DAMQIK GTS-T

Thats Right, If you have changed over the CAS then its either the igniter module or the wireing to it, as Gumby suggested to clean every plug to it with contact cleaner. if you wanted clean the one that go's to the ecu and the few that go to the igniter & do the AFM plug for good measure.

Ive bought a jap import because I belive they are better quility than the Australian equlivelant (spelling?), for the money. The Aussie Holden & Ford are crap: I wanted the better performance, ect. that an import offered so why shouldnt I by parts from where my car came from? you normally woudnt go to honda to buy a door handle for your ford would you? though other companies make ford door handles the better quility ones are usually made here, why because the aussies know aussie cars same go's for the jap parts for jap cars. They know the cars and know what works and what dosn't thats why Id buy from someone like nengun as there generally the right parts for the car I'm buying the part for. Turth be known most of the Aussie re sellers would by from Someone like nengun and put a markup on the parts anyway. I have allready found this to be the case. (Im in the computer industry) So will you people get real and stop wasting time with the aussie B/S. There are pleanty of job's for those who get off there ass and try. Its a big world with a big market place. (Hope all that made sence) :eek:

I still thinks its the crank angle sensor or igniter. Place yer bets everybody.:lol:

Caliper to inside wheel clearance would be the main issue with the front calipers on the rear.

Can anyone tell me anything about the turbocharger from a VG30 motor? (300zx DONK) Would it be a better turbo to use on a RB25det Skyline? What are the specs of both Turbos? (the rb25 & vg30) Is it a straight bolt on? Thanks.

How did you go with it?? I doubt its the ecu it's most likely the igniter on top of motor at the back as previously stated or the crank angle sensor. as your problem sounded heat realated with ignition.

electric water pump, some sort of ram flow setup (so air is forsed into the intake), cam timing, lightened flywheel, av gas, balanced bottom end (makes engine rev easyer), dry sump, Could always bite the bullet and TURBO it. :lol:

My car still has the stock steer wheel How do I test it? when in advanced diags I turn the steerwheel and the rear wheels move about an inch or so left and right. I have a switch that connects the speed sensor (This disables the speed limiter) but I rearly use it, could this be the cause of this code? although I did reset the ecu before running the diags! which would clear this error. The engine speed sensor couldnt be a problem as the rpm cut still works and that would be a part of the crank angle sensor circuit. The 32 code error could be many things (I still think its the Neutral switch) as below HICAS 1994-1999 22 Steering angle sensor not present 23 Steering angle sensor neutral or not present 32 (Auto) Inhibititor switch input not present, (Manual) Neutral switch input not present 32 Engine speed signal not present Can anybody correct me if Im wrong please!

Dont call me DUDE Mate it sounds like you only have a stocker when you get a HKS super Drager zorst and some 18 X 9" wheels (and a clutch) we will take heed of your comments :shake:

I have unpluged all the connectors and sprayed them with elecrical contact spray and re-connected them, run the diags again and the same codes come up as errors (22,32) anything else that could be wrong??? anyone with with any ideas? :confused:

Its A Manual 5SPEED Ill Have a look and check that switch thanks.

I have a problem with my HICAS but never get the light on the dash whilst driving. I've put the hicas in adavanced diagnoistics mode, I get error codes 22 and 32 which both have something do do with the neutral switch, anybody had this problem before or can point me in the right direction as to go about fixing it all the plugs into the gearbox look ok! BTW its a 1994 R33 All Electric type HiCAS (No Hydraulics) Thanks

Would have to agree friday evening's are good

No they dont, mine dosn't have a factory amp either and hitnrun dosnt in his car, but they may of been removed in japan as we both didnt have the regular factory system in our car's (the ones pictured in the handbook) though I'm sure my stereo was an advanced nissan option (GPS,TV, VCD Stacker, Remote control) but still no amps.

When is this Big kart track day gonna happen??? Would be good to set a date so we can plan ahead for it.:burnout:

I Suggest for the 6 cyl class 6 cyl 2.5l Turbo (RB20 Skylines R33 GTS) 6 cyl above 2.5l Turbo (GTR, Supra etc) 6 cyl N/A any cc this way it groups the cars more evenly together!

Very easy to do yourself Tools Required: felt tip pen harmonic balancer puller, socket and breaker bar (undo nut on pully) i think it was a 26mm, hand full of spanners 8mm 10mm 12mm 13mm 14mm, set of allen keys and a flat blade screwdriver Drain water from radiator, remove hoses undo black cover for fan undo the two 10mm bolts at top of radioator remove radiator, use the breaker bar with the 26mm socket and put on front of the balancer pully with the handle down toward the passanger side of the car unplug the crank angle sensor mark the nuts to the cover so you can put it back in exactly the same place, (its at front of the exhaust camshaft) flick the key this should crck the bar against the chassis rail on the left side of the car. remove all fan belts and fan & remove the top half of the timing belt cover. set the engine to top dead center (tdc) each side of the cam pullys has a dot, line them up with the marks on the back of the cover once at tdc use puler to remove balancer remove bottom belt cover (ensure engine doesn't turn) remove and replace timing belt tensioners (both) as the barings most likely stuffed replace belt (Reassembly reverse the disassembly) It shouldnt take more than two hours to do the whole job. if you are replacing the water pump a vl commondore one for $75 may be a cheaper option (only one bolt hole differs not critical to leave it out.)

UFO3 is a rear wiper control relay my factory speakers are Clarions 4ohm max 30watt nominal 15watt

Hi everyone my name is Stuart Age 29 (Male) I live on Buderim Mtn on the Sunny Coast IT Tech (Own Business) I own a Metalic Blue Gst-T R33 Mods Inc: 18" wheels 4" Cat back Exhaust 6" tip HKS Super Drager Cut Speed Limiter Turbo Smart 2 stage Boost Controller Turbo Smart BOV 2X 12" fusion Subs, 6"Infinidy Splits & 6" Pionieer 3 ways Pionieer 400 watt 2 ch & boss 800 watt Amps Anyone wanting to meet in the Mooloolaba Area or something just let us know.

Yeah thats the way! :uh-huh:

The Front isnt the problem. Its the back of the car as the driving wheels dip down as the dyno rollers set lower then ground my exhaust system just missed from hitting ( mines lowered an inch or so )

Dont know bout Noosa, bit boaring But how about Mooloolaba Esplanade?

I would drive down for that, actually had my car dynoed today would like to compare the results.