daineisdabomb

i think ill b Meetin ya's at city west. its 12 midday hey just to confirm?? just got my car retuned with the new turbo. it made an easy 410hp atw with boost comin on nice and quick now. just wat u need for a tough street skyline. just need to do some some suspension tuning to get that 11 sec time slip.

Yea ill b there. the roast pork n gravy rolls reeled me in

DO NOT TRY THIS AT HOME!!!!!!!! i think u forgot to tell ppl that they need a diff housing spreader to get the centre back in as it simply wont go in without 1. the tolerances need to be perfect and there needs to be literaly no play in the diff which can only be done by spreading the housing to allow all the spacers to go back in. i learnt this the hard way by attempting this tutorial. now my centre wont go back in!!! gggrrrr very angry now my car is stuck and i cant move it till i get a diff place to put the centre back in. aahhhhhhhhhhhhh

Yea should b able to make it. its good this cruise starts a bit earlier. i was pretty tired at 3am on the last cruise.

Freshly built RB25det (Forged internals) garrett GT35 turbo .70 intake .84 exh, 6Boost manifold, turbosmart 48mm external gate Haltech E11v2 20psi Boost pump fuel 423 HP @ wheels (full boost @ 4000rpm and 8000rpm rev limiter)

u ill probably find that ur headlights will go back to yellow after a short amount of time coz mine did wen i sanded n waxed them. there is a product i bought from the auto salon that i used on mine and it worked mint andthey r still perfectly clear. its called GLASSYLITE not sure where to get it but if u googe it u would find it. it cost me $20 and my lights hav been perfect for like a year now and it actually seals the lights so they dont go yellow again.

yea dunno maybe just trippin. the guy with the chaser busted the biggest flame out his exhaust in the hills! i thought his car was on fire it popped n then kept burnin for like 10 seconds lol n it was goin up the back of his car haha

yea i no wot u mean bout the guy drivin the chaser! he was up my ass for a while n he had hid headlights that were blinding me! then he overtook me and everyone else that he got a chance too. the roads were pretty skinny not to mention the lack of vision. i thought i was a cruise not a race!! his no plates were "IMEXCITED" i think. a little too excited if u ask me. newayz was a good night. did ne1 notice if there was a speed camera at the exit of the poly farmer tunnel?? i think i got flashed but not sure. mite b trippin.

Should b able to make it...... ill b meetin at the north point.

i have a fully built rb25 with a GT35 with .82 rear housing. it hits 20psi at 4000rpm, which is great for the track but i drive the car on the street more and find it a little laggy on the street. im goin to change the rear housing to a .62 as i feel i would enjoy driving it more and its not all about how much power it makes its about how it makes the power n wen. dont get me wrong it is reasonably responsive n 4000rpm for 20psi is good but u need the rev the crap out of it all the time to hav the power n u just cant do that on the street unless u want to loose ur licence. but hey like i said wen ur on the track and the revs are up round the 4000k plus the turbo spools very quick n is awsome.

Damn powercruise was sweet!! and i hav to say alot of V8s felt the wrath of ANGR33GTS haha. just wonderin if ne1 got footage of my car coz i wouldnt mind seein it.

i hav sard injectors they r 670cc. the tuner said they r shit!! and i spoke to someone else n they confirmed they r shit coz they take 2ms to open compared to a stock injector that takes .6ms to open so i was told to get the stock ones drilled out coz they will still open quickly and b able to flow plenty of fuel

dude u sound like u hav a pretty good setup for the street. just get it tuned to 15-17psi n leave it at that. should make around 350 atw with that n b pretty responsive. just wat u need

yes it is used but only in closed loop a/f ratio monitoring mode. the tuner probably didnt use it coz it was tuned to stochiometric down low newayz. 400km s from a tank isnt bad. wot turbo r u runnin n wot size injectors, cams etc? i get 350 from a tank if i just cruise not even on boost. and yea it sux lol but thats just wot happens wen u put a massive turbo n big injectors in

i would check all ur vacum lines and piping first then do a ecu diagnostic check. the fluctuating is caused by a lean a/f mixture. so either air is gettin in somewhere after the af meter or ur af meter is stuffed. the reason it runs when cold is caused by the ecu addin fuel at cold start n as the car heats up the fuel mixture returns to normal values and the car runs lean and stalls. check ur piping asap

GEEZ!! thats crazy u wont get boost till like 6000rpm!! u really dont want nethin bigger than .82 rear housing for the street. .62 would b the best option for response and power and should hit full boost at 3600 ish. look at a garrett GT30 ext gate turbo it is rated a 500hp and should make 420 at the rears or if u want to step up u could get a GT35 rated at 600hp and that will make 500hp at the wheels with the boost turned rite up lol

yep ill definately b there n i got about 5 mates comin with thier cars. ANGR33GTS will b unleashed mwa ha ha ha ha

Yea im in n ill round up a krew!! should b a fun day!

How about u make it next sunday??? or this sunday??? if u do ill b in and i can get at least 7 other cars. decide wat day and post it otherwise no1 will come coz ur just confusing ppl. msg me wen u no 0421355849 (Daine)

getting MBT (maximum brake torque) is achieved by igniting the fuel mix wen the cylinder reaches peak cyclinder pressure (top dead centre). as the air/fuel mix takes time to burn the spark must b initiated prior to the crank reaching (tdc). the tuner must no exaclty wen to start the burn to achieve (mbt). there are many variables that affect wen the spark must occur such as air/fuel ratio, charge temperature, load, boost ect. generally mbt is found by advancing the timing (with the correct a/f ratio for the condition already set) untill the knock threshhold is found and then backing off a few degree's to allow for any unforseen conditions that may see the engine knock. generally the more spark advance present the more efficient an engine will b.