NUTSGTR

no the block doesn't have to be pressurised, the pump simply has oil supplied by the pickup, the pump then moves the oil about the engine and backpressure is created by the tight clearances on the various bearing surfaces and oil journals throughout the engine. The only point an air leak would affect this is if, as skylinekid mentioned, there was a leak before the pump (aka somewhere in the pickup area). Reasons oil pressure can drop are excessive wear in the clearences i mentioned before (main and bigend bearings, cam bearings etc). But there still should be flow to the top end and at least some reading on your op guage.

Yeah that in itself is not good. Everything points to a pump failure or a major pickup blockage. I wouldn't go running it too much more till you get this sorted.

get hold of a mechanical gauge (even a cheap ass supercheap 1) remove the original sender and tap your mechanical sender line into the hole. Also you can check to see if there's plenty of oil splashing round up top by looking in you oil filler hole when engines runging but unless you know whats normal you probly wont be able to tell as there could still be some residual oil flicking around in there

Sorry didn't see this 1. These are some good ideas too

The sender is beside the oil filter. The only thing there with a plug on it. But yeah it is only a sensor and has nothing to do with the pump other than telling you when its not working. Its a sad story but i don't think you're going to fix this problem without ripping that engine back out again to replace the pump. Obviously you've checked your oil levels.

If ur oil pumps not working your top end will be rattling and pretty soon you'll be up for another engine swap. I'm guessing you're not getting a reading on your oil pressure guage? Check that wiring loom that you run from the alt/starter. Thats around the same area as oil pressure sender so maybe you've knocked it off by accident.

How did you check ignition timing? From the loop near the ignition module or at the plug itself? I've seen 20 odd ign diff between the 2 with pfc with cheap timing lights. Its an obvious diff on the cas 1 way or another if its way off centre. Ive also seen the locating tangs on the ex cam break off therefore offsetting the timing depending on where it slots in causing the same symptoms. Couple of ideas

Why on earth would you ask if this guy was street racing? No indication in his post whatsoever...

This is all true mate . Often the oil pressure sender will fail and read low pressure (very common as said and oil light is on guage unless bulb is shot) You still getting pressure afterward? I hate hearing this with fellow rb owners but its nearly a fact of life... if you rebuild it... replace the oil pump. and /or crank collar with early r32 engines. Oil light should come up during ignition start up. Easiest way to remove oil pump is remove engine...remove sump. You've probly heard it before but oil pressure is utmost important and i wouldn't touch a car fo any sort of maintenance if it was reading an abnormal oil pressure. I wouldn't even drive a car if i thought something was suss! All in all from what you've indicated as the cause a spun bearing requires a bottom end rebuild anyway. sorry to hear.

Will you separate the pineapples... Very interested... C'mon you were waiting for it

Also interested in the crank. PM sent

PM'd

sounds like afm problem dude. clean them both up with contact cleaner or something similar and give that a go. also clean up both ur afm plug connectors. if not i'd be guessing one of them's stuffed. hope that helps mate.

Thanks l'co. The engine we did this conversion on was from an r33 GTR. The main wiring issues were in combining the two looms. I try to do things pretty spot on and if it don't look like it should be there it ain't goin into 1 of our customers' cars. You've all seen those conversions with plugs that aren't connected hanging around and such. There are alot of inputs to an r34 ecu that just aren't there on an r33 gtr ecu. The only real issue was to swap things like the abs motor wiring and a couple of other things that escape my mind this instant and integrate them in the 33 loom. Admittedly, in the process the r34 loom was sacrificed for the better good. Anyway other than that, there's the obvious inclusion of the gtr injector resistor pack, a few alternative wiring modifications for the fuel pump relay (the gtr utilises a fuel pump control module) wire it up to power and hey presto! Basically if you have a decent amount of experience in reading wiring diagrams and fair soldering skills, you could probably do this job (given the time) as well. Just remember MINUS goes to red and PLUS goes to black, right? TIC. BTW All the wiring diagrams and all the info you need are/is on this forum.

