Don Dada

So true Guilt Toy!!! U guys have it nice in Aus. where there is lots of quality work, experience, and know how when it comes to designing, fabricating and tuning from the most basic set up to all out machines. Everything that is done on my car, i do it for myself (Rb26 swap in my C35)basically from knowledge gained on SAU and it's been going pretty good so far..... learned ALOT!. So thank u guys for dealing with us "outsiders" when we ask stupid questions and display or lack of knowledge So on that note..... Regan, where did u place the nozzle for the water/meth injection? Thanks.

I agree, the -9 seems to be a more efficient turbo. The stock ecu is quite capable of running with those turbos, the question is how much boost u want to run, because it will start to get a little lean in the low to midrange with increased boost levels.... a problem which can be helped a bit if u have an adj. fuel pressure reg. to bump up rail pressure a few psi.

Just curious...What full load timing u guys run on a stockish gtr running about 14psi??

Some one told me u could use an R32 gtr pump an remove the rear fin or something like that???

The O2 sensors are probably the only difference between the R32 and R33 right??? In that case if i were to use a R32 ecu on the R33, will it recognize the O2 sensors and function properly in closed loop?

I feel ur pain!!! Are u sure no one does that type or boring here???.... U should check in the "oil"

To tell u the truth running out of water/meth is the least of my concern as i check fluids in my car every other morn. and my trips are short. My main concern is either the checkvalve getting clogged or seizing or if using a solenoid, it fails. Having said that which do u prefer... solenoid or checkvalve?

We dont have competent tuners here to properly tune a pfc ,far less remap a stock ecu!!!

I checked out that whole additive thing before i settled on the water/meth concept. Toluene was my first option but just worked out to be far too expensive in the long run... so i could just imagine the cost of race fuel!!! Well if every thing works out i'll be installing a Coolingmist kit next month, so i'll let u know how it goes.

Ok I'm making 246rwkw now on Dyno Jet @14psi stock turbos, 3"exh, apexi pods with cai and the car pulls really smooth,although a little lean in the midrange since i installed the apexi pods with cai which i feel is contributing to knock, so i am interested to see the results with the water/meth and probably a little more boost than you were running.

Why did u stop at 13psi? Any particular reason?

Ok guys, have a few questions about the stock R33 Rb26 ecu.... Firstly i have read that the Rb25det ecu has a "low octane map" it uses when the fuel is not up to scratch to protect itself in addition to the R&R feature when the ecu senses too much air flow, also some kind of violent cut which some refer to as a boost cut and others a fuel cut. I have experienced these features on my 25 when boost is raised too high for the ecu liking.... but what protection does the stock 26 ecu offer? The reason i ask is that there is only 95 available here, and using a safc2 just to determine knock, i was able to get increasing levels with increased boost(as low as 12psi), and as the temp became hotter. Does this mean the stock ecu does not have a "low octane map"? because i could have trashed the 25 under the same conditions and get no knock! The 26 ecu however have pulled timing on me once, but that was when i think i adv the ign timing waay too much(fu#&ed up timing light) I will be changing the turbos to a set of -9 (GT-SS) soon and really don't have the paper to fork out for a pfc at the same time, so i was thinking of running the stock ecu and may be some water/meth since the stock ecu is designed to work on 100ron anyway the water/meth should be able to get me there. So on that note , how will i know when the ecu has reached its limits?? I was thinking mostly of maxed air flow voltage??? which at this stage u should get some sort of cut?... or may be maxed inj duty cycle? I know it will not be the optimum set up, but i think i could get away with it by maybe tweaking the fuel pressure a little and using the water/meth. What do u guys think??? I know R31Nismoid and a couple other guys upgraded turbos and ran the stock ecu..... your input pls

I've been battling with this for some time now.... I am planning to get a pair of Garrett -9 which is the no. one priority at the moment, so money will be tied up there for sure! My main prob is that i only have at best 95 available and i get knock with the stock ecu@12psi(not sure if 26 ecu has a low octane map), so its a toss up wether to get the water/meth and run it on the stock ecu or buy a pfc and get it tuned to suit the 95, running the -9s Like u, i just want to be safe, hence the reason of changing the turbos in the first place! Not really aiming for huge rwkw numbers. Ive done quite a bit of research on water/meth and its seems to be a definitely good "protection" measure especially in your case, as u would have less risk involved because u have the 98 to fall back on in case anything goes wrong with the system, ie. given that u don't tune extremly aggressive (lean mixtures and advanced timing). Once u can afford it......give it a go

Not in Aus. but isnt BP Ulitimate 98??? In that case you should get a proper tune done instead of trying to reduce your knock levels by using water/meth injection.

I was actually thinking the same thing, but guess what........ my mechanic says the head needs to come off!!! I will be using the manual for guide lines in terms of clearances and stuff, is there any thing special to look out for? Times like this i wish i was in Aus.

I have some noisy fu@%rs playing around in my 26 head that i believe are worn shims....kinda noisy tappets sound. Anyway just a quick question really.... Can the shims be replaced without taking off the head??? Mind u, i haven't checked the clearances as yet, but i guess the shims are the only culprits when it comes to this kinda noise?!?

What fuel do u use?

100% the blue tape is factory, and like others said the brown plug is a common bus for earths. All in all it looks factory to me.

Stock R33 oil pump, so i should be good to go. Any idea of how much boost i will be getting using the -9 with OEM actuators without any boost controller? Thanks.

Ok Is there enough space to slot it and maintain the seal properly? Actuators???? Oil restrictors???

Anyone know the rating of the actuator that comes with the Gt 2859R ??? Should i use my stock actuator? Also i see there is a fitting of what looks to be the oil drain from the turbo to the sump that comes with the HKS GT-SS kit..... Why is this included??? and is this, or any other fittings or changes that needs to be made when fitting the Garrett turbos??? Thanks.

Like i said, i do not want to base my decision to use Schaeffer solely on the results of the "bearing test" because i know that will be totally inaccurate..... Thats why i need u guys to check it out as i don't know shit when it comes to the specs when dealing with oil!!! I use Redline because it is highly recommended here, the only problem is that a little disappears after a while and this is with absolutely no blowby on a healthy engine. Redline cost me about $66 (5qts) Schaffer cost me about $82 (5qts) I've converted it to $AUD for your benefit. I believe Schaeffer is American based http://www.schaefferoil.com/

Hi guys Ive been contemplating using Schaeffer oil in my car for a while now but haven't seen anyone here that uses it, i am sure many haven't even heard of it. I've seen the "bearing test" performed with it and was quite impressed where it out performed many top brands. I know by no means i should base my decision entirely on this as this bearing test probably just covers one property of the oil, so can u oil gurus check it out and tell me what u think. I have been using Redline in my cars and i notice after a while a little disappears ie. in the Rb26 and also the Qg15.... and mind u, the Schaeffer is more expensive than the Redline!