Alex_r33s2gts25t

lol it was cool to learn seein how i had no idea.... but i think the sense of relief, outweighed the sense of achievement after it was done... Performance increase yes... she idles smoother and does everything smoother coming on acceleration, even accelerates noticeably quicker... but loud as hell... we went to an enclosed car park to test it nd i did a drive by past a friend under 60km/hr nd he said he could feel the ground shaking not to mention the enourmous roar defening everyone in a 5km radius... lol... ok so slight exageration but u get the idea and yes i need better tools lol... the $20 ratchet set from supercheap wont cut it lol!

ok so anyone that's thinking of installing your own turbo back exhaust that doesnt really know what they're in for: DONT DO IT.... cat back fine go ahead and knock yourself out... but that dump pipe is a **** to get off. I nearly gave up... not worth the hassle... oh and i didnt have a drill that can widen a hole in stainless steel cat... i dont think many people would lol... yeah the guys at the chop shop had to do that for me... even they didnt know if they could lol... he sharpened his drill bit on a grinder and we got lucky. As for the dump... chewed through my socket wrench adapter, and 2 13mm heads and 1 of the neighbours set lol i was scared we were gunna snap the bolts or thred them... had to call in reinforcements, a friends brother in law that had a massive socket wrench... the plate that holds the heat shield up was a bastard to get around i dunno how we did it to be honest... just wd40 the shit out of everything nd pray for the best... And then theres the silencer that thought it was welded inside the muffler tip... i showed it... had to jam a large bit of wood through the other end of the muffler and hammer the shit out of it... it took forever to get out... apart from those three things and an almost dislocated shoulder and stiff neck, 2 half days of work, and working by moonlight, everything else went peachy but seriously... dont do it... bewareeeee.. BEWAREEEEEE my neck hurts

Ok... whos idea was it to install this thing on my own?!?!?!?!!? lol just kidding.... its not exactly hard.... just a pain in the ASS.... so i went to supercheap... bought 2 ramps and some exhaust sealer... (it was about 2:30 pm when i started lol) pulled out the cat and pipes all the way to the rear... and managed 2 install everything from the cat back... 2 problems... the *@^@#^* silencer wouldnt come out of the freakin muffler... took us like an hour to get the retarded thing out had to push a big chunk of wood through the other end and hammer the shit out of it till it poped out... second problem... the sensor wont go back into the cat!!! It pops in but not far enough that i can screw it in... i think when they made the holes they left a small amount of metal at the base which stops it goin all the way through... gunna try to drill it out tomorrow... any other ideas??? i ran out of daylight... will tackle front pipe and the cat sensor tomorrow... the rest went together alright...

Hey guys thanx for the replies, i think ill have a crack at it later today or tomorrow lol... i emailed x-force to ask the recommended retail price and they told me 950 for the mild steel system... so when i shopped around croydon racing developments quoted me 1250 for system and installation, and i found the system elsewhere online 799 for the mild steel.... and with continued searching one came up on ebay a guy in sydney that sells exhaust systems... $680 bux it cost me... i picked it up to save on shipping, if anyone wants the sellers name lemme know nd ill find his ebay details. So last question... when i join the sections up should i be sealing them?? with exhaust cement/gasket goo?? Or is it fine to just bolt everything together?

Hey guys, i just got my exhaust for my car, a 3" turbo back Xforce sstem for my R33 GTST... its supposed to be a direct bolt on.... i phoned a couple exhaust places one quote $160 and another guy said he cant give me aquote because alot of the time they arnt direct bolt ons nd things dont line up so he gve me an hrly rate 70 bux/hr (which makes me kindah iffy).... i was thinking of having a crck at it myslf... how hard can it be?? Any one with ny experience on this have ny advice/tips/info on what i need to do??? Are there any tutorials? also anyone have any experience with the xforce system? Does it bolt right in??

