mambastu

Anyone ?

Hi all, I've already done a search for this but couldn't find that much on the subject. How feasible is it to adapt the RB26DETT turbo setup onto the RB25DET and how much power will the standard twin turbo setup allow ? I'm aiming for around 450bhp at the flywheel and I've been offered a complete GTR twin setup for a reasonable price, about a 1/3 the price of the manifold I'd need for a GT30 setup so its quite tempting. What difficulties need to be overcome to get them to fit ? I've read that the exhaust manifolds have a different stud pattern which I think I can overcome either by re-welding the flanges or by getting a spacer plate fabricated but are the exhaust ports the same shape on the RB26 and the RB25 ? Does anyone know if the block feeds are in the same place for the water and oil lines ?

Great, thanks a lot

So your clutch is a single plate ?

Hi, I've been looking at OS Giken twin plate clutches on the Greenline site. They list the TS2B, the TS2BD and the TS2CD http://www.greenline.jp/catalogue/b...=R33B&intake=FI I've found a little bit of info on other sites and I think the 'D' in the part number stands for damper which presumably means the plates are sprung and I've heard that there are two versions, one rated at 500bhp and the other rated at 600bhp. I've also heard that some of them come with a steel cover and some with an aluminium cover. Soooo.....can anyone tell me the specs of each clutch and what would be the disadvantage of the 600bhp version (if it does exist) over the 500bhp version ? i.e heavier action, less streetable etc. I'm aiming for around 450 bhp at the flywheel so I'm thinking the 500bhp aluminium cover clutch would be the kiddie, but which one is it ?

Hi, I've been looking at OS Giken twin plate clutches on the Greenline site. They list the TS2B, the TS2BD and the TS2CD http://www.greenline.jp/catalogue/bcpartli...=R33B&intake=FI Can anyone tell me what difference there is between the clutches i.e sprung plate etc .

Combustion chambers...... All combustion chambers were smoothed and polished thoroughly to reduce the likelihood of detonation and also to slow carbon buildup. The combustion chamber shape has not been changed at all so compression ratio should be unnaffected.

Standard inlet port.... Finished inlet ports.... From the combustion chamber side.... The inlet ports are very well shaped in standard form and have 3 angle seats as standard. Inlet ports were all enlarged to the inlet gasket. The area where the valve seat meets the bowl was blended smoothly and all port casting marks were removed. The divider was knife edged and the ports were finished using an 80 grit sanding roll to promote good fuel/air mixing.

The original exhaust port showing the intrusive port bumps The finished exhaust ports.... From the combustion chamber side.... All of the intrusive exhaust port bumps were removed the ports were enlarged to the exhaust manifold gasket. All casting marks were removed. The divider was knife edged and the valve seat area was blended into the bowl. The 'short' side of the port was radiused as there is a fairly sharp edge where the port turns into the bowl area. The exhaust ports were finished with a finely polished shiney surface to slow carbon build up.

Its a Fuji S602 camera I think, its not mine its a mates. I just edited the thread with a load of pictures and a description of what I did but its been rejected .......I'll do them as seperate posts.

Finished the head now and pictures will follow shortly. The porting was all done using a cheap air powered die grinder and a Standard Abrasives porting kit. Took me 3 days to do it but I reckon I could do one in 1.5 days now I know the areas to concentrate on. Hope this information is useful to everybody

I'll be interested to see the exhaust ports I've just ported my RB25DET head but apart from a bit of smoothing and polishing I left the the combustion chambers alone. I wonder how much benefit there is from de-shrouding the valves ?

and me

Hi All, Head portings going well if slowly I've been told that you should use an 80 grit sander for the final finish on the inlet port to promote fuel/air mixing but it looks a bit rough to me. Does anyone know if thats the correct finish for aluminium ?

Hi all, I've just stripped my RB25 and will be porting the head on it tomorrow. After a quick look at the ports I've noticed there are large 'bumps' just inside the exhaust port, next to the manifold flange. It looks like they are there to add strength to the manifold stud area but they're pretty intrusive. Does anyone know if they can be removed safely ?

Its not an easy conversion and I don't believe anyones done it in the UK. I'm a bit of a CA fan too be honest In the UK, the 180SX (200SX here) only came with the CA so we have a number of well developed CA powered cars over here. Norris Designs built a 540bhp car and there are a few 450hp to 500hp cars driving about. Its quite a revvy engine compared to the SR and its only real weakness seems to be that the big-end bearings commonly fail between 80,000 and 100,000 miles. As far as the headgaskets go....I run mine at 21/22 psi on a standard gasket and I've never had any problems

No, I believe there are SR20's in Japan producing in excess of 800hp whereas I've never heard of a CA producing much more than 600hp. Mind you the SR's producing that sort of power have been stroked to 2.2 whereas the CA's are only upto 1950cc or less. The CA is a tough little engine though and technologically more advanced than the SR. Its more compact and weighs 20 kgs less despite having an iron block compared to the SR's aluminium block. I've just started the process of fitting an RB25 to my 180SX (with 320hp CA) and looking at the RB25 I can't help but think its really a 6 pot CA.......or should that be the CA is just a 4 pot RB Either way they're incredibly similar

Yes he is fos. CA pistons need replacing at around 350hp and the rods at around 400hp. He's also need a big turbo - TD06 20G or larger.