Cool Hand Luke

I dont think the advantages of a manual only come into play on the track. Manuals are great, as you have much better throttle control, which can always be used on the street

I would seriously doubt that it would make power anywhere near to 9000 with stock cams and a small turbo... Even my Rb20 was over-revving at 72-7500. Good luck tho, nice power and would love to see a video of a 9000rpm burnout

RX-7.... but above that a 2jz RX7.. that would be one of my ultimate rides

Be careful that the crank isn't cracked because every sr that i've seen do a big end has a cracked crank also... including mine

I saw a vr/s with 1 jz. I thought about doing this also, but what will you do with the mack truck like interior.... After driving a japanese car for a while, a drove my mum's vr and it seemed like a dinosaur inside. Thats just my opinion though

Definately BP ultimate. Like most people use optimax as a 2nd choice. As someone mentioned you need to pick a servo that has higher usage that way the fuel isnt old. I found BP ultimate to be more consistant that optimax. I dont think its a matter of skylines being tempremental, but and turbo car its fairly important. Most people here have some sort of mods, and running leaner and with more timing and boost than from factory it is more important.

I had a "very high flow cat", anda single muffler at the rear. It was quite large and not too loud, but under power sounded awesome for an RB20.

An addiction yes, but series2gtst is right... I had an 180 with 270rwkw and while an absolute blast to drive. You do have to be very mindful tho, its very easy to be doing 140 in a 60 zone in a short period of time, which would end your license for a few years.... Not to mention that unless your a good driver (and honestly) you'll more than likely find yourself in more trouble than from the law. Once you get used to the power it doesnt feel as fast either or until you drive a lightly modified car anyway To give you an idea... i had a drag on the highway once, shifted from 3rd to 4th (about 135 in a 180) going around a slight bend, and the car wheel spun and crossed 2 lanes... That was with ok brand 225's on the back, so it wasnt like i was running stockies. Hmm but im not here to give you a lecture haha, i think my favorite was racing a hsv from the lights, taking off in 2nd and having the wheels spin till your past 100k's... it stops them from laughing at your bov anyway That said though, i was just about to take the car off the road for some more mods, for sure its an addiction and a good one at that

When i changed to my atmo venting bov i found it popped on off throttle and some gear changes, especially when the exhaust was hot.. Its just pumping excess fuel when the bov opens as the afm see's a lot of air coming in, but the bov is venting most of it out, hense why you'll get black soot up the back of your car and why in all honesty i shouldnt've changed to one

The biggest improvements i found with my 20 were a s2 rb25 turbo and getting a re-mapped ecu which was done by dr drift i think. The ecu netted the biggest overall gain tho, mid-range and throttle response were greatly increased, as were fuel economy and top end power, but wouldnt've been such a good upgrade with out the 25 turbo. I think value for money you'd be better off buying a re-mapped ecu in trade for your stock one rather than the safc... What about a gtr cooler? Im sure if you did a search you could find the VG30 A/R's

Or you can mount it somewhere in the front guard.. On my Rb 180 i had the filter mounted where the stock intercooler sat, and had a minor but noticible performance gain... Im not sure how the skylines are but i'd say you could put it in the same place

love that van... there are loads of videos with it in them on fullboost.

Pinging you will here a rattling or knocking sound coming from the engine bay, and wont cause a miss fire.

Im guessing that the 26 and 25 have the same firing order?# Other wise, cams, 6 throttle bodies would have a big impact, and exhaust manifold design... Are the valve sizes the same on the 25 & 26? I dont think solid lifters would have an effect on exhaust sound, apart from the cam differences. I had an SR with different turbo/exhaust manifold and sounded much different from any sr i heard before, very raspy and much tougher.... I think that the only way a 25 or an rb for that matter could sound like a commodore would be if it was non-turbo... But ive never heard a turbo rb make the fart like sound of the old 202, or any of the v6's.

I think they aren't in the same comparison. For me i want thrills from a car. I like nissans a lot, but the supra holds more for me, and is the only toyota that does. One fact is that you can easily get over 650hp @ wheel with bolt on mods.. If anyone has seen a video of the walser supra beating a hyabusa on the highway, it had 2835 twins, cams, 70hp nitrous, and stock bottom end.Try that in a gtst, or even a gtr. Also the gearboxes and diff's are much stronger. I dont know how many cars i've seen run 9's @150mph with a stock box and just a diff center changed. Handling can be fixed quite easily, but if your comparing stock 2 stock then sure you probably have a point. But with properly setup suspension im sure the supra wouldn't handle that much worse if any than a GT-T, and there is no way that with mild mods a GT-T would stick with it in a straight line. Thats just my opinion based on my preferences, im sure others have different tastes. Also i think the 2JZ is the king of sound... very tough sounding engine

