Travo

as MrKotter said.. Wrapping will cause your mani/pipes to become brittle. The wrap will keep the heat in and your mani/pipes will run hotter. This WILL lead to cracking if you have low quality parts and is only truly needed for race applications.

4 years in a skyline and Ive only been pulled over twice by the cops and no yellow stickers. First time, cause I was driving a little enthusiastically in front of them... my bad. Second time, after a booze bus i got pulled to the side and given a bit of grief about my wheels been to wide but i was let go anyway.

Pretty low km's, in storage since import (basically) and sounds pretty well looked after with a decent mod list. Sounds amazing but I would hold onto it, as people said above, with dead turbos/no rego/being in albany, $12k. Get turbos and rego and easy another $10k will add to the price.

Im fairly sure from an import yard R33 S2's are going for $14k to $16k pending km's Couple of yards.. http://www.dcimports.com.au/ http://www.autoworx.com.au/site/

Give it an air leak test. I had a few bad air leaks around the fmic. I was getting 320km - 350km to a tank just putting around with the odd boot. After fixing these leaks I get about 400km to a tank and obviously it drives alot better too.

I was tossing up between 3000gt, supra and skyline before i opted for a skyline. The 3000gt is a really nice car but you can't do many mods to it without spending much money. You can't boost it because the stock turbos are almost already at peak boost. So you have to buy bigger turbos (and everything else to match!) but I'm certian i read somewhere that only takes you a little way because the engine needs forging. As said before, there is no space in the engine bay to work with either which sucks for DIY fun. Because i wanted a car i could basically go to kmart and get performance parts for, i got a skyline, If you just want a really nice car that you dont want to change to much from stock (performance wise) go a 3000gt. They aren't everywhere and they have great performance from stock. By the way, is the nice one in kingsley the blue one with a full kit? that one does look really nice

Hi guys, I have had this problem since having a foward facing plenum installed but it never really bothered me until the hot weather appeared recently. On a cold start and the car fires up straight away, no problems, drives perfectly. Then i go for a drive, bring it up to operating temperature and park it somewhere. Then if i turn it off and try to start it 10mins later it will crank strong, barely fire up, idle at about 300rpm, if your quick u can pump accelerator and it kicks it up and it idles very high around 2500rpm for a few moments then comes down to standard idle and drives fine like nothing happened.. With the hot weather now, you have to be like lightning to pump the accelrator to catch it otherwise it stalls, and i cannot start the car at all for another 15mins or so.. at which point i get another chance to do the accelerator trick. I have cleaned all valves using the guides on here, checked for leaks and most basic things like that. Has anybody got ANY ideas on what i can do next to diagnose this problem?? or im booking it into garage to sort out and ill post what problem was.. engine mods: 10psi boost, full exhaust, forward facing plenum, front mount, stock ecu. Thanks for any help/info you can provide! Trav

i thought i had noticed a slight difference in my mates s1 compared to my s2 but it turned out to be the different pod filters. No whirring/whizzing noises though..

are you using thermo fans or clutch? if thermo fans sounds like their temp sensor switch might be buggered. If clutch I would be looking at thermostat & radiator. If you love your line, take it for a check up.

ill be there - all registered and ready to go

oh no love for neons anymore? it's probably only because everyone running past supercheap auto is sticking 2 12" tubes on their $2 rides and driving around acting like they are the ducks nuts. As mentioned above somewhere, as long as it's done properly it will look good (pending personal taste). If the neons are tucked up under the bodykit and they are bright enough to emit a decent glow effect evenly all around the car they look awesome. Get some rims, Get some coilies, Get a bodykit and an awesome paint job and then get some high quality neons installed properly and it will look great!

Hi guys, Well i have installed my safc following preds guide (in diy section) and my safc powers up and car seems to idle fine.. BUT going through the monitors i noticed nothing seems to be moving except RPM. My AF meter isnt moving off 0 and neither is the throttle. Another thing is it cannot rev past 2500rpm. It just revs up to and bounces on 2500. I have reset everything to factory settings and put it to standard R33 25t settings. I am fairly decent with wiring and it is exactly as done in the guide (have checked way to many times..) so i dont think that is the problem unless the pin outs are different in my car? My sensor check in safc says my int1=0.01 int2=0.01 and thr=0.04 Can anyone with a safc verify these are correct? car=r22 gtst s2 Your thoughts please

turn your climate control down as low as it will go (18?). If you have it set to say 24, the fan turned off and your window down, you would think your heater is off. In reality the heater is on (because its sensing it's colder than 24) but not blowing. If you have your vents set to "fresh" it will be collecting the heater hot air and spitting it out as it passes through the system. Wow that sounds confusing.. Just turn your temp to 18 and see if it still happens Hope that helps

took a couple days but i just got a mail, all locked in. Now to start burning some money for the show..

i believe this is it? http://www.perthstreetscene.com/ So who from here is keen on entering? I'll register this arvo - if i get in will be another matter haha

ill be down there spectating with a bunch of mates. Atleast in the day time i wont blind you drivers with my camera flash Give me some good skiddies!

aslong as both are working - take off the one you dont want and block it (and it's hose) up. Wont do anything bad. Can't imagine why u have 2 bov's.. maybe someone was to lazy to swap bovs so just bought a aftermarket pipe with bov on it and stuck it on?

This car looked hot at auto salon. Totally not your fault - tell him to get his cataracts checked Shame to see this happen but just think, it could have been worse right?

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Di...hl=idle+hunting if you have been giving it some - you may have just covered a sensor in a smidge to much grime. Now you have something to do on weekend

You can buy adapters for BOV's on ebay i'm pretty sure or some tuner places might be able to help you out with left overs from FF plenum installs and such.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/to...=plenum+install

wow a door stop, haha, thats a new one.. Watch it doesn't melt as where it is gets quite hot. Undo the 2 bolts, unplug vac hose and take off your current bov, slap on your new bov, tighten bolts and attach vac hose, adjust until it is venting properly. If you aren't using a safc/aftermarket ecu then you may encounter stalling problems and poor fuel economy. Search forums for atmo bovs and stalling for more info. cheers

Sorry to bring up an old thread but i have to ask.. I just recently went to install a safc and found that i have a mines ecu. Now before i start solderin away, will the safc still work fine with a mines ecu? I cant think of a reason it wouldn't but can you guys? cheers, -Trav

agreed - search the forums for this easy to make device as this saved me so much drama its not funny - best of all it cost me about $3 and 5 mins to make!

you must be talking about the plumb back line that goes to your turbo intake pipe? Yes you will want to block it off.. I have read some people using coke bottle lids, peices of dahl (round wood peices), a giant bolt, blocking plugs from auto shops etc etc.. search "coke lid" for some topics that will cover anything you need. cheers