Proximity Motorsport

Hey guys. Well I just got my r33 GTST running and on the road for the first time and a mate was driving behind me and said it crab walks, so we swapped cars and he wasn't lying! This thing was crabbing like crazy! The hicas light has been on since the day I got it running so I decided to lock it out. So I pulled the hicas module off and pulled it apart. I spun it all the way to one side and cut some of the thread where the tie rod goes onto off, then went the other way and cut the other side off, then centralized it and welded the worm inside it stiff. So now the car has no adjustment, its solid. So i put some washers over the tie rods and put them back on and locked them up tight. Put it all back together, with all the plugs still plugged in... and now my speedo doesnt work? I am not sure why, but I'm hoping someone here knows. I'm assuming the speedo and hicas is electronically connected somehow to deal with the over 80kmh thing. Any ideas on how to get the speedo to work again? Thanks

Looking good. Cant wait to see final results.

Hey, Im thinking of machining up a steel roller to go on the guard roller in place of the original nylon one, and heat the guard with the oxy and flare it out with the steel wheel on guard roller... if that fails and it looks terrible ill use small over flares... dont really want to though. Im using the r33 cradle to get it up closer to the chassis and better geometry on the arms. I have a complete spare cradle with diff and all if your interested.. Cheers

bump

Also have custom made stainless Intercooler pipes, 4" intake and greddy types rs blow off valve that has a stainless hardline return to intake, all custom polished stainless, $800

Today is my last day! Officially a tradesman. And out of a job! Tomorrow I'll be home

It came in the car so I have no idea sorry

Want to give me a call on 0448 233 105 and we can talk. Leon

Sorry, but I will not separate turbo kit. They are all quality bits and the dump pipe is custom made to suit. Buy it all

$125 Delivered through aus post with tracking number

no its not the one out of my r33 that is still going to be a daily. This is out of a R33 with 87,000km on it, maroon. Some guy did his rear quater and I got it for the r32 but its not happening any more. Im getting some crazy ideas Cal haha. Message me if you want to know specifics.

Hey guys, I am sadly, selling everything I have to do with an RB. There is a genuine reason for sale, as my priorites have changed in a different direction RB25DET MOTOR - greddy style plenum, dressed with P/S pump, Alternator, Coils, complete loom, ECU, Injectors, everything - $1600 RB25 6 Boost high mount steampipe manifold, Garret GT3076 Turbo, 0.86 rear vband housing, Tial 44mm wastegate, and a custom front and dump pipe, 3" stainless off turbo and 2" stainless with a flex joint off the gate, plumbed back into the exhaust. Whole setup has only 10,000km on it, more than half of that is highway kays - $3500 Apexi SAF-C $250 Apexi AVC-R $500 Vipec V44 ECU with expansion harness and 7bar map sensor - direct plug in for RB25 - $1800 Nismo 740cc Injectors $800 OS Giken triple plate clutch and light flywheel $1800 Super Spark Coils for series 1 $300 Morristech high output coil igniter (series1) $200 RB25 Series 1 Loom to suit R32 - $300 RB25 Series 2 Loom, missing plugs that goto gearbox and cas - $150 Greddy style chrome inlet manifold $250 R33 GTS-T Rear cradle, complete, front brakes and hubs and lower control arms, knuckles - $1200 RB20 Gearbox with noisy bearing, but never failed $200 RB20/25/26 short shifter with replacement cover that bolts to gearbox, all billet $100 RB25 VCT Head minus cams, dissassembled, honestly have check exactly whats there, some parts may be missing. Includes rocker covers $350 RB30 Block, crank girdle, dip stick, crank, acid cleaned, honed $100 RB25 A/c Compressor - working $100 RB25 Power steering pump - working $120 adjustable cam gears - no brand (red + bronze) $150 Trust catback exhaust, 3.5" to a small trust box muffler, to twin 2.5" to twin 4" pipes $600 HKS Triple plate clutch to suit Hollinger box $1000 Ok, so I think thats all I have, ill post more later. If you want pictures hit me up, ill try get some up in the next few days though. Please call me on 0448 233 105 if your interested Thanks, Leon Cheers

consider them sold, ill pm you

just measure the lengh you need, and from memory they are 12mm diameter but just check that also. Try get some Metric Fine bolts, i usually use metric fine grade 12.8 cap head bolts, most places will only stock grade 8.8 or possible 10.2 in normal bolts so use cap heads and some good thick high tensile washers both sides with cone lock or nyloc nuts

Also purchased some JJR R33 rear traction rods and Toe rods yesterday. Also rang driftshop about some D-project tie rods. Waiting for them to get back to me. If anyone has any good quality tie rods and extra lock rose joint ends with adjustable bump steer please let me know, I'm keen for some even if they are second hand. Still been slack, gotta call nissan and order a shitload of shims for the diff to set the preload and backlash in diff before that can go in, and still gotta brace the rear cradle and paint it, then I can setup the rear end and fit the GTR guards to get the 11.5" wheels sitting nice

