mambastu

I'd be interested if they could ship one to the UK ?

Thats great, thanks for confirming

Hi all, I recently ordered some CP RB30\26 9.0 to 1 CR 86.5mm pistons and when they arrived I was surprised to find that they don't have any valve reliefs cut into them. Is that correct ? Bit worried as I'll be using 10.8mm lift Kelford Cams with them. The build sheet is : http://img861.imageshack.us/i/cppistonsspecs.jpg/ Heres a picture of the pistons : http://img853.imageshack.us/i/cppistonspics.jpg/

The standard colours were: KH2 - Gun Grey Metallic KG1 - Jet Silver Metallic TH1 - Dark Blue Pearl AH3 - Red Pearl Metallic 732 - Black Pearl Metallic 326 - Cristal White KL0 - Spark Silver Metallic BL0 - Greyish Blue Pearl (special order) AN0 - Wine Red I started a thread on GTROC with a Poll for R32 colour distribution in the UK and it can be found at http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/109127-r32-gtr-colours-present-past-uk.html In summary, in the UK KH2 is the most numerous followed by 732. The rarest in the UK are KG1, AH3 and BL0. I've heard that there were only 280ish TH1 - Blue pearl cars built but I think that the BL0 may actually be the rarest colour but don't have any figures to back that up unfortunately. I'd love to know the official figures.

They're not very big, 55mm ID. I have some custom dumps that RIPS made me a few years ago and they're 60mm ID. Tomeis are the way to go.

Did you fix the problem at all ? I have a similar starting problem on my R32GTR. So far I've tried : New battery New plugs New fuel filter New 044 pump New adjustable pressure reg Another ECU Another set of coils Another CAS Cleaned AFM's The car now generally starts after a couple of seconds of cranking but if you stall it within a few minutes of startup it won't re-start. To get it to start after a stall I've found the best method is : Pull the fuel pump fuse Crank for a few seconds Replace fuse Crank again and then it generally starts ok. The car idles at about 1000 rpm when warm nd there are no error codes on the ECU. Annoying problem

Do-luck I reckon http://www.do-luck.co.uk/do-luck_fsb.htm

I have a 420ish bhp RB25DETT in a RS13 which I built a few years ago. Very linear power delivery. Used R32 GTR standard turbos. Spools about 250rpm faster than my R32GTR and produces better power. The only thing I prefer over the RB25 is the RB26's throttle response which is better but the 25 spooled earlier and generally felt more zippy which I attributed to the the NVCS and higher compression. Change the pistons though, my number 1 piston broke up after two years/30,000 miles of being hammered.

As has already been said the FPR controls pressure so if you stick an 044 in there and pressure goes up then change the FPR. Nissan FPR's seem to get weak with age. Seen it on CA's/SR's/RB25's and RB26's. Incidentally someone mentioned that they thought RB25 and RB26 FPR's were probably the same but RB26's run 3 bar base pressure whereas 25's run 2.5 bar like CA's and SR's.

You need to look at the chart at the bottom of this link : http://www.tomei-p.co.jp/_2003web-catalogu...m_RB25.html#pro It shows that you can't use Procams with NVCS and you need stiffer springs and the solid lifter/shim conversion.

Sounds like a air leak in one of the inlet pipes after the turbos to me. Worth checking that all your flexible pipes are on properly and the clips are done up tight.

More like 265 rwkw. It was dynoed at 352rwhp with its road use Blitz NUR on it. On track as I mentioned I have to replace the rear box with a larger and more restrictive 3" box and you can really the difference. The spec is R33 RB25DET with ported head, twin turbo conversion using standard GTR turbos at 1 bar, 2.5" downpipes, 3" system, no cat. GReddy plenum, 550's, E-manage, R34 GTR intercooler, 3" pipework between turbos and throttlebody. The point I was trying to make is that by sticking an RB in the front it doesn't turn the car into an understeering pig of a thing like so many people say it will. You can see on the video that the car was able to turn in fine. As Paul f has pointed out, the power delivery is so smooth with a 400/450 hp RB25/26 when compared to a 400/450 hp CA or SR which really helps with getting the power down out of corners. Much more predictable.

Although it has a better front/rear split in standard form than a S14 I have a RS13 with a 25DETT in the front and although I don't drift it I do use it on the odd trackday and its very balanced and in no way understeery when wheeled/tyred adequately and set up properly. Its sister car still has a CA and runs the same suspension and in comparison the RB powered car is actually more planted and turns in better on track. Heres a little vid from Brands Hatch from a couple of years ago: http://mambastu.mysite.wanadoo-members.co...._RB25_400TT.mpg The car was running with a restrictive exhaust to get it quiet enough to run on the day so estimate around 380bhp on the day, I believe that Ferrari 355's are supposed to handle reasonably well...

