NewKleer

i have the same setup and i have spiking. see my posts here. just use whatever diameter hose that fits over the boost controller ends nicely.

bigger is slightly better, whatever size u have currently is probably fine sure ur car isnt spiking to 10 in second? where did u get boost source from?

theoretically the non-ecu consult things still work, but ive never got any of them working. someone has mentioned that most software that supports them does the initialisation too quick for the other control units. most cars dont support the others. z32 and GTR support most, but for others its pretty pityful

pretty much said it already, but here's a rough update: 1) received 12 prototype boards. if no defects/errors in boards, then the final boards will be the same as these. already have a few minor perfections, nothing that effects the function or appearance (only ease of construction) 2) i can make 12 devices minus their enclosures (think i have all parts), probably this weekend. i may sell around 8 of these to those interested (can supply enclosure then when they are available). of course assuming the boards ive got have no errors or anything 3) one of these devices will be sent to to enclosure makers for them to begin making enclosures in about a week (regardless of whether theres any error in the boards, they dont need them working, just need them for sizing considerations). then in between 28-61 working days (6-10 weeks) the enclosures will be finished, and by then id have made a fair few devices ready for this. so an optimistic target may be end of june for mainstream ones to be ready. may be a slight increase to this time if they need to send me enclosure to verify its ok etc. prices are still looking to be around $200 max (including assembly/testing, enclosure, delivery), i will be trying my best to make these as affordable as possible, so i hope i can keep end price under this, but a few things have been out of my control (customs dutys, normal pcb manufacturers being unavailable). I of course need to make sure im not losing money too...

am i the only one that has any idea what you were saying here? the device is generic to be able to be used on all nissans, so even if specific stuff for the neo's existed (not aware of anything) then it wouldnt be used for non-neo owners. theres always room to move things around at a later date, but at this stage ill be focusing on the generic stuff applicable to all nissans. btw, if its not clear, this is whats on the display (see pic on page 1): line 1: speed, rpm, battery voltage, economy, injector duty cycle, ignition timing line 2: AAC %, o2 sensor, coolant temp, AFM, TPS

customs will take into account multiple packages over some period (not sure what the period is) to stop ppl splitting it up. only real way (legal way) to avoid it is to not spend over the threshold in a given time. might be a bit hard to get the place that sends it out to split it up even if i wanted to, as their ordering etc process is very fast/efficient and to a given standard. i guess i could find out if i can pay for. something i can look into anyway, but we're only talking about $4 per device added due to customs, so not a huge amount. i can just buy in lots of 10+ from now on for practically same cost, which is good as less money up front etc.

got 12 (2 free!) prototype boards delivered today. they look decent, some arent perfectly rectangular but we're only taking 0.5mm difference. wont have time to test any till wednesday. the two custom components on the board (buttons and switch) fit well so thats good.

but i guess the question is, would this be the sole reason for people getting spikes with this controller, or is it possible its malfunctioning in some way.

do u have a big fmic? i have the same problem, and i think its due to the intake manifold being a good distance from the turbo, and the time it takes the wastegate to see "new" pressure. say ur in first gear, and your boost is rising 2 psi every 0.1s. if it takes 0.1s for the air from the turbo to get to the intake manifold, then the intake (and hence wastegate) will see "max boost" 0.1s and hence 2 psi late (so 2 psi spike before wastegate opens). it wouldnt have happened on stock setup as the wastegate would open gradually before max boost - and its something these boost controllers do well is at say 5psi, the wastegate still sees 0, and at 7 it sees 7, for example - it has far less time to start opening (and hence why spoolup is quicker). and it probably doesnt happen in 4th gear as the boost rises so slowly that in the 0.1s it may only spike a fraction of a psi. does this sound right? solution (my guess): make boost source as close to turbo as possible, on the compressor housing if possible.

sorry i dont have any more consult kits - but check out all the threads, a lot of info in there

what boost source are you using?

reading some of the responses, i hope no one has been dialling up huge boost settings just "cause they can" with this boost controller (like any boost controller). everyone of course should only be setting it to an amount theyre pretty sure the engine will take without issues, otherwise this $35 investment might end up costing you much more than that if your not careful.

