mabru

Nismo makes an aftermarket direct replacement bracket for 32's and 33's.

NP, during the RB26 cams in a RB20 fiasco I must've installed and removed the timing belt and cam gears a hundred times so I'm an expert now.

Wait, think I found them. http://www.finalkonnexion.co.jp/lineup/lin...eup_nissan.html Top left yellow R32 has the custom round lights. No prices though.

1. YES, tighten it based on what it auto adjust to. Ensure you hold it in place with a hex head wrench when torqueing it down. 2. Yes, the belt marks are a good way to line everything up. To give you an idea, last one I did we were a tooth off on the exhaust cam but couldn't really tell based on looking at the markings on the cam backing plate, but the belt told the tale. 3. No, because of the size difference between the cam and crank sprockets, the marks will move once you start rotating the assembly. Once you get everything setup and running, look at the marks again, they won't line up anymore.

Raw is usually higher (much higher) how it cals the monitored value I don't know. The SAFC2 has the same knock monitor and does the same thing. I just wanted to make sure you guys were referring to the displayed monitor value and not the etc, sensor check reading. As for a bump not causing bizzarre knock readings, it can, if the harness plug is loose it will jiggle over bumps causing wild knock readings then settle back down. Pull the plugs off, clean the connectors and reseat the plugs before worrying about replacing the sensors themselves.

Just so I make sure I'm on the same page as you guys, you are talking about the cal knock value. Not the raw value under sensor check? My general rule of thumb is don't let it get over 40 on stock internals. (cal value that is)

I'd be interested in a set of these, anyone know what/where/how much?

That's pretty much normal. I'm guessing you're using a normal O2 sensor? They only run 0-1v which isn't very accurate but most RB's will show rich above idle running standard management. Nissan ECU's tend to run rich which is one reason SAFC's and aftermarket ECU's show power improvements.

I would trade a set of projectors for the standard lights. I like the standard looks better.

I think the boxes are pretty much identical, but I would go with the GTST or better yet a GTR fuel pump. The non-LSD diff will work fine.

GTS and GTST axles are different, so if you swap to the GTST LSD you will need the shafts from the GTST as well. The GTST uses a 5 bolt star pattern for it's shafts, I can't remember what the GTS uses but I do remember they are different. Ran into this problem on a rearend swap once before. I'm not sure on the cluth plate sizes, I know of two different diameters, a 225mm and 240mm. I've seen both on RB20DETs and DEs. The 240mm seems to be more common and is the same diameter as the RB25DET. I 'think' (not sure mind you) that the DE used the 225 as this was the same diameter that the R31 RB20DET used. As long as you match the right flywheel with the right clutch diameter there should be no dramas, although the 225 might not hold up to a later model, more powerful RB20DET. I had one in my 89 and I could make it slip just by thinking about it.

Yeah, I basically wanted to confirm my suspicions, the problem with buying these damned cars is you never know what's been done to them in the past. This is an RB25DET R32 conversion car and has all sorts of goodies in it, the ecu won't do diag mode tho and doesn't even have the led in the window. I'm camming it and swapping to a new turbo in about 10 days so I'll just eyeball the cam gears and hold off until the swaps and see if I can get it back to normal timing. Thanks, -Matt

Please read the post, I did exactly that. The timing was measured at the number one plug via a high tension lead. It is accurate, and off by about 7 or 8 degrees.

I put a high tension lead in to check my timing and verified that my timing loop on the coil harness is off by 14 degrees. I set the timing to 15btdc like the FSM says and it ran like a pig, the motor also heated up quicker than normal (which sounds like retarded ignition to me). I put the light back on it and adjusted the CAS back to where the shadows from the bolts are (the original position) and it runs much better. The concern is that according to my timing light and 2 others my car is running 23 or 24 degrees btdc at normal operating temp. I don't hear any ping at all, and my SAFC is registering less than 70 at idle for the raw knock value. When I had it at 15btdc the exhaust note was quite different and basically ran like shit until about 4000rpm. Now it runs like it should but I'm still concerned and don't trust the damned thing now, I don't want to lose a cylinder or two. The only thing I can figure is that the exhaust cam is off by a tooth on the timing belt. IIRC the teeth are approx 7 degrees per. I looked under the front cover and it 'looked' like the cams were timed right in relation to 0 on the crank but now I'm not so sure. Anyone have any similar probs or ideas? Thanks, -Matt

This pump was fine for quite a while, it's only recently that it started dropping pressure, and it's intermittant. I'll swap them out and see if my problems fade.

I've got a spare HKS pump, guess it's good I still have it

My RB25DET has an adjustable FPR on it and a walbro fuel pump. I've noticed a loss of power throughout the rev range lately. I checked all the sensors, checked base timing, put brand new iridiums in it, and I'm running splitfire coilpacks. I checked the fuel pressure at idle with and without vacuum and they seem ok. Sometimes while I'm watching the fuel pressure gauge I'll see it dip a few PSI slowly but surely and occasionally I have to readjust the FPR to compensate. I've done a few of these adjustments in the last few days. Basically what I'm wondering is if my fuel pump is on it's way out? -Matt

I'm wary of gapping iridiums, I thought it was really easy to destroy them by doing so. I would love to gap mine down but at the price I paid for them I really don't want to ruin them. -Matt

Correct, because the part numbers for a majority of the internals are the same between the GTR box and the 25DET box.

One of the bearings inside the CAS is shot. I had to check my timing belt one weekend and yanked off my CAS. I happened to spin it and it sounded like little rocks were inside when it turned. -Matt

That's what I thought, I realize it has and uses a hot wire AFM but I wasn't sure if the ECU was reading pressure in order to control the boost solenoid. The reason I ask is that I had issues running the FCD and SAFC on the AFM quality signal, they were wired in tandem and I think the signal was being weakened enough that I was getting no AFM signal at the ECU. I pulled the FCD out and all works but have recently hit fuel cut and want it back in. Cheers

Would the "MAP sensor" on an RB25DET be labelled as "Boost Control Solenoid Signal" on the ECU pinout? I want to properly install my FCD and I'm trying to figure out which signal to intercept. I'm assuming that the ECU reads the stock MAP off of the boost sensor to determine the boost mode. Cheers

This sounds eerily similar to my RB20 with 26 cams experience. The car would not idle without having your foot hovering over the gas pedal. Sounded mean as hell but in the end was not good for a daily driver, since I didn't have aftermarket management I canned the idea and put the cams on the shelf for a while. -Matt

If yanking it off won't work, you'll have to beg borrow or steal a steering wheel puller. Sometimes brute force just won't cut it.

The bearing on my RB25DET CAS was toast, so I took the CAS off of the RB20DET I happen to have sitting around. My question is are there any mechanical/electrical differences between the two? My RB25DET does not run right at the normal base timing anymore at all. I had to advance the hell out of it (with no knock mind you) just to get it to run correctly. Can anyone shed some light on my timing issue? It runs great, it's just a little disconcerting to put a timing light on it and see 27 degrees base when I know it should be closer to 15. Thanks, -Matt