Type-R makes a pkshhhhh noise, similar but quiter to the blitz.. IMO sounds like a typical bov. HKS super sequential make a high pitched whistle, and i've heard when you change the disks at the top they make a lower pitched sound, but if setup correctly wont cause reverberation.. As GTST said if you tighten it too much it will, but that sound is coming from the turbo not the bov, and is coming from the turbo because the bov isn't doing anything. WRC to my knowledge dont need bov's as with their anti-lag there isnt a problem with lag, and i dont think their turbo's shaft play would be a problem as i'd say they are changed much too often for that. I would think with the small restrictor on the turbo that the woop woop would change to a chip chip because its a much smaller hole... but once again as gts-t said there are so many variables into how reverb sounds.. to be honest i havent heard many cars that sound the same. I also thought there was a valve that made the wuup wup wop wop or whatever sound, until i bought my last car which was a sr20 180sx. It had a blitz bov, and when i bought it it made 2 different fluttering noises. 1 at low boost, then a much different sounding flutter on high boost. As it was running 2bar of boost, i thought the first one was reverberation and the 2nd one was the bov..... until oneday checking for a boost leak i found out that the bov was not even working, once fixed it made the terrible pitkshhhhhh sound the blitz make. I stand by GTST in that a correctly working bov will not make a flutter sound, and probably can not unless it has a fan spinning one way with air blowing through the other... and by the size of the fan i would say it would sound pretty daft. Goto exvitermini.com and movies/8thsin and watch the movies of that car, regardless if it has a bov fitted, it isnt working and that is reverberation.. is this the sound your after?

I think that 1.1bar is the maximum for an rb25 turbo on an rb20, and a bit too much for the rb20 turbo.. I ran upto 17psi for a while with no problems with a S2 RB25 turbo, but that doesnt mean there wouldnt've been eventually.. but it was a good few months of driving every day.

Water coming out of the overflow doesnt nesseserally mean a head gasket. My car used to do it when it was in traffic, but it had a hole in it as well... I also lost my radiator cap and cooked the engine... They will take a fair bit. It was that hot that it wouldnt run and was knocking during idle.... Picked it up in the afternoon and it was fine, but for sure i was lucky with that one.

Actually i wouldnt run too much boost with the rb25 turbos. S2's have a plastic compressor wheel, and both have ceramic exhaust wheels, so its possible to drop the wheels off still. I was running 16psi constantly with my S2. Before i had it tuned, and with a small boost leak which lost a lot of bottom end i still ran a 13.0 @105mph with a 2.1 60ft on crappy tyres. That was in a 180sx, but a R32 gts-t isnt that much heavier, so you can beat most commodores if thats what your worried about. One of the biggest differences was getting it tuned, top end was a little better, but the most noticable was normal driving and the mid-range... fuel ecomonmy was much better also. As someone said before, your clutch will go quickly, mine lasted about a week

Well if it is true, why would you need to ask the power output? I mean come on, i am not an engine builder, and thats not my engine which is getting built, and i could have a fair idea. No offence to anyone here, but if i was going to spend $10,000's on an engine, i wouldnt goto an online forum to find out what power it would be making unless i wanted to boast..... If the engine builder doesnt know then that would be a big concern for me..

If you still have the standard turbo you run the risk of loosing your exhaust wheel as its ceramic... Saying that on my rb20 14 with the stock turbo (turbo back exhaust, fmic and pod filter so less restriction) for a while without troubles, and 17psi on a S2 RB25 turbo... its probably not worth the risk tho.

Its actually something you can pick by ear. if the car is loading up it vibrates and sounds like shit bascailly. I found my rb20 if ther are no hills, and im not going to accelerate at all 70km/h was ok, but realistically 80km/h without putting excess load on the car

Untuned and driving slow lightly modded 350km Driving fast 250 Tuned with slow driving 400-450 Driving fast 320ish

Remember also you say the RB is cheaper to buy, but if the car already has the SR in it, there is no need to buy it. The RB does sound better (actually a modified SR sounds really tough, has a real raspy note), but the despite what a few people wrote, has less torque.. much less, its easily notciable. Also if you go with the RB, its only comparable to the SR if you change to the RB25 turbo. I've personally owned both, the RB20 having arouns 190rwkw and the SR 270rwkw and driven a lightly modified SR. To get the wheels to spin or take off from a rolling start in the RB, you would always have to fan the clutch, if i raced an sr and didnt do this, i would loose a couple of car lengths (the sr's neednt do this). I found driving the cars normally both SR's used less fuel because you could roll around a corner in 2nd at 1500rpm and accelerate slowly without the car loading up, not really possible in the RB. Also because the RB has less torque you are using more throttle, without the tuned ecu the RB was horrific on fuel, and bear in mind the SR had much bigger injectors. The other thing is weight distribution, and it IS noticable. Putting heavier springs does not change weight distribution. They both have their goods and bads, its just a matter of working out which ones are important for you, and others not, then make your descision on that! Good luck

I know everyone likes to stay legal etc etc, but nothing is funnier than the look people give when you have a screamer......