br3ndan

I cant believe people are using 91/90 ron in their turbo skylines?!?! thats just stupid.... They are meant to run on super octane in japan which is actually RON97. Some people say its RON 100 but its not, its 97. I wouldnt touch the low grade fuel...... short term saving in petrol... long term going to cost you more for maintenance.. This is what i get. Car: 1995 R33 Skyline Mspec or series 1.5 whatever u want to call it... Petrol: Bp ultimate... 90% of the time from the same petrol station... same bowser. $ per tank: Very rarely ill let the fuel go below half.. as its not too good on the fuel pump. Kilometers Per Tank (Based On Driving Area & Driving Style): 420kms is what i got when i first tested it. my skyline is moderately modified. Other Comments: please dont use low grade fuel! For a NA you prob can get away with premium 95... bbut for turbo dont risk the pinging and knocking...

cant believe any of u guys are actually taking this seriously :S

lol this thread is a good laugh... hahaha...

^^ i stand corrected. Thanks for the info =)

go back to the dealer and ask him to install one... its illegal to sell a car without one.

Thanks for the reply, I am SOR, do you know any good shops i can get them from and approx cost? I'll probably change over all four corners to braided lines. Save the hassle on having to replace lines later when/if they leak. Ah, Im near convetrys so ill call them up in regards to my wheel bearings. Thanks for your help mate!

^^ I would call that ALOT of bad luck.....

So i notice my pads were a bit worn the other day so i thought it was a good excuse to upgrade. I have so far ordered and recieved Front and Rear slotted discs and EBC greenstuff sports pads for all four corners. I am now on the hunt to find braided lines, though im not sure where to get them from? I live in Western Australia is locally around this area is prefered or a trusted online dealer would also be good. I was also wondering is it worth putting braided lines on the rear. From my understanding the rears do very little work when it comes to braking..? The only reason why i went slotted for the rear was i would have to machine the rotor anyway when putting new pads in, so i decided to just replace it. Also the next question, since im taking the rotors off i thought might as well change my wheel bearings too. I know these can be sourced lcally from most car shops. I was wondering if a specifc brand would be best? As in oem nissan? Or just get one thats either made in japan or australia? Like NGK timex etc. If anyone got part numbers for a r33 gts t that would be of great help as well. Thanks in advance for the advice guys Brendan

im not really too sure about this statement. Ive been driving my import for about 2 years now... and before that i drove a V8 ute (While on my P's)... and before that on my L's i drove a Ford XE with a 351 in it... and out of all those cars and years (6 all up including my Ls) ive driven these performance cars ive never had much trouble with the police. Only alcohol busses and the 1 speeding fine. I have been pulled over once when i was in the hills cruising but the police were good to me and only had a chat and told me to get going due to the storm was coming. In all three cars i had aftermarket rims, exhausts ( The ute had dual exhausts coming out the side and sounded mean as), gauges ...etc etc The ford and the holden ute both had engine swaps to larger and better V8s. Not to mention i had dual throttle set up with two massive pod filters coming off them. The skyline is coming up to this point soon. I think it what it really comes down to is the following: 1. Your driving attitude... dont drive like a d*ck. I very very rarely will speed on public roads. One speeding fine ( Minor.. ) since i got my licence is 2004. 2. The way you have modified your car... All my cars have been modified to the highest standard. I do most of the work my self (I have a workshop) and always make sure i do a good job. This means no cable tieing front mounts on or any other dodgy work like that. This also goes for the way you look after your car. I usually clean my car weekly... so its always presentable and clean. Most people who have seen my car on cruises and around can vouch for that. 3. If the police officer if he does pull you over. Admit your mistakes if you know you have made one. On the other hand if you havent, then dont admit you have. If you intend to do the wrong thing, then be prepared to pay the price and dont be pissed about it. Having said all this, i would admit that there are probably few in the police force that would give a sh*t about all of the above... however ive yet to meet this police officer. just my 'bit' more then 2cents...

u using fibre glass copy front bar?? Wouldnt think a genuine bar/factory plastic would crack like that. Ive seen cars running genuine kits and hit much bigger things and come out less worse for wear then that.

unplug it

only needs to be secured... the boxed rule is only in the eastern states, not here. And there is no permit required for a pod filter. Tell the officer to get f*cked.

Buy rims that fit. Spacers.. grinding parts etc is as the person above me said, dodgy... Rims falling off the car isnt a joke :S See video below: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3oXGbVqfFMc

o they are starting to arrive already! thats good... hopefully mine arrive next week =D Sometimes it sucks being in the west! haha...

safe to top up. make sure ur using the same brake fluid tho... dot 4 or dot 3.. when i imported mine i wasnt sure what was in there so i changed it. I did this with every single fluid in the car. So now i know exactly what fluids are in there and how long they have been in there for. With the power steering just top it up. Castol power steering fluid should do the trick. Just so you know the fluids i used for my car are as follows: Coolant: Techoly Performance 100 Oil: Mobil 1 0- 40 ( about to change over to Royal Purple 10-40) Brakes: Castrol Dot 4 Diff: Castrol LSX 90 Powersteering: Castrol Power steering Fluid Gearbox: Red line light shock proof. Clutch: Castrol Clutch Fluid. I think thats all the fluids from memory...

some bov's like the blitz have a little allen key screw which u can tighten and un tighten... tightening this screw will make the spring harder and will not allow the bov to open fully under boost. This will also give you flutter. Untightening the screw will open it up and give you the normal sound.

ah thats good news... seems like a good event.. would love to get into that!

nice... any dmg to benson aka stealthed car? or did he just miss the barrier?

on the sau wa poker run which i went on (which i won btw hahaha) they used different patterns of hole punching in the cards to make sure no one cheated. Was good fun... keen to go on this one but car will be in my workshop getting upgrades ><''

let me know if u want someone to ride shot gun trev. I doubt my skyline will be ready by then...

dose is and sounds stupid. end of story.

just for the record it goes mild steel < stainless steel < 409 409 is the better type of stainless steel to use. Although not as pretty as regular stainless steel ..

that one looks like a Cusco rip off. Cheaper strut braces usually have some flex in them. Which kind of defeats the purpose of having one. Get a nice one.. im personally using Cusco... and it gave a huge difference in handling the moment i put it on.

type m or mspec as some people refer it to usually are the 1995 skylines (also known as series 1.5). These are a mix of the series 1 and 2. The longer front bar is the main way to tell a "mpsec" from a series 1 or 2.

as far as i know safc 1 2 and neo are universal products so can fit from civics to skylines to wrx's. Wiring should be very similar to the r33 rb 25 de.