Jono I didn't finish the torque plate last shift, it was real busy because of the rain, everything was breaking down so I actually had to work. I bored out 3 holes, and realised the machined surface I dialed off were actually not in the center, I sort of assumed the spark plug would be in the centre, but its not, its about 3mm off centre so now I have to decide whether to sleeve it, build it up with a double pulse alloy mig or scrap it and just find a alloy plate I can do it, but id like something atleast 40mm thick, and not sure we have any lying around. Here are some pics.. I bolted it down to the table Then I used a finger dial to dial up off a machined surface where the spark plug goes... turns out it wasn't centre, and my night shift drowsyness didn't notice, and being half slack to do the job i didn't bother measuring. Using the finger dials was easy to get the head setup within 0.01mm or 0.0004" Then the final result which is just crap, Im so pissed off haha but I will work something out

This is the "Pro Weld" Tig welder I purchased off ebay for $850 delivered (not same brand as one in pic, and its red, but same internals) Thats the 14" Hitachi drop saw I got for $350 brand new delivered on ebay too. Pretty happy with both of them, can't fault them yet

Before you rush out and buy something I highly recommend these for value for money. I purchased one of these tigs (off a different seller than this picture was taken from - mine was red) If you just search AC Tig on ebay you will see plenty of different types, I chose this one for its functions vs price. I would have liked to get one with a plasma torch but... didnt warrent the extra $600. I paid $850 delivered for my tig, it came with foot pedal, a stick welding attachment, tig torch and a cheap reg, which I just threw out because I have a cigweld one. As for the saw its a 14" friction saw, can do 110mm pipe and I paid $350 delivered for it, and its well worth its money! Also found on ebay. As for the welder though, I have welded up 2 gates for my fence with the stick, done stainless brackets up for mates car, and done alloy cooler pipes for myself, and in all 3 different applications it has not let me down. At first I thought DC with stuffed, because with a 2.4mm electrode and on 10 amps with plenty of gas welding 1.6mm thick stainless it was melting electrodes. But then I just had a thought about it, and something to note... You can swap the polarity around on a welder, have the earth hooked up to positive and hand piece on negative, and it changed where the heat is, whether its in job or the electrode (goes for stick and tig) Not sure on the exact figures but I think its split at 30%/70% or 70%/30% heat, depending whether your using neg or pos to weld. Anyway short story is I swapped hand piece over to negative and it welds a treat now. I didn't think of doing this at first because the Kempi Master Tig I learnt to weld with, does it all automatically inside the machine.. I guess you get what you pay for but for a home job my Tig is awesome!

24jzgte nice work. I actually downloaded that program a while back and had a play with it.. Is it much more effective doing it that way than cutting 7 degree segments with a friction saw? Obviously the friction saw method is alot quicker, but does using the templates give a better finish? I just dont like the idea of cutting them with an angle grinder because if there is a 1mm gap and your trying to fuse weld it with the tig your going to blow through and need to filler rod it with looks messy on piping IMO. As for the getting metal in your eye, ive done it 3 times in the last 2 years (at work) but now even at home I wear a face shield if using an angle grinder, as glasses aren't 100% effective. Only once I had my eye drilled, that was because I was hoping the metal would come out after a bit, and 7 hours later it had grown over NOT ADVISABLE... only get one set of eyes, look after them people

I started to make a Torque Plate for torque boring and honing last night. I only got as far as decking the top down a bit to reduce the bulkyness of it.. Basically held it down to the mill with some t-blocks and cap screws through the spark plug holes. Hopefully tonight I'll have time to bore the cylinders out.. I was going to do it in the lathe on a face plate but its about 50mm too big to reach the cyls 1 and 6 in the lathe so I might do the lot in the mill with a fly cutter... Made it look like it snowed

Thanks for all the help guys. Checked the cas wires for earth n power, then checked the signal wires, while turning the cas by hand and noticed the signals had permanent earth, so I checked continuity with multimeter and narrowed it down to the plug, so I soldered a new one on and finally, I have spark and fuel. Thanks for the help guys

I would hope not, because the loom hasnt been touched, apart from where I disconnected apexi SAFc and AVCr, only an engine swap as old owner disintergrated the piston... Ill try testing signal wires through the week next week sometime. Thanks for the input guys

I tried an ECU from a S2 R33 GTS... are they the same as turbo? I also tried my Vipec for rb25 out of my r32 and no difference. There is no igniter pack because its series 2, but I will try this test light as soon as I get a chance

mmmmm................. rather not...

anyone got any more ideas?