Don Dada

I'm in the Trinidad in the Caribbean where Ti pipe is impossible to get, and i could probably count the number of Tig welders on one hand Can any other material be welded to the Ti reliably beside the Stainless?? Mild steel maybe???

Shit! I just need to cut and add in about 2 feet of pipe in the middle of the titanium exh. What do u recommend???

Quick one.... Can titanium be welded to stainless using tig???

Did u mean u had to use the R32 gtr alternator along with the R32 balancer for everything to line up???? It would be nice to see some pics of the 2 GTR balancers side by side. Anyone?!?

Can't find any info.... Is the R32 GTR balancer the same as the R33 GTR???

OK take it easy...... u sound like my wife!!!! Like i said, i'll place it about 4" away from the plenum. Thanks

Back Front Engine at TDC You can see the cracks in the rubber but no evidence it has actually rotated....beside the timing mark line up

anybody???

It is much larger than a R32 & R33 GTST balancer. I may be able to get a R32 GTR balancer locally.... a R33 on the other hand is like gold!!!

u put the nipple in your mouth!!! duhhh!!!

Finally.... someone who understands english..... Thanks for the offer but i'm on the next side of the globe!!! Can a R32 GTR balancer work???

The key and keyway is in perfect condition. I guess the rubber itself has moved, although it looks ok to me.

Well after a thorough investigation i am almost 99.9% sure that my harmonic balancer has moved on its center and is now showing a 5* advance at TDC. Meaning when the 2 cam gears line up with there respective markings on the backing plate, and when the dot on the crank cog line up with its respective mark on the oil pump and i slide on the HB, it reads about 5* i.e on the second line from the left. (keyways are good) Does this mean when using a light to set timing i use this second line as "0" degrees??? The engine is a R33 RB26 so instead of the 20* being on the 5th line it would now be on the 6th??? Thanks.

I see we are in the same boat!!! The water can cause damage to the compressor blades over time thats why most manufactures do not recommend u put the nozzle before the compressor. I am only going to use one nozzle but there are guys here that have used two, usually one before the cooler to aid with the cooler efficiency and one after.The problem with this though is water can puddle in the cooler,.... but again i can only go on what i have heard.... or read. Come on guys, what do u recommend for the 26 ????

Is it coming into boost at all? and if so does it happen at the same time? Some times piping might be slack an only when boosting it may push out and start to leak and then fall back into place and look normal.....so check all piping thoroughly.

TriniGT.... i think u need to set your rwhp target to avoid confusion.

Hi guys need a little help. I'm about to install a WMI kit on my RB26 and would like to know from those who have done it, and i guess also from those who have good reasoning, where is the bestest location for the nozzle??? Its basically the stock piping with the oem recirculating valves, but i would like to place the nozzle probably mid way in the original rubber hose which is about 4" away from the intake chamber, but i am concerned that this might be too close for even distribution across cylinders. My concern is that i want to get at least water/meth as possible in the intake piping so when the bovs open, there would be a minimal amount of water/meth being blown back into the compressor hence no damage to the wheels. My other option would be on the pipe that exits the cooler before the bovs,but again there would more spray back into the compressors. Your thoughts. Thanks.

What u smokin bro?!? Last time i checked 450hp was more like 335kw so the GT3076R should do it ....but with lots of boost!!!

Perfectly normal. Thats form the ac Sometimes even notice mine leaving a long trail when pulling in my driveway

The one on the left looks like ALL the plugs in my R33 rb26 ie. looks like its straight out the box. I run BKR7 @ 11.5psi most of the time and 13.5psi high boost. with the wideband hitting 12:1 at about 4500rpm and goes to 10.6:1 at 7200rpm -stock ecu. Is this a sign that the plugs are too cold??? U definitely have a problem though as all plugs suppose to show the same burn. What plugs do u use? U should get ur injectors cleaned and flow tested.

Just thought i'll post this here as i am going to buy a timing light in the next couple of days and i need an ans soon. So as the topic says.... What's the purpose of the variable advance setting and do need it when setting timing on an RB?

Keep it coming guys.....and again, would like to see how many of u actually damaged cylinders due to ceramic dust. Boost? Mileage? Track or street?

Can anyone tell me if the actuators included with -7, -9 Garrett turbos have adjustable rods???

Hi guys. Whats the purpose of having this variable advance setting on the timing light??? Would like to know if it is worthwhile getting one with this feature as i am shopping around right now. Thanks.

I guess u have a hard pipe there instead of the original rubber? What's the best fuel u guys get there? I'm going to install a water/meth kit on my 26 as well, as the best fuel available here is 95, so i contemplating on the best spot to place the nozzle.