Tomei_33

here it is, best shot i can get without unbolting everything.. sorry about the size

i can get the front shaft but the back has the dumps attatched at they are really tightly bolted on, ill get u the front shaft pics for now, back in 5~

can i ask what single plate clutch u had? dont tell me its a Jim Berry? that name comes up everywhere- sorry for being off topic

cool, thanks for the info, but is there some way to tell if they are steel wheeled? i cant think of a reason why they would take it off (unless they blew) and write an 'S' on both turbos.. unless its steel wheeled, maybe its just wishful thinking, but is there a way to be sure?? thanks

ok ive upgraded my turbos, and now have my old ones in the store room.. i found that they both have a letter 'S' hand written on them.. when i bought my car, it seemed completely standard, and to write on the turbos, the turbos would have have to be taken out sometime.. so now im thinking whether i have standard turbos or not.. how do i identify what turbos i have? i know they are Garrett.. markings on it say - "GARRETT A/R42 M24 1-2" and .42 on one of the tubes and 4685 on the side and "GARRETT 485" .48 on the other (darker one) i hope u get what im saying here =/ a plate on it says "UD 1429J 14411-05U20 466071-2" can anyone let me know what turbos i have? and how would i know if they are 'steel wheeled' turbos? thanks in advance

oh yeah, for day to day driving, go the evo!

my bro has an evo 7 and i have a 32 gtr, both a great cars but in their own way - u probably heard that people say that evo's drive themselves, this is because they handle so well and is difficult to spin out in. They make one really good car for circuit, even for beginners.. they are new and great, never had a problem with the thing.. now gtr's are older, and tend to have more problems then the evo, how ever they are more fun to drive and have more potential, they are wicked fast at the track, but it does take some skill to handle them. evos tend to have better response on the street though (due to their close ratio box?) heres the easy way to put it - if u wanna modify it, get the gtr - if u wanna keep it standard, get the evo : )

so 16 x 8" would be the rims to go for? what kind of weight would you be looking at / what do 32 gtr rims weigh? cant other rims work just as well? eg 17x8?

The question isn't "which should i buy with XX amount of money" - its asking which car is better, doesnt matter how much they cost, so if u can have a gtr for free or a gtst for free, which is better.. then u can start added mods on from there

when you find yourself reading the "You Know You Drive a Skyline When.." thread

i cant explain the overboosting but my car hesitated to go past 2500 rpm and stalled on idle, soldered up the afms and its fine now, try finding a working set of afms to test it, no point using dodgy afms to test if ur afms work or not

hyperdrive are the ones that do the $800 install and tune package, but they dont remove the plenum, to remove the plenum ur looking at an extra $500 or so, thats what i was told.. heaps of people have had theirs installed with the plenum in, but i havent heard any problems.. if there were problems, i guess they wouldnt do it anymore?

.. you dont carry a map, just incase you get lost, u can drive for longer

blitz type R http://cgi.ebay.com.au/BLITZ-SBC-I-D-III-3...idZp1638Q2em122 theres more info there, ive got it on my car, but havnt really got to test it yet

You guys seem to have a strong opinion against drilling it with the plenum in, I'd better do it the right way, whenever i skimp on costs, the golden always ALWAYS comes into play lol.. sounds like i better get it done right, lucky i asked Thanks to Trent and Adam for the concern, could have been possible engine problems otherwise

i found a mechanic that will do it for 800 tuned, i think ill go with them, they dont remove the plenum but have done it to other cars before so i guess it works, oil up the drill bit and use a vacuum.. works for me

with 1 bar, un-tuned and 2860's- 5s my fuel consumption has gone from ~500km(stock) to 400-450km per 62lt~ tank

Thanks for the link Adam, I've looked into this and im not much of a DIY person so id best leave it up to the experts.. ill call around tomorrow and see what prices other mechanics are charging.. i remember calling around before and the prices were around 600-1100(tuned), depending on the place i went to.. ill check again anyhow

my mechanic first quoted 550, tuned, now it has gone up to 250-280 just for installation, then it went up again to 6-7 hours labour - $600-700 just to install... other places have quoted 600-800 installed and tuned... i dont know what the deal is

i got another question guys... how much does it cost to install a power fc d jetro into an r32 gtr? my mechanic said he cant find something on the intake plenum and has to take the plenum out.. will take about 6-7 hours labour... this definitely does not seem right to me... anyone else know?i think he is looking for drill points or something?

i got another question guys... how much does it cost to install a power fc d jetro into an r32 gtr? my mechanic said he cant find something on the intake plenum and has to take the plenum out.. will take about 6-7 hours labour... this definitely does not seem right to me... anyone else know?i think he is looking for drill points or something?

isnt nissans spec 7.5W40? maybe im wrong

some one on the forums said they run 400rwkw with the stock cooler, so i figure ull be fine with a stocker

a good tune meaning - if you choose to safe tune, ur results wouldnt be as good as if you went aftermarket cams with a safe tune also?

omg i said PM! ur fired