neil_se

Where in Brissy are you? I'm interested in the dump/front pipe and would also like to know what it's made of.

NA_R33, that's the tailshaft, he means driveshaft from diff to hub. Most importantly you'll need a 36mm socket and a very strong rachet with breaker bar. You can't get a 36mm separately from most hardware or automotive shops, you'll need to go to a proper tool shop or give your mechanic mate a beer in exchange for the loan of one There's 5 bolts that hold your driveshaft to your diff, coat them in WD40 before you get started You can see the end of the driveshaft come through the centre of your hub. it has a little metal cover over the nut that you need to get off, probably with pliers. Coat big the nut in WD40, then coat it again. The 36mm fits over the driveshaft nut. This is where that maccas you had for lunch comes in handy. Put your breaker bar into the socket. You think your breaker bar is pretty big? It's not. Find something even longer to put over the end of it (i used an exhaust ) Now stand on the of the super breaker bar and you should be able to crack the nut with just your weight and maybe some bouncing. Remove the nut. Undo the 5 nuts that hold the driveshaft to the diff. The driveshaft should now fall away from the diff but is still held by the hub on the other end. The driftshaft will need some coaxing to come out of the hub. Screw the big nut a little way back over the end of the driveshaft to give you a surface to hit against. You now need to bash the crap out of the end of the driveshaft until it goes out the back of the hub. A rubber mallet is best so that you don't damage the nut or the thread but you'll probably need even more force than that. Bash away. It will seem like the driveshaft is still held in by something but it's not, it's just a bitch. With enough bashing the driveshaft will slowly make its way out the hub and presto!, you now have a driveshaft. It may be easier in your car but at least i've prepared you for the worst. PS. If you really want to make life hell for yourself try removing a driveshaft from a separate rear craddle with no diff or brakes. There's nothing to stop the hub from turning when you turn the 36mm nut, and even when you jam up the hub with a pole against the ground the 100 and something kg craddle would rather rotate then the nut. fun, fun, fun.... :headspin: PSS. You sure you don't want to come remove my spare driveshaft yourself? wow, i wrote quite a novel....

try feeding it through the engine side of the firewall. there might be more room to get it through on the drivers side.

follow the bunch of wires coming from your ecu back through the firewall. there's a hole on the drivers side too.

t28bb sounds perfect for you and $750 is about the normal price. you should get around 160-170rwkw at 1bar with your setup and t28bb. that 3037 is cheap at the moment, but i don't think the seller is dumb enough to let it go for that price.

if you want one that isn't too laggy don't go the 2540. hks 2530 for about $1600-1700 sounds more what you're after or a high-flow r33 turbo, but that will cost over 2k i believe.

added you neilesplin@hotmail.com i'll email you in the morning anyway.

i saw these ones for sale. same design but not white. Rays Nismo 17 x 9 Nissan Wheels GTR +16 PCD $1980 http://www.option1garage.com.au/wheels.htm

i'm definately interest, is the front pipe standard or aftermarket? is it 3" hi-flow cat? i can give you my stock r32 dump and front pipe (pretty sure they're the same) and s13 cat if you want too RiGo.

When connecting my SAFC-I this week we noticed the manual doesn't actually tell you to connect the throttle wire. I had the SAFC-II manual as well and had to use that to wire the throttle. For some reason it only reads 85.8% foot flat to the floor though.

you've got the oil sensor i assume? drain out your oil and see if the sensor will fit straight in. if not, take the plug and your sensor to a hose fitting place and get an adaptor to make it fit. easy as

still have parts available. let me know what you need and i'll see if i can find it.

bump

sandwich plates won't be cheap. it would really only be worth getting one if you want an oil cooler. the easier and cheaper option is to put the sensor where your sump drain plug is.

We put a GTR fuel pump into my 180 the other day but we found the fuel pump in there wasn't the stock ca18det one. Anyone know what it might be? It the bottom pump in the pic with the top one being a GTR pump (hopefully).

or maybe you're talking about the hks t3g? its meant to be about 2530 size but i tried to do some research on it and couldn't find details/power of anyone using one.

nissan gold coast quoted me $82 for an rb20det bottom radiator hose. i used landcruiser one that just fitted (doesn't need to be as long when fitted in a 180sx).

it won't fit and its much smaller than the stock one (even smaller than a ca18det t25 i think)

any idea on rebuild cost? i heard plates are really expensive.

yeah you're probably right, that's just what it says on the compliance plate, 8/94.

mine doesn't say it either and its a '94 dated r32.

I now have most of the parts needed for an auto to manual conversion for an r32. fronttailshaft $120 clutch pedal $30 clutch master $50 speed sensor (if your gearbox doesn't have one) $10 $180 for the lot will also have stock clutch and flywheel soon stock lsd diff $220 stock turbo $330 PM me or email neilesplin@hotmail.com

Anyone want a catback for $250? I'll pay $350 for the hks dump, front (aftermarket?) and cat.

bump

looks similar to the HKS circle earth system. apparently you can get some noticeable difference from doing it. i wouldn't pay $200 or whatever for a kit though, just get the right guage wire and do it yourself.