I thought he meant some abomination by FORD . My question is what are you going to do about the nylon bush that may be floating around in ur g/b?? it should not have jus "disappeared" if thats the probs.

Ageed. Rear HICAS reservoir??? There are sensors in ur steering column as you know. They read a fault if you need to hold your wheel at 20 odd deg off centre either side for a long period and you go over 70-80 kph? Check ur wheel alignment.

I'd install both sensors. You'll have two independant boost indications that way which doesn't hurt. I've had the controller sensor stuff out on my car giving the controller a lower pressure signal than it should have. As you can imagine, boost kept rising and it was only after the increase in power I noticed that I checked my boost guage for confirmation that the controller was reading wrong. Also i'd say you'd be lucky to find an electronic guage that is calibrated to the voltages supplied by the controller sensor, unless by the same manufacturer maybe.

Hey Dude, I'm after the window weather seals that run along the top of the doors if you've still got them. RHS in particular. Cheers, Luke

Im wondering about ur ecu. I'm assuming the ecu is factory but is it from an auto or a manual? As the car is about to change gears in an auto, it needs to reduce torque from the engine for a nice smooth gear change and it does this by pulling timing. Perhaps your ecu thinks its hooked up to an auto and thinks that 4-5000rpm is when it should be shifting? Any chance of this? Can you find an ecu you know is from a manual and swap em over?

In all seriousness i was trying to make a bit of a valid point. RB30 Ceffy said he had this problem with a previous engine in the car. Every1 seems to wanna find faults with his current engine setup when perhaps its a problem with the driveline/chassis. Maybe his brake system isn't up to scratch. He's ruled out just bout everything else and he wanted ideas! Probly wrong but whats the harm. Geez settle on the tude dude.

Yeah, try the 2wd idea for sure. 1 thing i know is the attessa system relies greatly on left and right g-force to decide on its level of activation. The latteral g-sensor may not be working as advertised, giving a greater voltage to the computer in one direction and not the other. The only reason i mention this is because i've done a little experimentation with a home made attessa controller and this was a similar problem that i encountered when biasing the voltage to the computer one side more than the other. I didn't take it on the track though so i didn't push it real hard. A good troubleshooter for this would definately b to de-activate 4wd and and see if the problem persists to a similar extent. This maybe a bit of a long shot but electronics fail also.

Hey Dude, I know this is p**s weak but I just couldn't help myself; have you taken the handbrake off? :laughing-smiley-014: Sometimes the obvious is the answer... sometimes its just stupid.

The standard balancer has rubber mounted v-groove pulleys which i've seen compress on 1 side presumably (correct if i'm wrong) from sitting for years at a time on an engine that has rarely been started, such as in japan pre-export. The belts are obviously still tensioned and are continually pulling in 1 direction on the balancer, the rubber goes hard over time, and you are stuck with an out of balance balancer. Don't know about that if urs failed after doing donuts. Have you done a compression test on ur engine? If 1 of ur cylinders has lower comp for some reason it could be vibrational. Could also explain the lack of power. Just a thought.

I had a bad vib around 1500- 3000rpm in my rb26 then not so bad but still noticeable through the rest of the rev range. Turned out it was the harmonic balancer bolt had come loose (or maybe the previous owner didn't tighten it enough). Also a definate lack of power in accordance. Anyway I spun the balancer and chewed the keyway on the crankshaft. Obviously harmonic balancers are there for a reason; they add weight where there isn't enough and take it away where there's too much. When they spin they kinda emphasise the bad and reinforce the good which doesn't work. Well it was kinda expensive...like new crank, balancer and bottom end freshen up expensive. Have also had the oil pump go as well. Doesn't vibrate just gives no oil pressure and starts to get a little sluggish. Check ur harmo bolt for starters i'd say.

Just hold ur starter motor there by hand!! LOL. Take ur clutch off, bolt ur gearbox up with a coupla bolts, throw ur starter motor on ur bell housing and franks ur aunty. Only ur engine spins.