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sav man

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sav man last won the day on June 4

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About sav man

  • Birthday 03/20/1986

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    Tasraceia

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    BNR32, HCR32, M35 Axis
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    Ben

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  1. VQ35 make bulk power and torque easy with a turbo. I''m guessing they are easily avaliable in the US as the 350z was sold there
  2. What mods are allowed in the class?
  3. There is a bit at the top of the rules that says that if it doesn't say it can be modified, it can't be modified. So there would need to be a rule to say you can run and extra or external waste gate. Also the EM2 says "as fitted to vehcle" so they didn't come fitted with the gate welded shut. If you have an 89 shell you have to run in classic, you don't get a choise. The standard manifold and turbo housings are finefor tarmac rally. I don't really understand why they allowed twins to be swapped for singles with external gates. But singles can't be upgraded to an external gate.
  4. EM has always been a pretty unloved category from Targa's side (even though it did hold the bulk of the field). My EM times from the past seem to be on par if not slightly quicker than the current Classic GT cars. Then i'll have the extra engine/gearbox/Tyre site/fuel freedoms over EM. So it should be a good challenge. Pete Nunn was the fasest Classic GT runner of the past few years and he was running a EM spec 944 Turbo. I think poeple are getting far to worked up over the LS being in classic, the Holden V8 made heaps of power under the rules. But you can run a LS for about a 10th of the price.
  5. Cause I want to run Classic GT and Targa are now running with the VIN to determen the build date. That's why there are now cars spread over different classes. I'm guessing they don't want classic being flooded with late 80's japanese cars, so they've made it harder
  6. So first steps have been taken for Targa next year. I now have a 1989 shell ready for classic. Just need to cage it and touch the paint up haha
  7. I'll dig some photo's up. But I used the height of the oil return for the RB26 but put it just infront of the cylinder 1 webbing on the hot side. The line just runs directly to the cam cover to allow the internal baffles to separate any oil and air. Then the breaters from the cover go to the catch can. The root cause of most of RB oil problems is there is no external crank breather. so the oil drain holes get used instead, which stops them working as drains. L-seriers and SR engines have external breathers, so we copied that idea
  8. Have a look at putting a crank breather on the car. I drilled a hole in my block and run a -10 line to my cam cover, takes the pressure out of the sump and allows the oil to drain back through the factory drain holes. I also did it to a mates car and it went from filling 2x 3l catch cans in a couple of laps to only putting e85 residue in the catch can. Also worth getting RB26 cam covers (if you can find them), they separate the air/oil heaps better then 20/25 Drain from the catch can to the sump won't work unless you have a pump on the catch can.
  9. The 4.6 from the Sentra is pretty much just a bolt in item. The front bolts have big bushes like a GTR, but I just got some solid bushes turned up so it would mount as standard. I've got a Nismo Pro 2 way, but you can use the crownwheel and pinion on the standard centre. 5th is too tall to pull, so the shorter diff will help. E85 also wakes them up a bit (and drops 200c from the EGT), the fuel usage isn't as dramatic as people make out. Might be worth looking into a GTR fuel tank, they are 73l and plastic, I run one in mine.
  10. I've got a 4.6:1 diff in my car. Depending on wheel size you should be able to get 270-280kph. With a 4.3:1 at Phillip island I was able to pull 260 kph and that's one of the biggest straights in Aus. I havn't run with the Phillip Island with the 4.6.
  11. I run Penske in my Gtst, but it took a bit of mucking around the get the valving right. 450lb front and 375lb rear works for me. You can run a 4.6:1 diff out of a sentra that will mask the lag. But keeping a small turbo and running E85 is really the only way to minimise the lag wihout opening the engine
  12. The head has to be off the engine and cams removed, but yes i've had head skimmed with the valves still in it.
  13. I was going to go down that path, even have a inlet gasket to make a manifold adaptor. But Targa rules changed again, so 26 crank and rods and a slight bore to bring to to just under 2.2l. Swap the RB20 highflow for a Neo highflow
  14. I finally got round the pulling the engine down. The head had barely been marked, so that's a win. The bottom end is quire the mess though. Pretty sure I found that the broken rod bolt, looks like a clean brake compared to the rest of the mangled mess
  15. Yeah it was pretty uneventful from the inside. I assumed i'd melted a piston, but my mates informed me when I got towed back in that there was a loud bang and there was bits all over the track. The bottom end is stock crank and rods, arp rod bolts and ross pistons. I've been using those rods since 2011, so they have done alot of work and I think i put the rod bolts in around 2012.
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