-33 N1's suck compared to a lot of other ones out there. I don't think one type of set up is better or worse than another just because it's twins or a single. I really think the ITB's only help with throttle response and not low end grunt, but I have no hard facts to back that up. Now if you compare the RB25 long runner intake and single TB compared to the short runner RB26 intake with ITB's, the 25 will win out down low every time. Higher in the rpm range is different though. BTW, I didn't know the GTI-R had ITB's on an SR. Cool.

That is exactly what he is putting his faith in. He's trying to say that .1L makes the difference. He clearly said putting my turbo on the 26 would spool quicker, and putting the same twins on a 25 would not spool as quick as a 26 "due to exhaust gas flow", forgeting exhaust gas flow has just as much to do with volumetric efficiency at a certain rpm (intake, cams/VCT, compression ratio all affect that) as .1L of displacement. Because of their MUCH larger displacement, and MUCH higher compression ratios which make a LOT more exhaust gas at lower rpms. Also keep in mind most diesels only spin to around 3000 rpm, which is why it takes my 2.5L gasoline engine 3500rpm to make it spool as much, but then I still have another 4000rpm to go after that, now don't I So wait, I just want to make sure I'm getting this right. You and Force Fed are saying twins are inherently slower spooling than a single that produces the same amount of power? Or are you simply stating two T88's would be laggy on a v12 truck? Yes indeed I knew that. I was actaully hoping somebody was going to argue how much that .1L did help and then point that fact out to refute them, but you stole my thunder That's actaully the point of my original post. I was just trying to have a jab at how poor spooling N1's were, since a lot of people on here try and give me crap for extolling the quick spooling virtues of my turbo because (a) it's a big single and not nifty twins and (b) "old tech" journal bearing laggy diesel technology. You did catch the crux of of my reply to Force Fed though in that you can compare the performance of the two set ups when you are comparing their spool charactaristics vs what kind of power they can make.