NewKleer

no, jrdsports is the seller on ebay whos copied marks boost controller and selling them himself. having said that, ive ordered one via him to test out the communication/how quick its sent. he got money thurs, i received it on the next tues, so not too bad. replied to query about when it was sent within 24 hrs. unfortunately the original maker (mark/turbotech) has very bad service - while its good he came up with the controller, he simply is not the best option for purchasing them anymore (assuming jrd one is as good, ive yet to try). as evidenced by last few pages in this thread, many people are waiting for theirs to be delivered (eventually they are, but not too quickly), he seems to never reply to emails either.

turbosmart are a business, they want to make money people who know what they want, and make more off people who dont know what they need. u dont need a fuel cut defender unless ur getting fuel cut (sounds obvious doesnt it), it doesnt need to be a precationary thing. but if ur getting to the point where ur getting fuel cut, then u want to look at interceptors or other upgrades. but thats a seperate issue - if u want to go from stock boost to 10-11 psi, then get one of these.

something like this? http://www.pda-mart.com/p/10001140/HP-Jorn...r---B-Type.html i havent looked in to car mounts at this stage as i dont drive my car enough/long distances to use it

blacktown area. surprisingly the 540's i got were actually 547's, ie 32mb memory. 547's supposed to be same as 548 except 547 dont have USB cradle, however this even came with a USB cradle one had a slightly duller backlight so im shipping it off to warren when he sends me his address this one went for $30: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...me=STRK:MEWA:IT

if u mount in front of radiator, dont expect radiator to work as well. also dont forget that if rain needs to get in on a 45 deg angle to get in, that u dont need 45deg angled rain to do this - you only need you car to be moving forward at a decent speed your largest raindrops have a terminal velocity of about 30-35km/h - so to get rain to come in at a 45deg angle, you only need to be driving at that speed. your average light rain or drizzle is around the 15km/h mark, so again you only need to travel at that speed for the rain to be coming in at 45deg. travel twice the speed its now coming in on a 60deg angle - and quickly you see how easily it will be for water to get in there if its facing an open airflow from front of car

got the two jornada 540's today, tested both and they work pretty well suprisingly, given its only 133 mhz cpu. updates sensors about 1-3 times a second depending how many etc. basically its fast enough to be cool/useful. pretty happy. they can be picked up for as little as $40 on ebay (http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...item=9708012766). the racs_aus or whatever the seller is of that item regularly sells them.

did u try starting the app just to see that it works (that far at least)

need to have a draft pcb made for the enclosure to be done (so they can make sure everything fits). i hope to have it done by end of month. then maybe 1.5-2 months till enclosure is done, and at the same time id get final pcb and components ready. unfortunately due to enclosure costing more and having to get the pcb's done elsewhere to the normal place, current estimate is up around the 175 mark, however this shouldnt change much (and no chance of it going beyond 200). hardest thing is getting the time to get pcb done with work and uni being flatout. i just want time to stop for a week!

i gotta save some face after insisting it should work also would be good to find out how cheap a pda can be gotten to run it. the pda i got is pretty much the lowest spec ive come across (133mhz, 16mb) so it will be interesting. shouldnt count chickens just yet though, best learn from past failures will let u know when ive got them and whether they work or not.

we'll ill see if they work well first. if so, u can have one for the cost of postage, and ill only hold you to provide some good feedback/suggestions for future improvements u already have the null modem, all u would need for perm car setup would be to mount it somewhere, and get a car charger adaptor.

ive bought a couple cheap pocket pc 2000's off ebay, will see if they work with it, if so i can send one your way for you to try out

dont think that matters either

yes for */# dont think it matters what u do with the rest, maybe loop it between 2 holes on the soldenoid to make it looks a bit more "stock" or something

i doubt it matters if the solenoid isnt interfering with air going from turbo to wastegate.

depends if u removed the stock solenoid. ie, does ur boost source go from turbo->boost controller->wastrgate, or somewhere else on the way

read back on the previous page (post #770). stops wastegate staying open after ball is pushed back by spring after pressure drops

did u get free shippinmg? i thought they were $40 all up with shipping (29 or 29.99 + 9.99)

prob 1-1.5mm in diameter (which isnt as small as it sounds) you can blow air thru it. email mark and ask what happened with it and how u can replace it or whatever.

the hole is in between all that DRDRD or whatever writing on the back of housing. its purpose is for when you come off boost quickly, you will often have high pressure in the wastegate line (which when the ball is pushed back by the spring, means the air cant go back to the turbo or other boost source). the hole is so this air can come out, to allow respool to happen without the wastegate hanging open mark actually said earlier in this thread the hole helped reduce spike, which sounds way off the mark (pun intended ) - the hole should have no effect on spike, only on making sure the wastegate is shut to help boost rebuild after it drops below wastegate operation pressure. to reduce spike, you want to make sure the boost source for controller is as close to the turbo as possible...the further away it is, the longer till the wastegate sees an increase in pressure, and the more time pressure can increase even further whilst the wastegate is closed. the quicker spoolup times probably contribute to boost spike also, as you arent having the wastegate start to open sooner like you would with a bleed valve? (feel free to correct me if im wrong)

if you have a spare 1000$ to spend you could have mechanical actuators loosen the locknut, tighten the screw, and control it all from the comfort of the drivers seat.

mark commenting on them would be no different from any competitor commenting on another - theres no way they would say anything good about them. he says to "beware of imitations" on his ebay ads now, so he's aware of them. the controllers are a simple design, the housing, the pipes coming off it, the ball, the spring, and the hole in the back of the housing, the bolt and locknut. if you were to copy it, there isnt too much you could do wrong, but still would be room for error (with spring length/rate, and hole size) anyway, marks price to SAU people (not via ebay) is still less than the alternatives i think, so there is no reason for anyone from here to buy the alternatives

u need to turn it maybe a few mm in circumference of the bolt for each psi., ie if u give it a full turn from 10psi ull get like 20

open goes to ball, flat goes to bolt

last page someone posted his email. turbotech @ something

wastegates arent an exact on/off - they start to slowly open before their specified psi rating. bleed valve works like as if there is a little hole in the pipe from turbo to wastegate. it is subtracting a percentage of the air going from the turbo to wastegate, in order to lower the number that wastegate sees (the amount bled off does change depending on how much psi you have) a ball/spring creates an initial restriction. instead of subtracting a percentage of air, its providing an absolute restriction (that doesnt change depending on how much psi u have) mathematically, it would be somewhat like: bleed valve: real psi * bleed factor = wastegate psi (where factor < 1, eg 0.5) ball/spring: real psi - spring psi = wastegate psi (where we model spring as providing a resistance in terms of a specific psi) so say you have 7psi wastegate, you want 14 psi bleed valve: 14psi * 0.5 = 7psi (hence our factor for the bleed valve is 0.5, ie only half the air is getting to wastegate, other half is bled off) ball/spring: 14psi - 7psi = 7psi (hence our spring psi is 7). now, the reason its said to build faster can be seen when you apply those factors to when we are say, 3/4 way there (to 14psi). so lets say real psi is now 10: bleed valve: 10psi * 0.5 = 5psi seen at wastegate - it may start opening, hence slowing buildup to max ball/spring: 10psi - 7psi = 3psi seen at wastegate - wont start opening yet. so you can see, the wastegate will start to open (hence boost build up is slower) with a bleed valve as you approach the target psi. i should make it clear however, the ball/spring isnt a perfect "absolute" value, its more likely to be somewhere between whats been shown here and the bleed valve - but still for demonstration purposes, you can see why the ball/spring is theoretically superior. hope that helps