brada31ke70

the front part of the drive shaft doesnt matter if it is 2 or 4 door, as long as it has the spline to fit into the manual gear box, and you use the back part of your drive shaft. works a treat. just a note, keep your auto gear box cross member, it fits the r33 rb25 gear box if you ever put one in. couldnt believe it when i found mine up in my roof and it fitted. if any one needs a a31/c33 manual cross member i have one for sale.

i have a old 26 block and crank which i have taken bits off to build my 30/26. i ran the bottom end on it, so it needs a bit of machining, but then again what second hand 26 does not. i am on the gold coast, give me a ring if your keen, o4o4978589.

my cefiro was rb20 and used to have a diagnostic plug under the drivers side just above where your legs are, it did not fit the tuners plug so when i put the 26 in i soldered in a r32 gtr one straight into the ecu, it is only 6 wires, i have the wiring diagram if you need it. the new rb30/26 is almost sorted now, hope the 32 gtr computer will run it.

what compression ratio are these? are they for a low compression single cam head, or a twin cam head? phone or text o4o4978589. thank you.

what is the maximum ring end gap for the top ring with standard pistons for a rb30e, i have got the 26 head recoed, crank has been reground, got a nismo oil pump, is it worth messing around with standard pistons or should i just bite the bullet and by forged pistons and re bore the block? not after huge power. i am old greg.

what size are they, do you have rings, if not what sort of rings do they take?

am building a fairly low budget mild rb30/26 and was wondering what experiences or opinions people had on safe boost levels for standard rb30e pistons, i would like to see around .75 to 1 bar. thank you.

what is your opinion on safe boost levels for a rb30e with standard pistons? i have a 26 head, r31 rb30e motor all ready to go, not going for the most extreme build, using acl race bearings, chrome molly rings, reconditioning the head and just bolting on all of the 26 stuff to it. was only planning on around the .75 to 1 bar mark. any thoughts or previous experiences would be appreciated, thanks.

i have a rb30 out of a series 3 silloette, just tapped the hole 16mm down from the head and 27mm in from the little 5mm hole, drilled in about 10-12mm and did not hit the water jacket, but if you do, use thread seal tape or even better, some hemp, lock tight will not work at all. it is best to tap it straight but if it is a little off, when you do up the tensioner it will pull it straight between the machined area of the block and the back of the tensioner. i used a 26 tensioners, not sure if it is different to 25.

ah, mr huddy, i have read a few of your posts in the cefiro forum. going 26/30 aye? i ran a bottom end bearing in my 26 cefiro and have also decided to go 26/30, i purchaced a series 3 siloette rb30, it has all of the oil lines in the block, i think there was one for sale on boost cruiser for $150. just having fun extending the down pipes off the twin turbos at the moment, not so easy doing it in the shed. good luck with the build. if you are running a 26 head do you still need to run the oil restrictors, isnt one of the oil galleries blocked off? i have noticed the 26 block has one of the oil galleries blocked off compared to the 30 do you need to weld up the 30s oil gallery? is running baffels in the sump necessary for a 30? any information will be greatly appreciated. sorry for crashing your thread huddy

i have searched and can not find if any of the rb26 heads have vvt, i know the 32 definatley does not have it and was just wondering if the 33 has vvt. any info would be greatly appreciated. thank you

just wanting to know if anyone has twin turboed a 30, how does it go and what did you do with the oil return lines, drill and tap two new holes into the block, or just t the origanal oil return, does it flow enough oil back to the sump? any help will be greatly appreciated. thank you.

times are tough, economy has slowed.

hi leroy, are you running twin turbos or just a single?

i have recently run a big end on my 26 and because i am a cheap bastard, i have decided to bin the 26 bottom end and replace it with a 30. i was not planing on changing anything but have noticed that there is only one oil return hole in the sump and the 26 has two, one for each turbo, should i bother drill and tapping another one into the sump, or maybe installing a 't' into the 30 drain hole and run both oil return lines into it, or just buy a single turbo inlet manifold and a turbo and do away with the twins. if i go single, what turbos have people used, i would rather a bit more mid range, than a big punch at the end. will the standard n1 twin 26 turbos run out of puff in the high rev range? any input will be greatly appreciated, thank you.

