Don Dada

well i hooked up the pfc again today switched off the feedback control and nothing happened! Afr remained the same and the O2 voltage (1&2) remained the same. Also with it on or off O2(1) kept constant at 0.84v where as yesterday it was cycling between 0.04-0.88v I pulled out the vac line for the brake booster thus creating an air leak so the wide band went lean and while peddling the throttle it was cycling the afr from rich to lean and the voltage on the O2(1) sensor bounced between 0.0-0.98v which seems up to scratch. O2(2) however remained at 0.0-0.2v I know there must be a few stock gtrs well with pfc installed. Could some one just run outside, and check their hand controller and tell me what the voltage reads for the O2 sensors when the car is now started and after warming up.

Ok i understand now. But what difference should it make to tell me if the sensor is bad, being that the pfc is running on its base map?

Not sure what u mean???

OK some more info..... Hooked up a pfc out of the box (UNTUNED) and got the following With the ign on O2 (1) 0.04v With the ign on O2 (2) 4.56v On idle O2 (1) fluctuating between 0.04v - 0.88v On idle O2 (2) constant at 0.12v AFR at 12.5 At 1600 rpm O2 (1) constant at 0.92v At 1600 rpm O2 (2) constant at 0.14v AFR at 10.8 and couldn't rev any higher because it was starting to break up. Also tested and got a 12v for the heater supply at the two sensors. So i guess O2 (2) is screwed?!? And why O2 (1) is only cycling at idle, and not when revved to 1600rpm What do u guys think?

yeh stock fpr and bov could it be the 95 fuel?

Not sure about that. Had two rb25s before and they idled at 14.7 sometimes even lean as 15.5

Quick question guys...... Is it normal for rb26 to be so rich on idle? It sits anywhere from 11.6 to 12.5 on idle once the engine is up to temp. Thought it was a little strange so i checked it out on another 26 what do ya know.... same thing! These two 26 however are not in its "original" gtr chassis, so i just wanted to confirm if a original gtr behaves the same,or if there might be a problem with the wiring when it was transplanted. Both are R33 engines running stock ECUs, 3" exhaust, 12-14psi, one with walbro pump,one with bosch, intake pods and using 95 fuel. The car pulls very good ,no misfiring or hesitating, although i find the idle is a little lumpy and it uses a lot of fuel and my rear gets a little black soot after a while. Is this normal?

Well just need to sort out my boost control and then look into sourcing some gears. Like i said i'll be doing it my self so when the time comes i sure i'll need some advice then. And about the timing belt..... i don't think it would make sense to pay for shipping to the next side of the globe!!! Thanks anyway.

Definitely would be tuned on the dyno. With these slight adjustments made to the gears, is it easy to make it detonate or should i be safe with the stock ecu? That being said...... did u pick up any unusually high knk on the pfc while dialing in your gears?

To tell u the truth i love the idea of getting a pfc along with the cam gears to make for a more or less stock good working 26 but.......That's the reason i swapped out the 25 for the 26 to start with,so i could get decent power without using any type of engine management. U see where i'm from there are few ppl who are capable and whom i trust to tune my car so i basically do everything my self ,so i would prefer to just get the gears done using the stock ecu,profec b @14psi, (intake,exhaust and fuel pump already done) So it all comes back to if it would make sense to fit the gears on stock ecu with all the other supporting mods.??? My objective is to get boost on a little earlier (geeze...i miss the 25) and a fat a$$ midrange...... screw top end

So cam gears is a must to get this 240 - 250rwkw with the supporting mods i mentioned previously??? Also if Beer Baron could jump in, i would like to know if when the gears were fitted and tuned , did affect your afr in any way?

Well its known that adjustable cam gears on a 26 increases power, but most ppl here have done some sort of ecu tuning at the same time to achieve good results. It was seen that Beer Baron made about 26kw by tuning cam gears alone on a 26 that already had a pfc fitted but the tune left untouched. Is it possible to make this kind of gain with a STOCK ecu runnin stock turbos, 3" catless exhaust, intake pods and 13-14psi (R33). Thanks.

Is the ignitor grounded? If not do it!

Well after some fiddling,cutting,grinding and the use of some colorful words i got the oem valves to work. I used some 2" air breeder hose and changed one of my 4" cai pipes to a 3" Cant even hear the blow offs talk to each other right now cause i'm driving with just the front pipe alone.

Ok Ill be running stock turbos at 13-14psi. I was just wondering if this valve would be able to discharge the volume of air necessary to have the system working properly. I noticed when i had this valve on the 25 it made the fluttering sound when releasing from small throttle openings....Was this compressor surge,or is it just the way these valves work? Probably have to do something with the adjustment? Thanks again.

Well i'm in the process of fitting a 26 in a C35 an getting some problems to pipe the stock blow offs back to the intake. The OEM plastic cannot work because of the two 4" pipes i have for my CAI so i was thinking of using one greddy recirculating valve with some sort of 1" flexible hose back to the intake The stock pipe where the stock blow offs come back into one is 2" and i just dont have space to run such a big flexible hose back to the intake either, not to mention i cant even get a flexible enough hose in that diameter to buy. So my question is..... Why Gtrs use two blow offs even though they come back in to one commom pipe back to the intake?!? And will it be a problem if i use one greddy recirculating valve(attached) instead??? Any help ASAP will be greatly appreciated

got the mounts sorted already, used the 20 and modified them. i'll have to make over a line ,it's my only option. Thanks

Well i've put on the 25 pump, bracket and also the belt and it does not line up, it touches on the harmonic bal. because the pump now sits a little more inside. Anyone?

Just thought i'll update as to what had to be done for the 26 sump to fit in the C35. One problem i've come across though is the power steerin pump..... the high pressure line does not line up. What have u guys done??? Use the 25 pump??? Does the pulleys line up using the 25 pump or do i need to change the bracket as well??? I also noticed the 26 pump uses a slightly thicker belt, if i use the 25 pump what belt would work to mesh the groove on the balancer with the thinner 25 pump groove???

Now i'm even more confused than when i started this thread

Can they be dipped in hot water with mild soap and cleaned with a soft brush? Will this get off the carbon gunk? My only concern with this method is them becoming warped. What do u think?

Well i've seen alot of people cleaning Rb26 throttle bodies and ending up with high idle problems. I am prepping the engine to go into the car and was thinking of cleaning the throttle bodies as it would be much easier to do now as the engine is out. Is there any "safe" method to go about cleaning them without removing the sealant or whatever Nissan put there? I looked at it today and all i can see is a fine grey line right around where the butterfly sits when it is closed...Is this the seal? Or should i just leave it as is????

It did not look like u had to modify the sump to clear the sway bar... correct??? However it looks pretty close,probably from the angle of the pic. How much clearance is there between them? Rb 20/25 mounts are the same right? That is the rectangle mount one bolt on top and one underneath.

thought so... Thanks

That sounds good...... Less work for me! What about the welsh plugs to clog the axle holes?