Hey yeah the readings i gave are after you convert it to psi... the factory gauge goes to the line half way between 0 and the top line... and the boost gauge says roughly .7 bar... hence the 7psi/10psi Mods i did all back to front ... no exhaust yet its coming in the next week or two lol... if the guy of ebay didnt scam me!!!... but i put in an r34 sidemount intercooler, 3a racing power stack pod filter, polycarbonate cold air box/pod filter cover, and the boost controller and gauge... so she certainly inhales easier but still factory exhaust... its kind of a waste having the dual stage, with no ecu piggyback i cant go above 10 anyway so i can only ever use the lowest setting of the boost controller!!! if thats 10!! Is there a way to lower it? (without putting the factory solenoid back on lol)

Hey guys... i put a turbosmart dual stage boost controller in the car (r33gtst) (switch in the cabin lets u switch between high and a low boost setting) and installed a boost gauge on the other end of the intake manifold (opposite end of the factory gauge)... so with boost controller dials in their lowest setting... the factory gauge is roughly the same (7psi) and the aftermarket guage tells me im running 10psi. Which is correct? And why is my car running 10psi at the dials lowest settings shouldnt it be 7... how do i work out what my boost pressure is?

bump

Looking to buy a factory R34 GTT spoiler or rear wing... lemme know if you have one...

Item: Factory R33 GTST Airbox filter and snorkel Age: off a '96 model Condition: Good Price: $100 - make an offer - shipping extra - pick up welcome (newcastle) To Fit: R33 GTST Location: Newcastle

What does the actuator of an r32 look like? One way to increase the boost in the r33 is to install the actuator from an r32 as the spring is preset to 10psi... i dunno if this has anything to do with the way yours has been moded or not as i haven't looked at an r32 engine...

The 50:50 metho kero mix worked perfectly for me... as tangles said. Only problem was drying inside, i left it for 2 days nd it still dripped so i stuck blow dryer over one end and let it rip for about 5 minutes or so... it was cool to see in action, you blow hot air in and cooler air comes out the other side...

lol ill have a look under my hood tomorrow nd see the diff... ill also pass it on to a friend maybe hell know...

i should add where A goes to the intercooler piping: the intercooler hose connects to the other hose grouped with the one comming from the actuator with a T-peice and its this that connects to the boost solenoid. Your actuator looks ok????? i cant tell, Is there a hose comming out the top? It looks like the grouped hoses have been moved and pulled up onto the intake manifold??? I cant tell lol take a couple photos from a little further back (engine bay) so we can see the whole picture (both sides of the intercooler piping)

Ey dave... the original boost solenoid is being bypassed completely.. (on the boost solenoid) A goes to the wastegate actuator B goes to intercooler piping What other mods came with the car? And why u wanna run the original boost solenoid anyway? I cant work out what why yours is set up that way dont have enough knowledge lol maybe others can shed light here... what boost is your car running? have a look at this thread for pics http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/In...hl=manual+boost

"Another alternative to the Power FC or E-Ultimate is the Apexi AFC Neo and replaces the old SAFC & VAFC . It is an airflow converter so its main purpose is to adjust the air/fuel ratio if you want to run more boost. Nowhere near the functions of the Power FC or E-Ultimate but at half the price they are very good value and they look fantastic!" lol clearly i dont know the diff, so please enlighten me

umm isnt the new model safc called the neo?? Apexi neo... ive seen em on ebay for like 300 bux...

Hey guys, its been ages since i was last on the forums!! Anyway, my birthday is comming up and i need your advice on how to spend my birthday money most wisley on my car ... AUTO S2 R33 GTST - current mods - turbo smart dual stage boost controller (switch in dash), boost guage, pod filter, cold air box, r34 SMIC (the rest r styling mods nd dont matter cuz im talking performance ). Now what is gunna be the better option?: 1. APexi Safc/neo + dyno tune / gear box service 2. Exhuast - full 3" split dump and quality 3" high flow cat keepin size all the way to the back, mandrel bent with high flow muffler... Now i know most of you will say the exhuast first, most noticable power increase you can do to the car... but as its an auto i find the car isn't always consistent on its take offs... sometimes itll be smooth, othertimes itll launch sluggish or try and skip gears, diff results when u try diff things with the accelerator but i kindah would like a bit more consistency hence i was thinking a tune/afc/gear box service etc.... i dunno... what r YOUR thoughts???

