rawd

hey all really just a plea for charity anyone got a spare tailshaft bolt and nut lying around for an r200 diff (r32 gtst)? i'm in wollongong but willing to pay postage thanks rod

non-abs for those that have asked.

make some offers peeps

lyons when i said bump, i didn't mean sabotage - the shims are worth $20 themselves AndreW_R32 - thanks for the great suggestion man - i really appreciate it. i am trying to sell the diff cos i've upgraded, i'm not trying to get a new one. PMs replied and yes, 5 bolt half shafts are included

* 2.8mm of total preload - sorry 2 x 1.4mm shims

THE GOOD Have a shimmed r32 gtst r200 diff with 4.36:1 ratios. It was the perfect diff for me. Never skipped wheels when parking but reliably locked up 2 wheels on power and could feel it pushing through corners. Think it was 4.8mm of total preload. $70 is a good price.. but see below THE BAD When I got it shimmed 6 months ago, the mechanic put one of the spacers in wrong and it chipped the gears a bit when i tried to reverse off the hoist. Took the diff straight back out, put the spacers in right, and continued as normal. As a result, it's pretty whiney. So, this diff would suit someone that doesn't give a shit about the sound and a worn ass diff. The LSD centre and casing are fine so I am willing to separate if you want for cheaper postage. THE UGLY You can contact me on 0401409488 or [email protected] I'm in Wollongong NSW but moving to Sydney soon.

that oil return pipe is awesome will you post?

hi all my 4.3:1 rb20det manual lsd diff chipped gears about to buy an open r200 out of a rb20e manual cos it has the same ratio (from my research) will the open r200 gears bolt to the lsd one? will my stock half shafts still line up? also, got a lot of metal shavings floating around my diff.. is this going to affect my lsd centre, bearings etc? would appreciate any recommendations on cleaning if so thanks

what ratio? is it super clunky? where are you located?

sorry folks only after r32 gtst or similar gear ratio wasn't sure if r33 gtst was the same but found out it isnt thanks

still got the diff? call me please - 0401409488

looking at a couple locally (Wollongong-Sydney) cos i've found interstate postage is ~$40 may get back to ya's next week thanks

$300 is a bit much where are you located, sam? PM sent to DFAULT cheers fellas

hi all, my diff is starting to go could you please PM me some offers for your r32 or r33 gtst r200 diffs would appreciate if you could include some info about condition of your diff, if it's shimmed etc thanks, rod

another bump.. would also like to know (a) what size shims you used and the results (b) the longevity of the locking © how long till your diff f**ked out

Update: Used a smaller spacer and the problem was fixed. Had to make sure the spacer was properly insulated. Thanks for ya help.

cheers jack i agree, been reading up since i posted this and only thing i can think of is the frayed wiring or the spacer is causing a short.

hey folks recently had some alternator charging woes so removed the wires on the back of the alternator and reconnected to check if that was the problem. ended up putting a spacer on the bolt that the lugged wire connects to (see bolt circled in image below) as it was missing and the lug was moving around a bit. i did this all with the ground cable disconnected from the battery. when i put it back on, the ground cable sparked on the neg terminal and blew my 75A main fuse. car still starts and stuff but electrical shit in the car does not work. got a mate's fuse and it did the same thing - blew it up (sorry joey if you are reading this). anyone have any ideas what it could be? i didn't change anything in the car while fiddling with the alternator. battery, alternator or electrical wiring in the car? i used a metal spacer from the inside of a popped bearing - could the material that this is made of make any difference? also, where is the best place to get the 75a fuse and approx price? thanks in advance.

shit.. that is gnarly thanks for the heads up - I will def check it out. been reading about preload and it seems like it might be the solution to my problem.

Hey all, I am fighting an uphill battle with my 17x8 +5's on my 4 door 32. Rolled and flared the guards and things seem fine when driving normal. As soon as I give it a hit up a windey hill or go to slide it, they seem to scrub. 1. On a flat guard, even if they are scrubbing, is it OK seeing as it's not cutting into the tyre just scrubbing it? 2. I've seen people dump their cars almost on the tyre and seem to drive/drift ok (pic below for example). How the hell are they not scrubbing? Is it aftermarket camber arms or super stiff springs or something? I'm running stock camber arms and have HSD HR coilovers (f:8kg r:6kg i think), guards sit about 1-2cm above the tyre. so it should be fine.. 3. Would spring pre-load make a difference? Dampening perhaps? I could probably experiment and find a fix but I am sick of jacking up the car and taking my wheels on and off.. would rather some advice from someone who's gone through this shit before and won. thanks

can you please PM price for driver side headlight and indicator posted to 2500

good point. where do you work? are you able to buy greddy sensors on their own?

how much you want?

cheers chris. i'll make sure to get a temp sensor with the water temp gauge. anyone tried mixing and matching sensors and gauges?

hi all, have a temp sensor for a cheapo drift water temp gauge and about to upgrade to a greddy gauge are they all the same or am i going to have to get a greddy temp sensor to suit the gauge? can get pics/more info if req cheers, rod