i have a rb25 wiring diagram and a r32 gtr wiring diagram, both are very similar just the pin outs are different, i think a cefiro wiring diagram would be almost impossible to find unless you can read jap. you dont really need a cefiro wiring diagram just a ecu diagram. from wales i see, rhyder? londidron wels? swansea? do you have a fax? give me a pm if you need some help with wiring, the cefiro must be unbelieveably rare over there. how about swindon and its magicical roundabout? not in wales but still very magicical.

when i wired the 26 into the rb20 cefrio all i had was the pin outs for the 26 and the 20 ecu, and a wiring diagram. just label all of the wires coming out of the rb20 ecu which go into the car loom (as opposed to the engine loom) and then match them to the wires which go into the corresponding pinout of the 25 ecu. i am not too sure if the tacho wire from the 25 runs the same voltage as the cefiro rev counter. you also have the two green relays which just feed power to injectors and ignition,(dont quote me on this, i cant quite remember, it was over a year ago i did this) which you just connect to the engine loom. not too sure about weather the 25 needs a seperate resister for each injector, but the 26 needs a loom made up for it, which is wired through the loom which goes from one head light to the other and sits over by the battery. look for a wiring diagram, it helps shit loads. just label everything and start at one point and try and not get too confused by it all. good luck, it is hard to try and get any help on this, i think because not too many people have done it and those that have like to keep it too themselves. dont be afraid to ask, i will try and help as much as possible.

i brought a 26 rear wheel half cut, did the coversion myself, just run a big end bearing, not happy, either selling it as is or doing a cheap 30 now with the 26 head. looking back on it, i would maybe be thinking about a 25 neo, alot newer and i hear they are go quite well, also get the good gear box with it. rebuilding is alot more expensive than outlaying a bit more to start with, and it is a bit dissapointing when it all goes bang. but on the other hand a 25 is no 26. good luck.

right, i think your first photo is showing the old anti lock braking system plugs off the half cut loom. cant quite see if one of those plug has fibreglass insulation on it, if it does it will be the o2 sensor in the out let manifold. the shot with just the plugs one of them looks like the loom which used to go to the old auto trans and the othe one looks like the plug which brings power over to the computer and the power from the dropping resiter for the injectors throuh the head light loom. if it is running though it shoud be sweet and not need the othe wires. not 100% though, good luck! definately a injector resister in there, not sure of the rb20 but the 26 needs a injector resister with 7 wires coming out of it, so not needed.

i have noticed that the window switches on the a 31 cefiro is the same as the front wheel drive v6 maxima which is the same as the next model cefiro a32 i think, my central locking was not working, but i managed to find a a31 at the wreckers, choice.

your a good man huddy, not may would give away their trade secrets like that. my buddy club coil overs have just arrived, cant wait to install them and go for a skid, every one raves about coil overs, but it goes good with cut springs at the rear and lowered s15 front springs with s 14 front control arms.

hi there, where exactly are the meeting points? i am keen for a bit of a meat up and meet up.

excellent, thank you my man.

r32 rear sub frame bolts straight in, just get a hi cas lock bar. when i did it the only proplem i encounted was the back brake lines needed to be made longer, only cost $40, and if you unclip the original cefiro flexable brake lines they will strech to reach to get you by. by the time you stuff around doing a back brake conversion it is quicker an easier to swap the whole sub frame, you can sell the old one aswell. but some say one of the bushes wear out. good luck. install pineapple bushes while you do it.

r32 rb26, n1 turbos, r32 rear sub frame, s14 front hubs and brakes, mechnical lsd, r32 gear box, os tripple plate clutch, cut springs, 200rwkw on 10 psi enough for 205 tyres.