mabru

To add a little more to this, the TPS voltage should be approx 0.5volts with the throttle closed. Moving it just a millimeter will change this value by quite a bit so test it, move it, test it, move it. Check base timing since advance equals faster idle. As said before, clean the AAC out. If all these things checkout and the idle is still high, simply adjust the idle speed and back it down a bit. Unplug the AAC and turn the screw on the side clockwise. My 2c -Matt

Hehe, I can almost guarantee which one is leaking, it will be the thermo housing to intake manifold coolant line. the small steel nipple coming out of the engine block rusts out and pisses coolant on the ground. If you're lucky you can cover the hole with a longer hose and double hose clamp the little bastard. And replace every single hose underneath the manifold while you have it torn down. It doesn't take very long and is worth the piece of mind. -Matt

Ok, even if you get an internally gated garrett turbine housing it will NOT have the proprietary Nissan 6 bolt exhaust flange that bolts to the downpipe. You will still need to get a special downpipe made up to bolt to the turbine outlet. Not trying to rain on your parade, just warning you. I have a T04E/T3 hybrid waiting to go on my RB25DET because I had to order a flange to fit and have a pipe welded up. The T3 internal gate housings usually have a 5 bolt or 3 bolt exhaust flange pattern and don't come close to being bolt-ons. -Matt

I actually lean mine out a little bit across the board using the SAFC, they do run a bit rich stock. I only drop like 2% or so and it still sits a little rich on the AFR gauge. My old RB20 had the same issue only worse, smelled like a gas station behind it.

My chassis is a non-Mspec, the steering wheel was different, the meters have black backgrounds (not dark blue), the seats are different, had a different front bar, and it didn't have a VLSD. -Matt

Tomei makes a sump baffle for the RB26, not sure if it will fit the 25. I know I saw it in their online catalog. -Matt

I don't remember the exact number the SAFC uses to id the Z32 AFM. I know it's as easy as saying "HW4 in HW1 out" or something like that. Of course you will need to adjust your fuel map accordingly, but the SAFC will allow plug n' play operation of a Z32 AFM. Again, I'd have to dig up the documentation to find the specific codes to use. -Matt

I'm not 100% sure but I think the intent of the coolant passages in intake manifolds are to actually raise the temp of the intake charge during cold start.

There is a gadget called the fuel pump control modulator FPCM which is basically a switching unit. You can bypass it by grounding the fuel pump straight to the inside of the boot. There have been many threads on this, the FPCM is the culprit sometimes when you're coasting and pop the clutch and the car stalls out for no reason at all. Sometimes it's not fast enough to catch up when you drop into neutral.

You still need the Japanese font pack to read the english SAFC manual.

GTST is right, it won't run with the loom in place. You will have to unplug the AFM wires of the loom and reconnect the bullet connectors so that the ECU will see the AFM again. Then it will run fine. -Matt

No, I had mine unplugged ready to go into another skyline for about 3 weeks. When I installed it in the other car, BAM!, everything was the same. -Matt

As stated elsewhere in this thread, either a crappy AAC valve or Fuel Pump Control Modulator -Matt

Anything with more than 3 screws on them lol, I've heard horror stories of the 3-bolt HKS ones slipping. -Matt

After failing at this conversion myself, I asked a friend of mine who runs a shop here ( he works on RB's constantly, skylines are like ****roaches in Japan). He says that they'll work but you NEED adjustable gears on both sides to time them right. I, of course did not have adjustable gears when I attempted it. I had mine idling well for a little while, but we discovered that the exhaust cam was about a tooth off and there was no power above the mid-range. It did sound mean as hell while they were in hehe. -Matt

A few friends and I have done a few skyline manual conversions now and that stupid bushing is the only thing that slows the process down! During the last conversion we did we just broke down and purchased a blind bushing puller, it was a little costly but it also took all of 10 seconds to get the bushing out. If you think you'll ever do another conversion I highly recommend buying the correct tool, it can save many headaches. -Matt

I have to point out that there is a slight difference between the R33 Vspec exhaust cam and the R32 GTR exhaust cam, the lobe center angle on the R33 is 120 degrees (same as the RB20det) and the R32 is 125 degrees. I'm not saying that's why they worked so easily but it would help explain the near-stock idle qualities. -Matt

Great, please try and find out what they do to get the damned things to idle! I'm dying to put these things in again but I'm a little gun shy since my last attempt. -Matt

My car exhibited the same exact symptoms that BBenny's did. It simply would not idle. Since that little experiment I've discovered a couple problems that definately contributed to my problems. The cam swap forced me to basically troubleshoot my entire car and perform some routine maintenance that I had been neglecting. I found the AFM harness was loose and brittle, I re-grounded the igniter box, my 02 sensor was fried which was fouling my plugs pretty badly so they too were replaced. The car runs much better now than it did before the cam swap attempt. I'm going to invest in a set of adjustable gears and give it another go in a couple weeks. I'm very interested in anyone elses progress with this swap. -Matt :boobies2:

I was just looking at Tomei's site and saw that they have all their cam specs listed and alongside each cam it has "adjustable sprocket starting angle" listed. Am I correct in assuming that you 'need' to have adjustable cam gears to use their cams? If so, this would point out the problem that Bbenny and I had. -Matt

Well I'm pretty sure the management at low rpm is the issue since my seemed to run ok above 3000rpm. -Matt

I'm pretty sure all my cam brackets went on the way they came off and I did not see any markings on them (are there any?) The strange thing is that when we first started the car after the install of the RB26 cams it actually DID idle. On the drive home is when it started to freak out and during that time I popped off an intercooler pipe. I'm thinking it's the ECU. I still don't understand how Tomei, HKS, etc.. are able to run if the RB26's won't. I mean afterall the RB26 cams are really quite similar with higher lift. If someone with the standard ECU gets this to work, please enlighten us. -Matt

I'd check the usual suspects, AFM/connecter, AAC/connecter, or fuel delivery ie. fuel filter/pump. Definately run an ECU diagnostic, I know it's an intermittent problem but you never know. -Matt

Hehe, My car has been sitting too long for my tastes and I've been getting lots of static from the wife about how "everytime you buy something, that car doesn't run afterwards." I'll go back to the RB26 cams in a bit, but I think I'll get some adj. cam gears and get an ECU remap first. -Matt

This is my final update on this subject for a while. The car is back together with the original cams in it and it started, idled, and ran fine like nothing ever happened. -Matt