got other parts today, so as far as im aware im only waiting on the prototype pcb's to arrive to be able to put some test ones together (and send one off for enclosure manufacturing).

it wont be dual stage if u dont get the boost controller with it (well, unless u define dual stage as being stock + one alternative, rather than 2 alternatives and no stock boost)

or get what he's selling there and ull have dual stage (ie, put ur existing controller on the "stock boost" line). u see that pipe in the middle of that box thing, with that setup u would normally put a boost source directly there (and on the bottom of the boost controller), but if u put ur original boost controller there then u will have dual stage

thanks for the offer turboX - i dont want to however take any prepayments as its puts a bit more pressure on me to get them done in a reasonable timeframe. i havent seen a 10x4, but the aspect ratio wouldnt be good for something that u want to be slim so its not too tall to stop ur gauge view if you mount on steering column. 40x2 is good cause it can be mounted in many places without too many issues, and has enough character space to get all important sensor values out. im expecting shipment of the LCD's and a few other components to arrive today. then im waiting on the prototype boards (10), hopefully get them next week some time. from there ill be able to make 1 or 2 for my own testing, and when a final component shipment arrives in anywhere from 1-4 weeks from now, ill be able to get out maybe 6-7 prototypes, without enclosure. ill be sending one prototype to the enclosure place for them to make enclosure for it - roughly 6-8 weeks from then i should have enclosures, and be ready to start getting some final ones done. in the meantime i should have final pcb's and all other components ready for maybe 15 initial orders, then hopefully another 25 soon after. unfortunately i cant bring price down too much on components as its a double edge sword - if i go over 1000$ on a shipment, i get hit with 15-16% customs/import duty. but to buy certain things like LCD's in bulk, i need to go over $1000 to get reasonable prices. i still am estimating delivered cost of final thing to be $200 or below. costs (such as import duty/gst) keep piling up, so its hard to keep costs down. probably best to stop speculating till i have the enclosures done and have final costs of everything added up. im hoping the final software will include fault code checking and clearing of codes. and it should definitely include the integrated consult interface.

the novelty of blue wears off quickly once u realise how hard it is to see in daylight and on angles. but any standard sized (182x33.5mm) 40x2 module can go in. just this one im getting will be wide temp and very good viewing angles compared to most.

heres the prototype pcb that sits behind the lcd. the lcd "plugs" into the very left "rectangle" box on this thing (and thats the only connection to it, so replacing it will be easy). ill be getting this made soon for testing (about 5-10 of them), so fingers crossed i didnt make any mistakes. there are 3 buttons - the left one will be (whenever i add the functionality) the "command" button, and the next two will be the add/minus or up/down or whatever buttons. you can then see the switch roughly in middle, here you switch it to left to use the display like normal, or to the right to use it as a consult interface. theres also a lot of future expanability in the board (a lot of places i can wire other stuff in) so hopefully ill only ever need this one layout for anything i do will be ordering parts soon, and if the first prototype boards i get have no issues, then i can get a full batch done and get the enclosures made (roughly 6 weeks from then is when enclosures might be done).

yep, try use a normal bit of hose.

looks like someone stole ur r34, either that or u didnt post pics

its no longer a ram pod if its got persplex in front of it. its got the worst of both worlds - no forced air assisstance, and it still gets wet if its mount where its visible (as you would, so u can show it off of course )

if u wore shoes with holes in them, would your socks get wet when it rains? no different here they are purely for rice factor, it that isnt already bleedingly obvious. if your even considering them then you know the ricer inside of you is in control more than the logical minded skyline owner.

cool, glad u worked out what the problem is theres a link to donate via paypal on http://www.ecutalk.com/ cheers, Peter

this is the other one on ebay: http://search.ebay.com.au/_W0QQsassZsimark87QQhtZ-1 ask the jrdsports if he'd supply them to SAU members for $35 delivered? and if so how we should go about ordering? he hasnt sold a truckload on ebay as yet, so he might get a lot more interested if he gets all the SAU guys who are tired of waiting

there u go, two replies within a minute of each other which basically say the same thing - mark's customer service has become non-existant, whereas thus far jrdsports has been good, and if the product is as good, then to save hassles just buy it through him (via ebay - http://search.ebay.com.au/_W0QQsassZjrdsport)