rawd

could you please give me the price for the following: dipper (indicator) switch - headlight switch - the shitter version of the power window switch - thanks

so does this replace the original a-pillar or you just bolt it over the top? does the gauge have the wiring loom and stuff?

SOLD

pretty sure it's a replica - genuine NOB wheels go for like $500 and I picked this one up for $200 posted from the states good pointer on the GF issue. maybe i'll just colour the stitching red and she won't know the difference haha

Item: 330mm Nardi Nobuteru Taniguchi replica Location: Wollongong, NSW Item Condition: Like new - 1.5 month old - car is driven maybe 3 times a week Reason for Selling: Girlfriend bought me a deep corn. If I can't sell this then I will be putting up the deep corn one for sale cos I am quite happy with this one. Price of that one will be $375. Price: $180 posted EXPRESS ono - bought it for $200 posted to me from the States so you decide what you're willing to pay Extra Info: Comes with horn button and horn cable Contact Details: [email protected], 0401409488 or PM Pictures:

yeah i think its dump and front in one not split pipes like the one in the pic though going to try attack it with the dremel when i do my turbo change. fingers crossed.

I want to run 12 psi on the r33 turbo - right now I can't get it under 14psi Could be a gtr - replaced by the previous owner maybe. Still doesn't explain the disconnected actuator still climbing to 9psi. Think I swung the wastegate thing the wrong way though when i disconnected it so I'm gonna do the test again - plus it's fun giving it with the wastegate roaring. X-force exhaust with twin pipes instead of cannon. Thanks for the short answer - I guess I'll run r33 actuator with the boost controller then. Cheers.

oh shit actually it is getting about 90 degrees starts at around 10 oclock and swings anti-clockwise till about 5-6 need to take geometry again i think f**kk. so it should be opening all the way.. could it be that i didnt wire it open? thought that exhaust gas would be suffiencient to push it open.

stock rb20 on rb20det don't think that's the issue. i'll be swapping over a turbo in a couple of weeks so i'll make sure the r33 turbo doesn't hit before going on. reckon a dremel is powerful enough to scrub a dump pipe down if that's the issue?

moves around 50-60 degrees, i do get your drift though. how far should it be swinging? if it swings as much as it should, could it still be hitting inside? factory heat shield on a stock rb20 turbo.. shouldn't be an issue but i'll check anyway to be sure.

shit. what a pain in the ass. x-force dump pipes on stock rb20 turbo

hi all, ------------- quick question for those that don't want to read the rest: does running a 7psi or 10psi actuator make a difference in boost response if i am running a boost tap controller? theoretically the boost controller should keep the wastegate completely shut until a certain level, right? ----------------- long version to help those with infinite boost issues in the future: i have a hybrid boost controller installed on my rb20. ever since i bought my car it has boosted to 14psi even on its lowest setting and finally got around to investigating. 1. took the boost controller out and routed vacuum line straight from compressor housing to STOCK rb20 actuator. took it for a spin and still boosts to 14psi but just more gradually due to lack of boost controller solenoid. 2. took the actuator rod off the wastegate thingy and took it for a spin. gunned it up a hill in 2nd till 6000rpms and it only hit around 9psi at 6krpms after a laggy build-up. i have an aftermarket x-force dump but i am pretty sure the wastegate isn't hitting it. the wastegate swingy thingy on the outside hits the heatshield attachment first before anything else. so my wastegate should be opening all the way if i don't go straight to 14psi, right??? 3. so, went back to the vacuum hose from nipple to actuator, pulled it off and chucked a new one on to eliminate the split hose issue. went for a spin and still hitting 14psi. 4. now i'm here. i assume the actuator is f**ked but dont have access to compressed air to check. might get my girlfriend to try and blow 10 psi into it - hahaha. so this comes back to my quick question - i'm chucking an r33 turbo on soon and it has the 7psi actuator. should i run the 7psi or the 10psi r32 one with my boost tap for best responsiveness or it won't matter? could anything else be causing my overboosting problem that I haven't covered, cos the last thing i want is blowing my new turbo if it's something engine related. thanks folks

anyone want the 17x8's if i get the 7's? PM me

quick update - cleaned and tightened all ground contacts i could find around the car battery is now sitting between 12-13v on standstill which hasn't happened since i've owned the car starter motor still doesn't turn over first time/every time, but it's definitely doesn't f**k up as much. thanks again for your help folks. saved me a lot of money i don't have.

still got the starter motor? how much do you want for it?

i just spoke to a friend that had a similar problem - only low volts when the engine was not running - and he said that it could be a starter motor issue. is this logical?

hey sloupos, yeah pretty sure i can pop off the caps and top them up. going to check out a few places tomorrow. thanks mate.

awesome. thanks fellas, this is exactly what i needed to start my mission. actually the battery is quite new (3-4 months maybe) and it still has warranty so i'll get them to check it out for me. when i watch my volt gauge during start-up i can see it drop to 10, sometimes 8 so it definitely could be that. it never sees above 12 when the engine is off. i will try cleaning the contacts as well cos i've never actually done that. alarm is old and shit. siren doesn't go off ever but the pager does so that's why i've kept it. thanks again all.

more info: voltage drop doesn't just happen on start-up. sometimes when i get out of the car and press the keyless entry the car won't even have enough volts to lock all the doors. i usually have to either keep trying or put the key in the ignition and crank to bring the volts back up. shit - i know this could be one of a million things but i appreciate any input

hi all, have an issue that has been pissing me off ever since i bought the car - hope there's someone out there that might have an idea of how to fix it cos i can't afford to see an auto-elec right now. on start-up when i go to reds, sometimes it will go straight to 12v and crank first go (most of the time needs a bit of gas but i think that's cos my car is running rich) other times when i go to reds, voltage will drop < 10, lights dim, fuel pump will struggle to prime and starter motor struggles with clicking noise and i have to get on the gas or keep turning it over to get it started. usually if i keep trying to turn it over a few times with the key the volts will eventually rise back to around 12 and it will start. each time i turn the key i hear a single click - not sure what this sound could be but it strangely sounds like its coming from the door. alternator is pretty new - charges at 14.2 when running. battery has been tested by the place i bought it and it's fine. could be my alarm and the clicking sound is the keyless entry? bad ground somewhere? battery is actually screwed? i have no idea but would like some ideas on how to diagnose so i can either take to auto elec for a quick fix or fix it myself. thanks in advance. rod

I'm located in Wollongong, NSW. Chasing r33 GTR rims in silver, just the pair PM me with some prices and pics I can organise a courier to pick them up from you Also interested in a set or pair of 17 inch meshies around 8 or 9 wide with similar offset ~+25 +30 THANKS!

bought some seats off this guy last night his car is mint free bump

pm'd are you busy this weekend for me to come out and get some stuff?

pics of the shiftlight please how much posted to 2500?