Hey i got a question for yas: Other night was out nd about, anyway, i was pulling the lever to open my boot from inside the car and it did, and my friend went around behind my car (r33 gtst) to close it but i pulled the lever as he did... now the lever wont release the lock... and the key wont turn to the left to open my freakin boot?!?! lol im locked out of my own boot. How do i go about fixing this?? cheers alex

Make sure u flush it out, 50:50 metho kero mix and blow dry it dry before u whack it on... Also its prolly more than a night time job lol it took me in the vicinity of 7 hrs lol prolly cause i made it up as i went along

Yeah if yours is an auto you need an apexi safc.... or neo i think they r now... prolly pick up a second hand one for 200 bux if ur lucky. The turbosmart t peice... im not sure hey i think it may have a spring inside it?????? BUt i dont really see why it would?? Email turbo smart and ask them, they will be able to help u nd maybe replace the tpeice or tell u what to use... turbosmart.com.au lol

also your ground wouldnt be a problem, (what assuming) how the boost controller works, on the minimal setting theres no power to the unit... so it doesnt matter if its grounded correctly or not... then when u flick the switch to high boost setting power goes to the unit causing it to switch over...

its supposed to run at 5/7 psi at its minimal settings (what the factory setup allows) but for some reason mine boosts at 10psi at its lowest settings... which is annoying... so maybe you have installed it correctly... boost spike is a worry though... make sure all ur connections are tight to your hoses so theres no air leaking... go for a drive and floor it and take note of ur boost across a range of gears/revs.. if its steady around 5 or whatever start turning the low boost dial max half turn at a time then retest nd repeat and it should up ur boost! lol yeah but dont go above 10 unless uhave an ecu piggy back such as an apexi safc or power fc or shell run crap. ANd yeah even with that 12 should be the max limit for a stock turbo... u can set the low boost to like 7, and the high to like 10 until u get the piggyback lol, trial and error... the stock guage is connected to the top hose on the intake manifold, and my aftermarket guage is connected to hose commin of the bottom of the intake manifold (goes to the fuel pressure regulator). It shouldnt matter what hose you tap into, as long as its commin of the intake manifold. Are there any diffs in ur stock and aftermarket guage readings? Only other thing i could think of which might cause that is if u put the tpeice in the wrong way?? (or loose hoses) Not sure what happen as a result lol but it says to have the arrow pointing to the waste gate i think... id put a pic up but i dont have a camera lol...

Nah on the R33 the bolts line up perfectly... the hardest part is getting the front bumper off lol... the only thing that becomes a tight fit after u put the r34 one on is the wheel guard... but its flexible nd plastic.. so i just cable tied it back to its original holes at the base of the bumper because they wouldnt quite reach... its pretty much just a swap job

Hey the most important thing will be the head unit you choose, i put a clarion one in my car and it gave me no control over the sound and was shit so i got rid of it and put a pioneer one in which lets me control the mid low and high range requencies, bass and treble, can even set offsets so they wont play certain frequencies incase u crank it and the speakers cant handle it... but yeah... if u gunna go cheap go pioneer, if ur spending money then shop around... as far as the sub goes, theres a unit they sell at newcastle pro sound by some unknown company lol (cant remember brand), which is an 8" sub and and amp built into the same unit and it just slides underneath the seats. My mate bought one and it does the job nicley, very decent sound with decent bass because in his forester he could only fit like 4" speakers in the doors... he went MTX aswell for their bass output but still 4", thats why he bought the sub and amp unit and it works a treat.