I have one of these currently but will be taking it out to fit to another engine so I'd like to check it for wear and replace the friction plates if necessary. Does anyone know the friction plate minimum thickness and replacement part numbers for the friction plates at all ?

The standard ECU rev limit is 6800 on the 25, are you sure that you have raised it ok ?

the Ross RB25/30 damper is 3.5kgs, not sure how that compares to a standard RB25 or RB26 pulley ?

I think you'll find this is very dependent on the material of the manifold, the coating type and how the manifold is prepared prior to treatment. I have seen stainless steel manifolds that haven't been prepared correctly have issues with flaking. I have used Techline black satin exhaust coatings on my GTR cast manifolds, turbine housings and stainless steel dump pipes and it didn't flake at all even after 3 years of use. The pipework still emits a shed-load of heat so on my new build I will lag the stainless manifolds and dump pipes and ceramic coat the turbin housings. I think I'll also probably also use a coating on the inlet pipework to reduce maintenance (i.e polishing !) and help reduce inlet temperatures. Theres quite a lot of info on http://www.techlinecoatings.com/ about coating types, methods etc.

Ah, thats actually my cylinder head from another thread 3 years ago. The heads still going strong Heres a few more pictures if it helps :

I've removed then on my 25 head and haven't had any problems. 26 heads also have them and they're commonly removed when porting.

You can use a GTR type rail or the 25's side feed rail on the GReddy plenum. I use a R33 GTR standard rail with RX injectors on mine.

SR's a ghastly designed cheaply made bag of characterless sounding tat but it is undoubtedly torquey. I personally wouldn't pick a SR over a CA for a road/track car and I personally prefer the RB25/26 in a S13 to either of them. Re: the RS13 with a RB handling comments. We get this all the time on the UK SXOC. "The weight distribution is all wrong blah blah". Haven't cornerweighted my own car yet but I have seen cornerweight figures from another RB25 powered RS13 and although overall weight is obviously up weight distribution-wise they have a very similar f/r split to a S14 with a SR20DET. They actually handle very well but theres definitely a wrong way and a right way to build them and set them up. I've been lucky enough to compare mine to a few others over here and the difference in handling was very noticeable. When set up properly a RB up front actually adds some much needed feel to the steering and improves front end grip. Mine is noticeably less understeerey in the wet and dry on road and track than its identically suspensioned CA-powered sister car. IMHO the RB really suits the 13, shame Nissan didn't have the balls to do one themselves.

This will help you if someone can translate ? http://www.oguraclutch.co.jp/orc/pdf/orc20...e&fluid.pdf From the above PDF can anyone see if it mentions the friction plate minimum thickness is and also what the part numbers are for replacement friction discs on the ORC 709D

This sounds like turbo 'shuffle' to me. Its quite common on poorly setup GTR's and its nothing to do with blow off valves. Its a problem you can experience with twin parallel turbo arrangements. You should be able to cure it completely on the 2860-5's/2530 sizes turbos as previously mentioned but the problem becomes more pronounced and more difficult to eradicate on larger twins like the GT-RS/2860-10. The problem can be caused by exhaust gas flow differences between the turbos causing the turbos to spool at different rates. This can be corrected by tuning to some degree and also a move to a pair of exhaust manifolds with a 'bridge' pipe like the ones HKS do. Apparently ditching the standard 'Twin Turbo' common top pipe for a hard pipe kit which has longer seperated pipes for each compressor outlet can also help reduce the the problem. I experienced this on my RB25DETT when I first converted it to twin turbos. I had the luxury of three boost gauges on the car, one on the outlet of each of the turbos and one at the plenum. From the gauges you could see that one of the turbos was boosting slightly faster than the other one. When the 'chuffing' occurred you could see the turbo outlet gauges flicking in time with the 'chuff'. Adjusted the actuator slightly on the 'lazy' turbo which instantly improved matters and then spent further time mapping the car which eradicated the problem entirely. There are a few threads about this problem on GTROC.

I've been running a 709D on my RB25 for about 2.5 years now. Light and very well made. Hooks up very well. I'm using a standard RB25 slave cylinder on mine and the pedal pressure feels similar to a standard clutch.

I'd be interested to see them Geoff. Out of interest, which length mufflers did you use and have you had your car noise tested at all ?